Closet doorways, please advise.

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EllenEL

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Half way there. Too many doorways. Am using Kahrs floating floor which works the best when angled 20-30 degree to lock.
I am stumbling on how to work around closet door entries. The only way something goes under door frame and door jamb is flat. I undercut them but I need an angle to lock any boards. I did figured out that removing locking mechanism should help except am still undecided which way to go.
Before I invent the wheel, please advise.
 

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C.J.

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Shave the lip off of the tongue n groove so you can slide the planks together while flat. Test fit and if all is good put some Titebond in the groove and pull them together then tape em until the glue sets. Careful not to use too much glue cus that will fill up the groove too much and prevent you from fully seating the planks together.
 

EllenEL

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Location
Chicago
Thank you CJ!
Am thinking I should try to notch one plank with doorframe opening and possibly slide it in deep enough under and then pull it out after fixing previous row. That still leaves me with problem of short end planks not matching in one row. Due to being like small fence teeth mechanism planks do not slide against each other when locked so any locked position is final.
My other thought is to end run under doorframe, then set separate piece from the back and fiil doorframe area with a filler piece which is not connected to either.
Except I have trackless bifold doors which will need to be screwed into floor in that area.
 

C.J.

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I see the screw holes from the closet door brackets. Just screw the brackets back into the vertical spots but leave the floor screw out. That will allow your floor to do whatever it does without messing with your brackets should the floor move.

As far as the boards sliding under the jamb, shave the tongue n groove enough so the boards slide when tapped. Wood glue will hold things together when you get the planks where you want them.
 
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