Coretec trims
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Just took these for you High. Its a newer idea from Baroque flooring from the 9" x 6' LVP. My old partner actually did this with a T-mold, drilled an glued some wood dowels into the leg of the T-mold. Worked really well but took forever. Plus i hate drilling holes in CC.
These guys have a cool set-up going but they say just glue it if on an angle. They supply NO brackets at all.
These guys have a cool set-up going but they say just glue it if on an angle. They supply NO brackets at all.
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Overthinking has made me famous all over the entire...I wouldn't even bother using the bracket on that. Just PL premium that thing down. Your overthinking it to death.
...well this forum anyway.
What I did was give you complete control of how this goes down.
No weights, no alignment issues, no tightness issues (Gaps) between the Cortec and the tile, no glue ooooze or cleanup. No asking the customer to remove weights or tape later......... No retrieving whatever you left as weights.
IE:
When I leave, I'm done.
I work on wood up here in the land of "renewable resources" (wood substrate) I can see a different logic on concrete like you deal with.
Without further adoo doo, here's the setup/mock-up.
Ideally the gripper edge of the T should go at least one notch lower into the track. My mock-up was whipped up kinda quick so I didn't fine tune the depth that the T mold would go into the track............ IE:
Good enough for who it's for.
The track is just the standard aluminum track used for vinyl moldings...... Using my table saw, I just cut off the lip that's normally nailed down. My nails are now positioned inside the much smaller track.
Look closely and notice that one side of the plastic "T" molding ....the insert itself has been almost trimmed off. The part of the T molding that goes into the metal track (as opposed to the plastic one that came with it)
You have to carefully fine tune the amount of the feathered edge of the T mold that you remove so it fits snug enough into the metal track to do it's job. The metal track has more ridges that the original plastiuc track, and being aluminum, the grooves are sharper and deeper which means more forgiving.
I'll wait for responses before adding other things I was thinking on this one.
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I left the paneling nail up so the guys at the shop could see what I did to fasten the track........... The hole has to be dre drilled of course.
There's 3/8" difference in height between these two surfaces. I think that's about the limit using the Cortec T molding the way that I did. The job I just completed using this process was ever so slightly slightly less height change than this mock-up.
If I was actually installing this same trim at this particular height difference, (3/8") the wooden shim raising the metal track would probably need to be almost an 8th inch thicker... maybe 3/32?
...again, this mock up is just for show. Look close and you can see the T molding barely reaches into the groove of the track.
You can also see approximately how much was removed from the left side of the T molding so it fits into this smaller width metal track. If fit slightly snug that cut side will still grab into the sharp edges of the metal track.
........if in doubt, add the glue of your own choice.
There's 3/8" difference in height between these two surfaces. I think that's about the limit using the Cortec T molding the way that I did. The job I just completed using this process was ever so slightly slightly less height change than this mock-up.
If I was actually installing this same trim at this particular height difference, (3/8") the wooden shim raising the metal track would probably need to be almost an 8th inch thicker... maybe 3/32?
...again, this mock up is just for show. Look close and you can see the T molding barely reaches into the groove of the track.
You can also see approximately how much was removed from the left side of the T molding so it fits into this smaller width metal track. If fit slightly snug that cut side will still grab into the sharp edges of the metal track.
........if in doubt, add the glue of your own choice.
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Two other things to note. In my mock up there's a gap between the tile and the track. The gap was only 1/8" on the job where I did this. Also, the original Cortec installer on my repair job left a 1/2 inch gap between the tile and the Cortec. That gap is also wider in my mock up.
The area circled shows where some adhesive or silicone might be squirted in for some additional reinforcement of the T molding. This plastic track is really tough material, so I don't think its really needed. The shim on my project was tall enough so the bottom of the molding fin almost bottomed out in the track....... meaning there is plenty of support in the center of the molding.
The area circled shows where some adhesive or silicone might be squirted in for some additional reinforcement of the T molding. This plastic track is really tough material, so I don't think its really needed. The shim on my project was tall enough so the bottom of the molding fin almost bottomed out in the track....... meaning there is plenty of support in the center of the molding.
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