Recent content by Camasonian

Do you use any special brand of glue to glue them in place? Or just ordinary construction adhesive like liquid nails?

I ordered the Reno-T in brushed stainless which was 3x more expensive than anodized aluminum but I suspect will look nicer and last longer. Now just have to figure out the best way to cut perfect miters on it and create a nice butt joint as there are several sections where the run of the...

Hi all: I’m replacing some carpet with engineered hardwood and using 1/4” cork underlayment to bring the two surfaces up to the same elevation. I would like to avoid using the thick hardwood t-moldings that the hardwood floor manufacturers sell for this purpose. The tile is finished with a...

What do you guys think about using the Schluter Reno-T metal transition strip between tile and engineered hardwood? It looks to be lower profile than the thick hardwood T-moldings that the flooring companies sell, and also cheaper. I figure I can probably try just caulking the joint with some...

So far so good. I’m using Kahrs Oak Tapa engineered hardwood which has a sophisticated tongue and groove locking system that they call Woodloc 5G. You insert the long edge of the next board into the groove, press down and the ends snap-lock into place. Then use a tapping block to make sure all...

Well, I went with the Aquabar B and used the red underlayment tape to tape it all down using the 4” overlap which I assumed was intended by the marking lines on the sides of the roll that were 4” from the edge. On top of that I put down 1/4” cork which, combined with the 1/2” thickness of the...

That looks like a good intermediate solution. One Kahrs spec sheet says to use 6 mil plastic under the underlayment and wrap it up 2” on all sides. Another says it isn’t needed over wood subfloors, only over concrete. So even their advice is inconsistent depending on what you read. Aquabar B...

Hello all. I’m planning to install a 1/2” Kahrs click-lock floating engineered hardwood floor over OSB. I plan to use 1/4” cork underlayment as a sound deadened and to raise the level of this floor to match the tiled floor it will tie into in the hallway and kitchen. This is a ground floor...

OK, so run the planks perpendicular to the joists. Got it. If I'm not using solid hardwood planks, but engineered hardwood or LVP or a layer of 3/8 plywood does it still matter which way I run the planks?

That makes total sense and looks great. Except that I want to run the planks in the same direction as the tile border, rather than perpendicular as shown there.

By header do you mean nailing down the first strip of wood along the tile transition and then work back towards the opposite wall? That was what I was planning to do. I assume you would rip the tongue off the first row of planks along the tile transition and nail them down that way and just...

That’s the idea that I’m coming around to. Some day in the distant future we may decide to do a complete kitchen remodel at which case we might want to rip out all the tile and do all new floors. But that is a long way off as we have one child starting college and another who will in 3 years...

Hello everyone. The ground floor of my home is currently half tile (in the kitchen, hallways, and bath) and has 3 separate sections of old crummy carpet in the living room, family room, and the one ground-floor bedroom. I want to rip out the carpet and install some type of hardwood or...