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Best approach for installing 3/4 x 3" pine flooring?
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<blockquote data-quote="Zengirl" data-source="post: 15795" data-attributes="member: 1449"><p>Hello! I have read about 20 documents and posts about installing underlayment and pine flooring over my existing subfloor and want to make sure I've got all the right steps and materials planned out. Any expert feedback or corrections would be greatly appreciated!</p><p></p><p>Assumption is the existing subfloor is 30+ years old (house is 60 years old, but this room was an addition at some point). I have moderate DIY skills and am petite - so relying on muscle strength to get the job done isn't an option!</p><p></p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">I will add more vapor barrier over the exposed crawl space dirt, where I have access and visibility.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Existing subfloor on the joists is 3/4 wood (old shiplap style, maybe pine - I can't find exact replacement). Some of it is in bad shape has split and cracked at knots and is very squeaky in places. I am replacing the bad boards with closest match - a 3/4 spruce, but straight boards, not shiplap. Should I use 2" coarse-threaded screws or nails to make sure remaining old subfloor boards are solid and won't start squeaking?</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">If subfloor has significant high/low spots, I've read that sanding, asphalt shingles, or compound filling (not sure what type) should be used. Any suggestions or preferred method? </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Should there be a tar paper, 15 lb felt or other material between the 3/4 subfloor and new underlayment?</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Then I'll install new underlayment at 1/4" from wall. Planning on 1/2" T&G plywood. Should I use 3/4" ply? Or would gypsum fiber board be better for this application? With plywood, I've read I should use ring shanked nails or screws to secure it to the subfloor.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Then I'll lay down either rosin paper or the asphalt saturated felt paper. Any professional preferences for the paper between underlayment and finished flooring?</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Then the 3/4 x 3" unfinished pine flooring gets installed with 3/4" spacing from wall. Will be top nailed on wall pieces only and blind nailed on top of tongue at appropriate spacing with 1 1/2" finish nails on all boards. I've read that when installing by hand it is advisable to predrill a hole before hammering in the nails (and use a punch so as not to damage tongue). Should I rent a nail gun or is it a better bet to do this by hand (predrilling and nailing)?</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Finally I'll sand the installed pine flooring with an orbital sander (?) and then apply desired stain and poly.</li> </ol><p></p><p>I think that does it! Did I miss any steps? I sure appreciate any advice here so I don't mess this up. It is for about 140 square foot office space.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Thank you!</p><p>Vick</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Zengirl, post: 15795, member: 1449"] Hello! I have read about 20 documents and posts about installing underlayment and pine flooring over my existing subfloor and want to make sure I've got all the right steps and materials planned out. Any expert feedback or corrections would be greatly appreciated! Assumption is the existing subfloor is 30+ years old (house is 60 years old, but this room was an addition at some point). I have moderate DIY skills and am petite - so relying on muscle strength to get the job done isn't an option! [LIST=1] [*]I will add more vapor barrier over the exposed crawl space dirt, where I have access and visibility. [*]Existing subfloor on the joists is 3/4 wood (old shiplap style, maybe pine - I can't find exact replacement). Some of it is in bad shape has split and cracked at knots and is very squeaky in places. I am replacing the bad boards with closest match - a 3/4 spruce, but straight boards, not shiplap. Should I use 2" coarse-threaded screws or nails to make sure remaining old subfloor boards are solid and won't start squeaking? [*]If subfloor has significant high/low spots, I've read that sanding, asphalt shingles, or compound filling (not sure what type) should be used. Any suggestions or preferred method? [*]Should there be a tar paper, 15 lb felt or other material between the 3/4 subfloor and new underlayment? [*]Then I'll install new underlayment at 1/4" from wall. Planning on 1/2" T&G plywood. Should I use 3/4" ply? Or would gypsum fiber board be better for this application? With plywood, I've read I should use ring shanked nails or screws to secure it to the subfloor. [*]Then I'll lay down either rosin paper or the asphalt saturated felt paper. Any professional preferences for the paper between underlayment and finished flooring? [*]Then the 3/4 x 3" unfinished pine flooring gets installed with 3/4" spacing from wall. Will be top nailed on wall pieces only and blind nailed on top of tongue at appropriate spacing with 1 1/2" finish nails on all boards. I've read that when installing by hand it is advisable to predrill a hole before hammering in the nails (and use a punch so as not to damage tongue). Should I rent a nail gun or is it a better bet to do this by hand (predrilling and nailing)? [*]Finally I'll sand the installed pine flooring with an orbital sander (?) and then apply desired stain and poly. [/LIST] I think that does it! Did I miss any steps? I sure appreciate any advice here so I don't mess this up. It is for about 140 square foot office space. Thank you! Vick [/QUOTE]
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