handyflooringpros
Active Member
Ok . Looking into a rail saw now . I will do just that . How long should I wait to see if it will flatten back out ?
Cupping or air bubbles in engineered floor please help
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handyflooringpros
Active Member
No i have not as of yet .
I would check the moisture content first, then check to see if and where teh flooring is tight against the walls and any other vertical obstructions before i invested in the rail saw. I think Ernesto's advice is good in regards to the rail saw, I think I'd just make sure it's needed on this job first. I believe you're going to find it is, but you know.
FloorMaven
Well-Known Member
While it's nice to have you don't really NEED a rail saw to cut the floor open. A secure straight edge and a well adjusted circular saw with a sharp blade will do the job.
hardsurfaceguy
Well-Known Member
A floating floor, glued down over concrete?
Kenny, not just to cut the floor open but to relief cut the perimeter. My ole worm skilsaw can cut floors open but not tight against the walls.
FloorMaven
Well-Known Member
My festool plunge saw can't get that close. My undercut saw can though.
You must have the TS 75, it has that knob on the outside. The TS 55, the Makita SP6000 and DeWalt DWS520 are flush on the side. And looks like they could get to within a half inch or so to a vertical surface or wall.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/tool-reviews/plunge-cut_saws
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LZ31PU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
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FloorMaven
Well-Known Member
I have the 55 and you are fairly accurate as far as the clearance goes. About a half-inch including kerf. There's a bit of a budge on the saw where the dust port is that might add another 1/8" or so. Even if you were able to hug the wall with it and don't consider tolerances for human error, irregularity in the wall board and chipping, etc. - 1/2" is still probably too big of a gap for most standard applications.
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FloorMaven
Well-Known Member
PS: the knob you refer to is a splinter guard that is removable from both the 55 & 75.
Good to know, I've only seen the splinter guard on the 75 in pics. I think in this case; cutting a gap with base off, one could eleviate any locked in floor, put base back on and maybe quarter round if need be.
Course one with the riving knife would help for kickbacks.
FloorMaven
Well-Known Member
In theory your idea makes sense. In practical application the saw is designed to run straight; following an irregular wall will surely cause it to bind. In a commercial application you may very well be looking at vinyl or rubber base with minimal coverage. Following the wall with an undercut saw is more practical and cheaper. Of course cutting the drywall away prior to install gives you an extra half inch.
Might as well just use a toekick saw, probably a little less dangerous than using an undercut saw, teensy bit less dangerous.
I have undercut sheetrock quite a few times when options are minimal, like 1/2 inch base or less and the client will nto accept shoe or quarter round, large expanses etc. But thats not here or there in this thread.
FloorMaven
Well-Known Member
Maybe a teensy bit safer...probably never use the tool again though.
You got a toe kick saw Ken? One guy here, old CFI guy who died of a heart attack, Hank and his wife Bunny always just laid the floor out, then cut the perimeter gap with his toekick saw after the floor was installed. He said it saved home lots of time.
I'm not so sure about that as I don't measure the cut on the ends. I flip the plank backwards and mark it, cut it, done.
I'm not so sure about that as I don't measure the cut on the ends. I flip the plank backwards and mark it, cut it, done.
I agree. Why measure twice then mark before you cut?
FloorMaven
Well-Known Member
Hank. Grumpy guy, smoked a lot. But a nice person when you got to know him. He was in his 50s I think.
Yup, chain smoker. Nice guy and would help you with any question if he knew the answer. Bunny was just as smart and a woman who could lay anything, not a cert she didn't have.
Lee Tucker
Well-Known Member
Amazong Grace is needed,
Did I read floating glued down? Man who told you to run away from this is 100% correct, when you do a repair on someone else’s work you assume all responsibility for their workmanship repairing it, I would never assume responsibility for someone else’s work
Did I read floating glued down? Man who told you to run away from this is 100% correct, when you do a repair on someone else’s work you assume all responsibility for their workmanship repairing it, I would never assume responsibility for someone else’s work
