COREtec plus

Discussion in 'Vinyl Flooring' started by Ernesto, Jun 14, 2017.

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  1. Jun 14, 2017 #1

    Ernesto

    Ernesto

    Ernesto

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    Another coretec+ job in travertine look.
    Thing is this has to be installed in block pattern.
    So depending on the layout you could be short with a 10% waste factor.
    Then try installing it in an old mobile home. Clearance around door casings are almost impossible given the required gap.
    But.... the product is amazing to work with.
    Sorry the pics do not do it justice.

    20170607_133407.jpg

    20170607_133210.jpg

    20170607_143913.jpg

    20170607_133226.jpg
     
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  2. Jun 14, 2017 #2

    zannej

    zannej

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    Ooh, that looks nice! Does it have to be glued down or does it click/secure together somehow? How thick is it? Where do you buy it?

    Something like that might be nice for my laundry room!
     
  3. Jun 14, 2017 #3

    Ernesto

    Ernesto

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    Its click and 8mm thick which is similar to laminate 5/16 in. This product has agglomerated cork on the back as an attached cushion. Others attach rubber of foam, some do not have an attached underlay.
     
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  4. Jun 14, 2017 #4

    Don Monfils

    Don Monfils

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  5. Jun 15, 2017 #5

    Ernesto

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    Cant really read it. What is it?
     
  6. Jun 15, 2017 #6

    Don Monfils

    Don Monfils

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    Core-tec HD. 6' long x 9" wide
     
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  7. Jun 15, 2017 #7

    Ernesto

    Ernesto

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    Isn't it great?
     
  8. Jun 15, 2017 #8

    Don Monfils

    Don Monfils

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    Love the stuff 👍🏿
     
  9. Jun 17, 2017 #9

    zannej

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    What kind of coretec do you think would be best for a laundry room area with heavy traffic? Cat claws, dog claws, people dragging laundry baskets, dirt coming in from the back door...
    I'm thinking Coretec might be the way to go for that area.
     
  10. Jun 17, 2017 #10

    Ernesto

    Ernesto

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    Like a mud room?
    Ceramic tile.
     
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  11. Jun 19, 2017 #11

    highup

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    Do you use the Coretek transitions when butting up to carpet? If so, how do you go about it? There's such a minuscule edge to attach to the floor.
     
  12. Jun 19, 2017 #12

    Don Monfils

    Don Monfils

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    I use their baby thresholds, used to use dura-bond but apparently you can't buy the stuff in New York anymore 🙄
    Now I use contact cement to adhere them.
    The transition is about the same height as the tackless. It's a fine line between cutting just enough or cutting the carpet short.
     
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  13. Jun 20, 2017 #13

    highup

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    I was told that the Powerhold equivalent is just Durabond re-Branded. Powerhiolod sealer is most likely outlawed in NY too ......just like Super Big Gulps.;)
    Got 4 or 5 transitions to install on a completed Coretec job 30 minutes out of town tomorrow. I won't know what I need to do until I see the job. I assume the installer didn't figure the transitions as he worked, so whatever happens is now in my tender loving hands. :rolleyes: I guess the Coretec will need to be trimmed back in a couple of places to allow the transitions to fit, so
    I'll buy a new blade for my Fein tool before I head out.
    I see the T's have tracks. I know the baby doesn't. I've used Chemrex on them before. I have sanded the base so the Chemrex can adhere. Usually I'm on a job more than a day, so the set time hasn't been a problem.
    If it works out, I'll use tack strip and Z-bar. That might not work tho, because this is a water damage resto job. Not sure if the carpet is long enough to do what I want it to do. :rolleyes:
    Hope I don't need 2 inch flat bar, 'cause that's not gonna fly with this customer.
     
  14. Jun 27, 2017 #14

    Ernesto

    Ernesto

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    On transitions over a wood substrate i use some construction adhesive and staples. On concrete same thing but spot hot glue with pl premium.
    If i have to remove the lip on a vinyl plank rotating locking mechanism i use Mannington seam sealer MMS 20. Just smell it and you know its great stuff.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2017
  15. Jun 27, 2017 #15

    highup

    highup

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    Staples? :eek: Where do you get your wood grain paint to cover staples?
    I'm talking about fastening/adhereing the baby threshold, not the transitions with the snap in trims.
     
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  16. Jul 15, 2017 #16

    highup

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    I had the shop order 2 boxes of Coretec to do a warranty fix near a sliding glass door. The sun hits the floor, and no transition was used, so along the door, the flooring was locked in tight because of the caulking. I saw some Coretec end molding trim at the house, but it never got used.............. they just caulked the door leaving zero expansion. :rolleyes: The room is over 15 feet wide.
    This 8 year old flooring has distortions and buckling because of the sunlight (heat), or water that got tracked in over the years. (the sliding door is their main entrance) The Coretec has the cork backing and I'm not sure if that can contribute to the warping.
    Long story short.............. the colors are a little lighter in the new boxes of this same product. The rough, grainy and realistic wood look of the old flooring has been changed/modified to a smoother, softer and much shinier surface with a less pronounced wood grain. The new material's end joints will not engage intto the old floors locking mechanism. Slide it together and you can slide it right back apart........ so they changed something. On the long direction, the click joints work, but engage quite easily with no effort at all.
    I think if they change a product that much, they ought to change the products name. I'm disappointed. I was expecting somewhat of a close color match and also expecting the joint click to be the same. Color was off, but doable.......... the surface smoothness, sheen and wood grain were totally changed from the older (better looking) version.
    Customer only had a few rem pieces so I may be able to swap old boards and put bad/warped boards where they are less noticeable. I mean to use the good boards from under the wood stove and couch and put those boards in the glass doorway.
    I'll be installing a real wood threshold molding against the sliding door instead of that annoying, wimpy, disgusting, Coretec end cap.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2017
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  17. Jul 15, 2017 #17

    Ernesto

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    How often would the cheap plastic end cap actually get stepped on up against a threshold?
     
  18. Jul 16, 2017 #18

    highup

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    Never. That's not the point. It's purpose is to allow movement of the flooring. That end cap/threshold/what every they call it has such a tiny footprint it takes 5 times longer to install than any molding I've ever seen. It looks good because it's so thin. But trying to adhere it to a not so perfect surface is like freeking ridiculous. You can't nail of staple it. It has no track. It needs a 3X wider contact surface at the very least.
    Like Don said about tucking carpet against it.............. its a bitch. Since it can't be nailed, you can't use tackstrip and tuck against it........... not tightly anyway. Only way to make it work is with Z-bar so there's no pressure from the carpet being forced against it.

    Shown below is a problem situation that can't be done easily with the Coretec molding. Fitting up to the sliding glass door frame like the one I just did.
    See the blue colored Armstrong vinyl layer? There is a gap between that old thick vinyl and the plastic sliding glass door frame. It's an uneven gap too. Some places the vinyl was cut 1/8" away from the door frame and some places it was cut 1/2 inch away.
    I'm betting the installer of the Coretec had cut the vinyl back because it had shrunk over time and curled up a lot. He cut the vinyl back to make the floor flat near the door.
    The Coretec molding has an incredibly narrow footprint so unless you filled the gap with adhesive and weighted the 6 foot wide piece of trim so it sat flat atop the Coretec as the adhesive dried........................... well I'm saying this is just nutz.
    I used a wood threshold instead. I cut it in down a little in width and cut it for length, put a bead of silicone between the plastic frame and the wood, shot it in with my brad nailer and I was done. The Coretec trim is wimpy for a situation like this and the gap from the Armstrong vinyl being removed made using it pointless. This threshold trim works in ideal situations only.
    That said, the trim is pretty, but useless until they design a fastening system for it.

    Molding against door.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2017
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  19. Jul 17, 2017 #19

    Ernesto

    Ernesto

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    Funny, I get tracks with them. Sometimes I'll rip the back side off a T-mold to make an end cap.
     
  20. Jul 17, 2017 #20

    highup

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    The only trim that doesn't have a track is the one in my sketch above.
     

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