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Old 08-01-2017, 04:14 PM   #1
highup
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Default Coretec trims

I was asked to fix a trim that had come loose. It's a T molding between tile and Coretec. Installer glued the upper lip of the T-mold to the tile with a small bead of silicone and it's coming loose.
I had the shop order anther piece of trim and here's my plan. I'm gonna build a little wedge out of wood to mount the track. Only trick I see is making the wedge the right height so the track inserts deep enough to do it's job. I can drive paneling nails down inside the center rails of the track to hold it in place.
Coretec has a T-mold and a reducer style that use tracks. The tracks have zero provisions for unusual height differences. The reducer style sets too tall for this transition height change and the T-mold sets at an angle, which isn't ideal either. Still, it will probably work better than the silicone goobers that are holding the trim in place right now. Maybe I can add some silicone "goobers" on the tile side for some additional stability.


File Type: jpg Coretec wedge.jpg (29.7 KB, 24 views)
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:54 PM   #2
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Can you do it with a wood shingle for the ramp?

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Old 08-02-2017, 01:51 AM   #3
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Pull apart the floor about six or ten feet back and patch it at a gradient per the mans specs, Then it will fit flat.
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Old 08-02-2017, 04:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarisMulkin View Post
Can you do it with a wood shingle for the ramp?

Daris
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Originally Posted by Ernesto View Post
Pull apart the floor about six or ten feet back and patch it at a gradient per the mans specs, Then it will fit flat.
I'd have to disassemble a 12' by 20'+ room and there's a hallway that begins 4 or 5 feet away from the edge. The planks run perpendicular to the trim. That said, I'd have to ramp up to a hallway doorway that has a bedroom, so the bedroom would also have to be raised to the level of the kitchen tile area....................... so it ain't gonna happen. It's getting the T-molding.
Tile edge isn't cut straight, so I can't butt a different type of molding to the tile.
Ideally, I suppose, they could have layed 3/8 inch underlayment in the entire upstairs of the home. That would have made the top stair 3/8 of an inch taller than the rest. This job, I suppose could have been ramped up another 1/8 or possibly 3/16 which would have helped. Too late for that now.
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Old 08-02-2017, 04:52 AM   #5
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My drawing isn't to scale. The tile is 5/8, or possibly 11/16th tall. The coretec is 1/4" Ish? . Couldn't tell because the current T molding is mostly adhered and I didn't want to pull it loose until a new trim was ordered. It's come loose in the place where they walk.
This isn't remotely to scale either, but maybe it makes my description or excuses easier to understand.
File Type: jpg Layout 700.jpg (29.7 KB, 26 views)
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Old 08-11-2017, 09:14 AM   #6
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Recently I had an issue with a coretec stair nose falling off. I called there tec # and asked how they recommended there stair nose be adhered. They said to rough up the back side of the stair nose ( which I have done, even though I have never seen that in their installation instructions) then she said to use PL Premium ( urethane construction adhesive) in an "S" pattern,
and to apply weight for 48 hours And that Painters tape will not work.
Also I mentioned if the planks are installed parallel to the stair nose the planks can sometimes be lifted and and disengage.
She said the last row , regardless of the direction should be glued with their adhesive. I asked about the floating floor being locked down in that area and she said the floor is stable and the expansion is just for expansion of the homes walls .
I have nailed down a 3/4" scrap strip of the flooring at the stair nose and left a slight expansion with the floor, thinking the stair nose would not lift.
Also I mentioned how a lot of times we go from LVP to ceramic or other flooring with a slightly different height. I have had good luck using a "T" molding with a heavy bead of silicone.She said if you can not use their track they recommend another a different type of transition,what ... metal??
Just thought I would pass this along
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Old 08-11-2017, 03:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Monfils View Post
Recently I had an issue with a coretec stair nose falling off. I called there tec # and asked how they recommended there stair nose be adhered. They said to rough up the back side of the stair nose ( which I have done, even though I have never seen that in their installation instructions) then she said to use PL Premium ( urethane construction adhesive) in an "S" pattern,
and to apply weight for 48 hours And that Painters tape will not work.
Also I mentioned if the planks are installed parallel to the stair nose the planks can sometimes be lifted and and disengage.
She said the last row , regardless of the direction should be glued with their adhesive. I asked about the floating floor being locked down in that area and she said the floor is stable and the expansion is just for expansion of the homes walls .
I have nailed down a 3/4" scrap strip of the flooring at the stair nose and left a slight expansion with the floor, thinking the stair nose would not lift.
Also I mentioned how a lot of times we go from LVP to ceramic or other flooring with a slightly different height. I have had good luck using a "T" molding with a heavy bead of silicone.She said if you can not use their track they recommend another a different type of transition,what ... metal??
Just thought I would pass this along
You're talking about filling the gap between the two different materials and shoving the T-mold into the silicone, right?

On the nose, the gap you mentioned is sorta like this drawing?

I've only done a couple of Cortec installs and a few other transition fixes. I've always sanded the material too. On my first job, I even drilled 1/8" holes into the floor side of the threshold trim and used urethane adhesive to hold it down.
I may have been doing this all wrong with the threshold trims. Are you supposed to adhere the lip edge of the trim directly to the Coretec or only to the floor? I don't recall the instructions being very descriptive on the "how to" part of installing the trims that are glued down.
I thought the trim lip was like other laminate type floors and is made the way it is to allow the flooring to expand or contract under the molding.... meaning the molding is only attached to the floor, not to the flooring itself.
File Type: jpg Dons gap idea.JPG (9.2 KB, 20 views)
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Old 08-12-2017, 09:22 AM   #8
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Yes, that's the way I have done the T molding where I couldn't use their track ( not approved by core tec)

On the stair nose , yes also . This is how I have done it in the past. That's a nice illustration, better then my explanation.
For now on I will just fully glue the last board(s) at a stair nose.
ImageUploadedByFlooring Forum1502529753.014471.jpg
I wasn't talking about installing core tec on steps , just where a floor or a landing meets a stairway . ( if that makes sense.)
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Old 08-12-2017, 03:21 PM   #9
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I knew you were talking about a single edge trim. I've done what I showed in my little sketch using wood as the piece to glue too in different scenarios, sometimes even making it possible to use clamp down metal onto materials like this, but you need to have the height dead on so it still allows movement but without showing a gap between the clampdown and the other finished surface that it overlaps.
I never knew this particular installation PDF existed. Funny how the side by side images are Cortec versus other types of flooring are totally different. In the upper page of the PDF, look at the stair nose and how it's supposed to be glued to the existing nose......... the profile showing where the glue is put onto the nose doesn't even slightly resemble the actual Cortec nose shape. The Cortec nose shape leaves a huge gap in most instances. Using that gluing method, a tube of adhesive would only do a few steps.
https://www.rubberflooringinc.com/As...stallation.pdf
...and their mention of using finish nails or adhesive on the baby threshold? Finish nails would look like crap on that molding.

Here's that Hillway molding tape mentioned in the PDF.
http://www.1877floorguy.com/hilway-d...ding-tape.html
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Last edited by highup; 08-12-2017 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 08-13-2017, 12:06 AM   #10
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That Boa tape was the strongest tape i ever used ..
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