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**WoodFloorist** · 03-02-2012, 05:41 PM

I would start on the dining room wall on the far left of the picture. You are going to have one place where you are going to have to click it backwards by the kitchen. You will be able to move the piano to the far right and carefully move it onto the floor and continue installing.

zubby01 · 03-02-2012, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WoodFloorist

I would start on the dining room wall on the far left of the picture. You are going to have one place where you are going to have to click it backwards by the kitchen. You will be able to move the piano to the far right and carefully move it onto the floor and continue installing.

Can you explain what you mean by click it backwards and where?

**WoodFloorist** · 03-04-2012, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zubby01

Can you explain what you mean by click it backwards and where?

Sure. In the picture below you will see the place where you will need to either click backwards or figure out what the rip is going to be along the kitchen wall and bring both sides of this small wall out together to the point where it says "when you get here"and hope they meet.

**Ernesto** · 03-05-2012, 01:04 AM

You can start on the longest wall to the right and not click backwards at all.

**Polestretch** · 03-05-2012, 01:12 AM

I do quite a bit of laminate, and do not find it hard to click backwards at all. Now with that being said, I almost always installing Pergo.

**WoodFloorist** · 03-05-2012, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ernesto

You can start on the longest wall to the right and not click backwards at all.

If my picture was of the complete job I would agree with you but it is only part of the area to be installed. Look at post #9 of this thread to see the whole job. I see no longest wall on the right.

I agree with Polestretch that clicking backwards isn't hard but is a consideration to answer zubby's question.

**Ernesto** · 03-06-2012, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WoodFloorist

If my picture was of the complete job I would agree with you but it is only part of the area to be installed. Look at post #9 of this thread to see the whole job. I see no longest wall on the right.

.

Oh I see, your post cut off the room. I like to start off outside walls which are generally the straightest but you need to check it against all walls and especially hallways. Hallways usually dictate since it can be so obvious if your running crooked.

zubby01 · 03-06-2012, 02:58 PM

Thank you all for your help.

How do I glue down a transition? What glue do I use? Do I glue it to the wood at all or just the concrete and let the floor ride up underneath it? I'll be going from wood to tile and wood to carpet.

The type of flooring I bought is a click together. When I install the underlayment first, do I ride it up the wall (baseboards) a little bit or just cut it to touch the bottom of the baseboards?

When I install the quarter rounds, how 'flush' do I make them against the top of the floor? Do they server any purpose in 'holding the floor down'? In other words, do I kind of press down on the floor when installing them or just make sure they are laying on top of the floor?

Part of my install includes a half moon fireplace. The wood will be going underneath the stone on the fireplace. There won't be a quarter round or trim to kind of hold the floor in place under the fireplace - any consideration there?

Is it worth purchasing an electric jamb saw? What's an inexpensive one that should work?

flooringforum12 · 03-06-2012, 08:59 PM

I can relate. I am a little bit new in the industry and that is why a forum like this is very helpful... thanks to TNT and everyone else who has been generous with information.

**TNT** · 03-07-2012, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zubby01

Thank you all for your help.

How do I glue down a transition? What glue do I use? Do I glue it to the wood at all or just the concrete and let the floor ride up underneath it? I'll be going from wood to tile and wood to carpet.

The type of flooring I bought is a click together. When I install the underlayment first, do I ride it up the wall (baseboards) a little bit or just cut it to touch the bottom of the baseboards?

When I install the quarter rounds, how 'flush' do I make them against the top of the floor? Do they server any purpose in 'holding the floor down'? In other words, do I kind of press down on the floor when installing them or just make sure they are laying on top of the floor?

Part of my install includes a half moon fireplace. The wood will be going underneath the stone on the fireplace. There won't be a quarter round or trim to kind of hold the floor in place under the fireplace - any consideration there?

Is it worth purchasing an electric jamb saw? What's an inexpensive one that should work?

To put down a transition on concrete, consider Johnsonite's Power Tape, it's some good stuff. No, don't ride the underlayment up, keep it a bit back from the edge. You should brad-nail the quarter round into the baseboard, not the floor. The purpose of it is not to "hold the floor down", but to cover the gap for expansion and contraction. It can be close to the flooring, but not super tight. In your situation of a stone fireplace, an electric jamb saw is probably the only option. The ones that looks like a hand saw would not work on stone.

Hope this helps!
Tia