Challenges installing AquaPlus LVP

[billmccollam]

I'm having challenges installing this product. Mainly issues of getting a good tight fit between planks especially along two seams.

Background. I'm a DIY homeowner. Recently lifted at 30 yr old carpet from the basement concrete floor - 2 simple rooms about 600 sq feet. The old adhesive was difficult to completely remove as it seemed to have calcified hard and brittle - but after hours of scraping and sanding it looks in good shape (there you can still feel some ridges with your fingertips but probably less than 1/32nd inch). The surface was otherwise dry, level and uncracked.

The product is AquaPlus Gold 7mm. My research had indicated generally postive reviews.

The issue I'm having is with fit. The first row goes in pretty well and the second row starts well... but as I start to install against two seams with the next plank I'm having a hard time fitting the toungues into both grooves at once.The 5' long plank is quite heavy... and fiddly to connect well. Then when adding more planks and not having a really tight seam - I'll tap the edges.. but this seems to just dislodge other joints slightly.

At this point I can't tell if its just my bad technique (looked pretty simple in dozens of videos i watched), the slight surface irregularity, or a bad product.

Tips and advice would be greatly appreciated. (It feels if I could temporily 'lock in' joints with a clamp or something that would help).

Cheer and TIA.
Bill

 

[Tile Tom]

Not familiar with your particular product but their all pretty much the same & I've put in hundreds of thousands of SQ ft.
Your first row has to be dead nuts straight. Then you will need spacers to fill the gap against the wall temporarily until you get a few rows out so it can't flex when you tap the plank into the previous row. I also use a bullet tapping block to tap my planks together. Trying to do it by hand is what they probably show on the diy instructions. It can be done but us professionals have to make a buck so we know how to get it done fast.

 

[billmccollam]

I'm just using a bit of 2 x 4 tapping with a mallet. I dont tap hard as im worried about damaging the edges - but even at that... some of the taps seem to dislodge other parts that I've laid. Putting some weights on completed parts is helping a little.

 

[JPfloor]

That implies something isn’t straight or square. Did you make sure the first row is straight and put spacers/wedges between it and the wall so it can’t move? That’s key. 2X4 can cause damage. If you don’t have a tapping block use a scrap piece to help avoid damaging the edges. Shouldn’t have to tap too hard.

 

[billmccollam]

First try i tried to start it on a chalk line a few inches from the wall (was trying to end in a good place). That caused some adjustment issues so I tried the way you said... that was better. It's actually going better now. First 7 rows look pretty good. I stopped after that to go get a tapping block tomorrow. Even though it looks good and square... there are some seems that look like they could be tighter.. Thnks for the advice.

 

[billmccollam]

Just wanted to conclude this thread with some advice for other DIYr's using this product. Installation became a lot easier after I realized a few things...

1. having that first row perfectly square and straight is critical. It must also be very well anchored. I had initially tired to install it on a squared chalk line a little bit away from the back wall - since I'd seen that in a video as a way to avoid problems from starting against an imperfect wall. But since I didnt anchor that row - it would just shift during the second row and give me grief. I subsequently used spaces on the back wall.
2. Make real sure your vertical (short edge) seams are perfectly aligned. Even a mm difference causes issues later
3. Most importantly. Understand that your vertical (sort edge) seams dont really lock the way the horizonal (long edge) ones do. The horizonal ones work by sliding the tongue end under the top plank and into the groove.. you need an angle to do that. However, your vertical ones can simple be dropped into the groove without an angle. This isnt what I was expecting from watching other videos (wihich seemd to indicated both seams needed angling in. When you realize how they reallly work... its much much easier. And faster.

Thanks for the help...
Cheers

 

[havasu]

I had success by blue taping every seam when I was doing a back fill on LVT. It worked great for me.

 

[billmccollam]

we started doing that as well midway through... not sure if it was necessary but it sort of felt better.

 

[Tile Tom]

Just another thought. You can start off a chalk line no problem. You just have to secure a straight piece of wood or something to the floor on your line. That gives you something to tap against.

Glad you got your project taken care of man.

 

[billmccollam]

Yeah, that would have helped. This was part 1 of a 3 part project. Next is the main room in the basement. It's much larger 30ft x 15ft and the planks will run on the long side. I just have to figure out how to temporarily affix a guide along that long chalk line (to concrete).

 

[Incognito]

Yeah, that would have helped. This was part 1 of a 3 part project. Next is the main room in the basement. It's much larger 30ft x 15ft and the planks will run on the long side. I just have to figure out how to temporarily affix a guide along that long chalk line (to concrete).

Construction adhesive will hold a board down secure to the slab if you can do that the day ahead. Otherwise you can use concrete nails. Carpet tack strips made for concrete installs have the nails already in place.

See the concrete tack strip on the left side of these bamboo planks adhered to a concrete slab over a moisture membrane. I had to slightly weigh down the planks because we didn't have enough in the budget to self-level or otherwise flatten the slab.

 

[C.J.]

I like the tack strip idea. Quick and easy.

 

[billmccollam]

Construction adhesive will hold a board down secure to the slab if you can do that the day ahead. Otherwise you can use concrete nails. Carpet tack strips made for concrete installs have the nails already in place.

See the concrete tack strip on the left side of these bamboo planks adhered to a concrete slab over a moisture membrane. I had to slightly weigh down the planks because we didn't have enough in the budget to self-level or otherwise flatten the slab.

Very cool... looks really neat. Also interesting to see how you used to weight to help with the dips and hills

 

[Tile Tom]

Even some hot glue works great

 

[JPfloor]

Very cool indeed but that wood is glued down... Keep in mind weights won't help with a floating floor.

 

[Steve079]

I use my high temp glue gun to secure 1ft lengths of what I call backer boards, at the end joints , of my starter rows. I get my first 3 rows laid out, glue down my backer boards, with the hot melt glue gun. I tack off that areas where I'll use hot glue, but, sometimes even with that, I may need to go back and reglue. I admit, it is time consuming, but I'm more result driven then time aware. Glue down, floating floor, what ever. This is my concrete procedure.
On that note, the products that use the Valinge patent are my least favorite to install, just not enough tongue to engage the groove.
But, if you are running straight, I will say this locking joint, once properly installed, seldom develops issues I see in others.
Start straight, stay straight.