Best material for Bedroom subfloor

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Ivan1218

New Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2023
Messages
2
Location
Massachusetts
Hi all,

I am currently replacing a very old, worn, gap-filled hardwood floor, and replacing it with (floating)VPL in three bedrooms. The wood I'm removing is 3/4" thick, and the VPL is 1/4". I need to make up for the 1/2" diference with some type of subfloor. Plywood? OSB? Something else? Also, best fastening method? 1 1/2" screws? Thanks in advance for any/all help.
 
Remove the hardwood floor and install a layer of 1/2” underlayment to make up the difference. Plywood, OSB or even particle board, it doesn’t matter. Sure some are better choices than others but they will all get the job done.

Using screws for fasteners is a lot of work. I used them on my house.

If I’m doing a job for a customer I’m prolly gonna use a nail gun just because it’s so much faster.

Technically the fasteners are not supposed to penetrate through the back of your subfloor so if you have 3/4” subfloor and are installing a layer of 1/2” underlayment that gives you 5/4” of wood. If you’re countersinking the fasteners you’re now down to 1 1/8” of fastener length without penetrating the back side of your underlayment. Not many nails that short with the holding power that you’ll need so staples it is if you still don’t want to screw the underlayment down.

So you’re gonna screw the underlayment down. Just go buy a big bucket of 1 1/4” construction screws. Hit the seams every 3” or 4” and 6” to 9” in the field.
 
Remove the hardwood floor and install a layer of 1/2” underlayment to make up the difference. Plywood, OSB or even particle board, it doesn’t matter. Sure some are better choices than others but they will all get the job done.

Using screws for fasteners is a lot of work. I used them on my house.

If I’m doing a job for a customer I’m prolly gonna use a nail gun just because it’s so much faster.

Technically the fasteners are not supposed to penetrate through the back of your subfloor so if you have 3/4” subfloor and are installing a layer of 1/2” underlayment that gives you 5/4” of wood. If you’re countersinking the fasteners you’re now down to 1 1/8” of fastener length without penetrating the back side of your underlayment. Not many nails that short with the holding power that you’ll need so staples it is if you still don’t want to screw the underlayment down.

So you’re gonna screw the underlayment down. Just go buy a big bucket of 1 1/4” construction screws. Hit the seams every 3” or 4” and 6” to 9” in the field.
Exactly what I was hoping for in a response! Really appreciate the advice/wisdom. Thank you so much!
 
Exactly what I was hoping for in a response! Really appreciate the advice/wisdom. Thank you so much!
If you want to use screws there is a way to speed up the process a lot.
Instead of grabbing one screw at a time and screwing it in, grab a small handful of screws and tap them in just like you would a nail, just enough to stick them in place. Tap 20 or 30 nails into the floor in a pattern just like you would with nailing. Now grab your drill/driver and screw all of them home, then tap in another 20 or 30 screws.
 
If you want to use screws there is a way to speed up the process a lot.
Instead of grabbing one screw at a time and screwing it in, grab a small handful of screws and tap them in just like you would a nail, just enough to stick them in place. Tap 20 or 30 nails into the floor in a pattern just like you would with nailing. Now grab your drill/driver and screw all of them home, then tap in another 20 or 30 screws.
I had to screw through two layers of 3/4" underlayment into sleepers on a stage we built at an elementary school a few years back. We bought the automatic screw thingamabob but it wasn't powerful enough. So I had to do what you said------tap in the screws like a nail to get it set and them come back with the higher torque 1/2" drill motor.
 

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I don't recall the first time I did it that way, but when I did, it sure sped up the process.
With your pictures, we now have a visual for anyone else that has a lot of screwing around to do. 👍
Now, if someone only made a laser with an adjustable grid pattern for fastener placement......
🤔
.....'escuse me, my drafting table is calling.
 
If you are just looking to make up the difference in height; I highly suggest adding a 1/2" cork underlayment to your install. It had a multitude of benefits.
 

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