Up your game

[highup]

He doesn't mention it, but I added a comment to him to suggest feeling the void under the nose with epoxy like they do for rubber stair treads.
Very interesting.
You are definitely want to set up a jig with spacers to speed up the groove cutting.

 

[C.J.]

What do you suppose one would charge for that custom work.

 

[Mark Brown]

That's how I make them. It's 65 dollars a nosing. Takes about 40 min to manufacture.

 

[Mark Brown]

Ok, I watched more of his video. I dont wrap them over nosings, I build then around a 1x1 piece of wood for a solid core.

 

[Mark Brown]

This is the last set I did. Don't mind the snow on there, manufactured on site due to time constraints.

 

[highup]

Ok, I watched more of his video. I dont wrap them over nosings, I build then around a 1x1 piece of wood for a solid core.

So you still cut off the existing nosing?
I've never heard of this process before so I find it quite interesting.
I did do something very similar with a vinyl flooring product made by XL Flooring but it wasn't being walked on. The materials about a quarter inch thick. I made base for under some kitchen cabinets and I made four outside corners with a similar method but I used a table saw with the blade set at a 45° angle. Yes it sometimes took more than one attempt per corner.
That work is very impressive. I never knew this was possible.

 

[Mark Brown]

Yeah, I cut off the existing nosing because I am worried about the movement in the hollow where there is a possibility for cracking. Like I was saying, I wrap them around a 1x1 and usually fill the holy hell out of the bends. Then I go and glue the riser side of the wrap where the wood is exposed to the riser. I also use my table saw because it is much more efficient. Set the fence, run all your boards, set the fence again for the second cut and you can crank them out pretty quick.

I also hate the existing nosings for vinyl plank and think it is gross so I do that for most of my stairs. It is kind of like when we use to build nosings for hardwood out of stock wood, same idea, just instead of miters its bends.

 

[highup]

I'd have to manufacture a new table saw insert if I was to attempt something like that.
I love my antique Makita portable saw but the insert plate is a piece of thin stamped aluminum with some ribs in it. It's less than ideal but it's worked okay for most of my purposes.
..... Maybe I'll have to make /McGuiver a new one.

 

[C.J.]

Router table would do the trick nicely

 

[Mark Brown]

I find it slower, tablesaw with a nice fat carbide and away you go.

it's about the same either way I suppose but then I would have to fish out my router table lol

 

[C.J.]

My router table is incorporated with my table saw stand so no biggie for me. I’m just thinking about how to reduce/ eliminate steps. One pass through the router table vs two passes and an adjustment with the table saw. Less time per step means more per hour that you’re actually working. That way you have more time to be at home conducting experiments for our knowledge and benefit without losing any money.

 

[Mark Brown]

You still need to two pass, regardless if it is the router or the saw. I mean, you could set one AND the other and then really be cooking lol

 

[C.J.]

Maybe I’m missing something. How do you get a V groove out of a table saw with only one pass. Or do you have a secret that I don’t know about. Some bullshit that you’re keeping hidden up in Canada One of them miter fold saw blade kits would also do the trick. I’d have to do a set or two of stairs to figure out what works and what needs to be improved. I’m a big fan of jigs. Best damn way to speed up the process of getting repeatably consistent results.

 

[Mark Brown]

You just dont make a V-Groove, just use a wider carbide tip and away you go. At the right depth, it works well, I fill the void with PL which I realize might not be the best idea but seeing as I only want it for a filler and it is up against wood, I am not too worried about plastercizers and the like. I was cutting them at angles, then I realized that took a long ass time and gave up on that seeing as there was no need
Jigs are the key to life!! The last set we did, man we boggled up a few trying to get things set where we wanted them, but once you got it, you got it and dont bloody change anything or breath on the saw hard lol

 

[C.J.]

I am assuming this only works on WPC? SPC or rigid core would be to delicate so they would be a no go?

 

[Mark Brown]

Oh hell no, it works on anything. The key is you have to cut it just below the wear layer, print layer whatever you want to call it. So essentially all you are bending is the print. The set I have up there are an SPC foam attached. I will dig around in my truck and see if I still have the off cut from them. I saved it to show people what we can do with their product, if I do ill get some pics.

 

[Mark Brown]

Ok, so I watched his video in a bit more detail instead of skimming it. On a plank that thick, i would be busting out my router too!!

 

[C.J.]

Ok, so I watched his video in a bit more detail instead of skimming it. On a plank that thick, i would be busting out my router too!!

I was wondering how the heck you would do that with just a saw blade width cut.

 

[Tile Tom]

There's a company we use that makes them for you out of whatever you send them. I been thinking I could do them myself for a while but never seen any that someone did themselves.
I'll be doing my own from now on. The company we use also does them rounded. I think they rush the process. Seems like there's always a bow to the plank when I get them back. Kind of a pain in the ass to get them to lock. I usually have to tape the crap out of them till the glue sets up. But like I said, I'll be doing them myself now.

That's a pretty slick saw/ router table Chris. Can't say I've ever seen one like it. And the damn foot switch too! Man, you got it all figured out. Lol

It's on my Christmas list now!

 

[C.J.]

It’s a Rousseau table saw stand that I added the router insert and made the fence myself. The foot pedal is usually used for my dust collector when I’m using my chop saw hood but works just as well for the router. I used to use the iSocket to trigger my dust collector but then the saw and dust collector are both pulling off the same circuit and occasionally I would pop a breaker. The foot pedal allows the dust collector to be used on a separate circuit if I choose which is handy when I’m using my planer or something that likes to draw amps.