A bit spendy. But a real problem solver. Forget gluing the flimsy plastic. Make matching trims out of any wood trim you want....
....or make one from scratch for any PITA situation.
....or make one from scratch for any PITA situation.
Miracle tool?
- Thread starter highup
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Now that’s where I draw the line. I’ll cut and modify any premade transition that’s out there but I absolutely refuse to skin a plank to make a matching transition.
Aside from that that’s a neat trick.
Aside from that that’s a neat trick.
The tool itself.
What's your fix or replacement for a Cortec T mold when your butting against tile and backerboard that's an inch tall?
I know it ain't the industry standard of using 2" flat bar. 
Then there's the tape, it says in the fine print here, if you read through it, there are three rolls per box so I think you need to triple the number to get the pricing but then again it's 130 ft of tape which would do an awful lot of moldings. You wouldn't be doing this for apartments, you'd be making these custom trims for special customers so I don't think the price is a big deal. It's neat to know there are alternatives.
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Oh, by the way, if you're a total cheapskate, the entire price of the tool alone (no case, no roller)
.........$1.50 plus fuel.
.........$1.50 plus fuel.
Something with an angle to it.
I’m sure I’m talkin smack because I’ll prolly be making those BS transitions or something just like it in 6 months time but right now, pfffttt that.
I saw both of his videos and thought them interesting.
The earlier one he was pulling the material off by hand and it looked crazy difficult. Either way the material gets wrinkled or distorted a little bit in the process but a heat gun will totally flatten it back out and return it to normal.
Yesterday, I went to do a look-see on a job where a guy installed Coretec 'T' mold between the Coretec in a hall and a fat looped Berber in two bedrooms.
The guy half-ass glued in the transitions using no tacks, nor tack strip in the doorway.
He sorta glued and shot a few pins through the 'T' mold and collected a check.
Anyway, this Berber is old, stiff with the big fat loops. They told me I'm the only one that could figure out a fix. (I've worked for them before)
......well, I'm figuring out a fix. It's going to involve a solid wood molding that can be glued down. Something secure enough that I can use tack strip and tick it in.
For the two doorways, they're looking at a good $300. It's 20 miles away.
These are older people and she wants to stop tripping over the hack molding job.
They aren't concerned about the cost, they want something better and safer.
....hence my trip to the candy store.
The earlier one he was pulling the material off by hand and it looked crazy difficult. Either way the material gets wrinkled or distorted a little bit in the process but a heat gun will totally flatten it back out and return it to normal.
Yesterday, I went to do a look-see on a job where a guy installed Coretec 'T' mold between the Coretec in a hall and a fat looped Berber in two bedrooms.
The guy half-ass glued in the transitions using no tacks, nor tack strip in the doorway.
He sorta glued and shot a few pins through the 'T' mold and collected a check.
Anyway, this Berber is old, stiff with the big fat loops. They told me I'm the only one that could figure out a fix. (I've worked for them before)
......well, I'm figuring out a fix. It's going to involve a solid wood molding that can be glued down. Something secure enough that I can use tack strip and tick it in.
For the two doorways, they're looking at a good $300. It's 20 miles away.
These are older people and she wants to stop tripping over the hack molding job.
They aren't concerned about the cost, they want something better and safer.
....hence my trip to the candy store.
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All I can say is, it works. Whoever installed the lvp did a nice job but the transitions didn't look very nice, so these people asked me to do something, anything ....just make it look better.
Cortec has a lousy selection of transitions especially for situations like this. The T-mold instead of being flat is an arched shape which looks ugly especially when it's lvp to lvp. When fitting to carpet, the T-mold doesn't work because there's no way to attach it. Even if you could, the carpet side would make it wobble. The only metal that would work would be inch and a half flat bar.
This was an older stiff Berber with seam tape in the doorway. After making the two oak moldings and wrapping them, there was still not enough material to tuck in, using tack strip as would have been preferred. The carpet edge is resting on tack strip, but the carpet is butted against this molding, not tucked in. I sealed the edge quite well with latex, so this certainly isn't going anywhere.
It felt kind of weird doing it this way but it looks good and it's definitely not going to come loose or unravel.
Then there's the T-mold.
It would have been very difficult to do this job without a t-molding in this location. A kitchen and dining room had already been done years before and the living room was carpeted. There was a flood in the house on the carpet was replaced by adding on to the existing lvp.
There is another door opening at the far end of a dining room and making that come around and connect to this angle would have been dicey so they chose to put a factory Coretec T-molding in place.
I don't know why they don't make these t-moldings flat. They have an arch that sticks up, making them a tripping hazard. I found another manufacturers t-molding and wrapped it with the same material this homeowner has. This t-molding is snapped into a wide aluminum track. The cortec one I removed was glued was glued and tacked in with a brad nailer
It was loose and floppy like the other moldings. It looked like total crap with all the brad holes in it.
Because this was kind of a test and a learning experience for me I only charge them 350 bucks but she wrote me a check for $500.
That's actually closer to what it was worth. I love happy customers.
Cortec has a lousy selection of transitions especially for situations like this. The T-mold instead of being flat is an arched shape which looks ugly especially when it's lvp to lvp. When fitting to carpet, the T-mold doesn't work because there's no way to attach it. Even if you could, the carpet side would make it wobble. The only metal that would work would be inch and a half flat bar.
This was an older stiff Berber with seam tape in the doorway. After making the two oak moldings and wrapping them, there was still not enough material to tuck in, using tack strip as would have been preferred. The carpet edge is resting on tack strip, but the carpet is butted against this molding, not tucked in. I sealed the edge quite well with latex, so this certainly isn't going anywhere.
It felt kind of weird doing it this way but it looks good and it's definitely not going to come loose or unravel.
Then there's the T-mold.
It would have been very difficult to do this job without a t-molding in this location. A kitchen and dining room had already been done years before and the living room was carpeted. There was a flood in the house on the carpet was replaced by adding on to the existing lvp.
There is another door opening at the far end of a dining room and making that come around and connect to this angle would have been dicey so they chose to put a factory Coretec T-molding in place.
I don't know why they don't make these t-moldings flat. They have an arch that sticks up, making them a tripping hazard. I found another manufacturers t-molding and wrapped it with the same material this homeowner has. This t-molding is snapped into a wide aluminum track. The cortec one I removed was glued was glued and tacked in with a brad nailer
It was loose and floppy like the other moldings. It looked like total crap with all the brad holes in it.Because this was kind of a test and a learning experience for me I only charge them 350 bucks but she wrote me a check for $500.
That's actually closer to what it was worth. I love happy customers.
Attachments
The two trims for the carpeted doorways were made from 3/8 by 1 3/4 oak countertop edging. I ran the through my table saw and sanded them for a better profile before wrapping them. They are glued in place, requiring just a few shots from my Hitachi pinner. The pins are virtually invisible..... I don't use the pinner often, but it's another miracle tool.
