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I've got several DeWalt tools e.g. drill driver, impact driver, biscuit joiner, router. Happy with all of them. Quick story on B&D ownership of DeWalt. When I was looking to buy a biscuit joiner I read a lot of reviews and finally got it narrowed down to the B&D and DeWalt. When I found that...

Do they look like they are supporting the bottom rail of the cabinet? What is their width 3 or 3 1/2 inches? What is the width of the bottom rail of the cabinet? Can you tell how they are attached?

If you pull off a toe skin it should be hollow under the cabinet. The sides of the cabinet are what the toe skins are attached to. This hollow will provide plenty of room for expansion. You could cut a 1/2" notch in the sides to provide expansion space where the floor boards would contact the...

Assuming the toe skins are 3/4" thick why not just remove 5/8" from the bottom to allow the flooring to slide under 1/4" giving you a 1/2" expansion gap? The cabinet overhang/toe kick space is designed to allow you to stand against the counter with your feet under the overhang....if you want to...

Cut the nosing overhang off the nosing piece that is there. Where it goes into the skirt bard you can cut it off flush and paint it to match.....you can make this cut with an oscillating multi tool. Or you can pull it out and use wood filler and paint to match. If the carpeting came over the...

What was on the hallway floor before? Has the landing nosing in the picture always been there? Stairs will not change? Are all the riser heights, including the top step to the landing within code?

Can you post a diagram? Depending on the subfloor and joist spacing it may be best to run the flooring perpendicular to the floor joists. If this is not an issue then there are a few other consideration: aesthetics e.g. running all the flooring in the same direction, transitions or flush...

It's best to stop in the middle of the doorway so that when the door is closed you don't see the direction change under the door. What you see when on either side of the closed door is flooring that runs in the same direction as the rest of the flooring in the room you are in.

Cupping occurs when the bottom of a floor board has a higher moisture content than the top of a floor board. A common scenario is when the floor is above a basement or crawlspace which is at a higher humidity level than the room above. Any width solid hardwood can have problems if the relative...

As long as you realize that the relative humidity in your home should be kept within a certain range year round the solid hardwood will be fine. You already have solid hardwood in the home. Any problems with that? The wider the floor boards the more sensitive to humidity extremes.

There are building codes for stairs that should be adhered to in order to prevent tripping hazards. These involve tread and riser dimensions. The top of the stairs, i.e. the landing nosing that you are referring to 'participates' in the code dimensions. Also, this spot is subject to a lot of...

Looks like you have several transitions/reducers to do.

Is the photo 3 picture of the dining area where the transition/reducer that we have been discussing will be? What about a transition to the bathroom tile?

Use good blades in the oscillating tool when you cut the casings. Junk blades for the sheetrock. You can buy an oscillating tool at Harbor Freight for about $15. The Harbor Freight blades are cheap and junk...ok for sheetrock. FWIW check out the wood manufacturer...with prefinished flooring...

Are you undercutting the door case trim? If not, consider doing it....the flooring will fit under it and look good....oscillating multi tool works great for this. Do you know who manufactured your flooring? If so, contact them to get the details on the finish....most prefinished flooring has...

I couldn't quite get the layout but I saw the number 52 feet. If the area is wider than 20 feet the rule of thumb is to start in the middle and lay the flooring in 2 directions toward the outer edges. This will help with expansion issues, if they occur. So again, plan the layout before...

Is that first row down the hall against a wall? Is there a baseboard? Are you removing the baseboard? For the transitions match the color and get a good poly....I assume your flooring has a polyurethane finish. Last N Last is an excellent oil base polyurethane.....I don't work for the...

1" bare ply is luan? Remove it. The first row of hardwood should cover the edge of the linoleum. Rabbet (5/16") the underside so that the rabbet sits on the linoleum. Extend the rabbet 1/2" for expansion gap. Chamfer the top edge that sits on the linoleum. Face nail this row and then nail...

1/2" expansion gap is enough for your flooring. Linoleum doesn't run to edge of luan? If not, remove the exposed luan. Can you post a picture? I think I'm following you...want to be sure. Floor tongues face away from linoleum? Is the flooring installed?

Is the new flooring being laid toward or away from the linoleum? My explanation assumes you are installing the hardwood towards the linoleum and I refer to the transition reducer as the last piece. If you are installing the hardwood going away from the linoleum the same advice applies but the...