Cut pile Wilton Remnant

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MSLI

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Two pieces, requiring a Cross/ Head seam šŸ˜” for a 13x19 area rug.

If I follow the Weft shots the seam will be sound and less visible, but undoubtedly will create wrinkles.

If I straight edge, cutting back and forth across the Weft shots, Iā€™ll have no wrinkles, but an unsound and visible seam.

I havenā€™t put eyes on it yet, other than this pic, but will keep you informed. In the meantime, what say YOU !
 

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Stay on the threadā€¦ Once you cut across the threads any wrong doing is your fault. If you stay on the thread itā€™s not really you problem.

How bad a wrinkle? If you have an area large enough try a dry stretch over tackless and pad. Let it sit a while.
 
Good advice JP thx. ! ā€¦.I made some progress yesterday, now waiting for 1.25ā€ binding tape colors to come in.

Havenā€™t decided on seam trimming method yet ? Buffering buffering šŸ˜œ but The backing appears to have a stabilizing coating on it, so ! Maybe šŸ¤” I could treat it like tufted goods ? I think maybe I should do a test pc.
 

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Good advice JP thx. ! ā€¦.I made some progress yesterday, now waiting for 1.25ā€ binding tape colors to come in.

Havenā€™t decided on seam trimming method yet ? Buffering buffering šŸ˜œ but The backing appears to have a stabilizing coating on it, so ! Maybe šŸ¤” I could treat it like tufted goods ? I think maybe I should do a test pc.
Are you sure that is a Wilton and not an Ax??
 
Are you sure that is a Wilton and not an Ax??
Iā€™m never sure about anything Daris šŸ˜œ but you may be right. I have all of David Huntā€™s Woven booklets, but these weaves are confusing. Now I was able to easily roll the carpet width wise and most Axminsters are not, because of the weft wires.

I did some testing today. It was visually difficult to cut from the back along a weft shot, because the coating obscures the weave. So, I flipped her over, slowly ran a shot, then cut a seam edge on the rough pile sweep side, with the blade on the inside as usual. Note: I lost one cotton weft shot, and had to brush away the lost yarns, however ! The lower cotton weft remained intact and yielded a nice cross grain seam edge. ( see photo) Then I decided to overlap the smooth side and mark every contour of the prepared seam edge and cut from the back using a square as the straight edge. ( see photo) Iā€™m doing this method in order not to create any wrinkles in this loose lay area rug.

Then I sealed that smooth pile sweep, (bastardized edge) that was surprisingly quite sound after sealing with latex. (See photo 3)

Then I did a seam tape fastening test, the cool glide adhesive won šŸ„‡

Finally I burned appx 2ā€™ and hand sew appx 1ā€™ ā€¦. Either method looked good šŸ‘ and Sky Sky approved
 

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I don't think that an Axminister or a Wiltons.... Looks more like a Karastan of some sort but who knows? Hard to be sure.

For an area rug Hand sewing is probably a safer bet. More flexible when getting rolled up and moved around.
 
I agree with JP on that one. You could butter the seam area before cutting it. If you can roll it in the width then its most likely a Wilton.
You mean, be able to roll it in the width and not in the length?
In the length it would be like rolling up with two by six.
I understand at some point they invented Axminster....
...the question is, why did someone not shoot the person that invented it, and why is Axminster still in existence....
...In any form?
 
...the question is, why did someone not shoot the person that invented it, and why is Axminster still in existence....
...In any form?

I would answer because itā€™s a durable construction made with no adhesives to dry out and fail. No secondary backing needed. Unlike tufted goods it could survive a flood. It can be rolled up, sent out to be cleaned, dipped and scrubbed, hung up to dry, and returned in good condition (except for a little shrinkage)ā€¦ And I like old school technologyā€¦šŸ¤“
 
Ditto. Do you have a serging tape option.
Iā€™ve got the 7/8ā€ and 1.25ā€ serging tape folders and have done lots of it in the past, but Iā€™m not a fan. A) if memory serves me, the tape is cotton and the colors fade. B) If the needle hits the connection of the serging, she will sometimes pop loose from the tape. I believe if you want serging, it needs to come off a spool, a real serging machine and be made from polyester.
 
The green one is better, I would like a cream color like the lines in the middle. Gray one is too purple.
I bound 3ea. Sample pieces with 6 different colors. One of them was the cream. Surprisingly he chose a brown, that had a hint of green. The seam turned out good, but not great šŸ˜¢ wearing cheater glasses suck, you feel less coordinated, sorry šŸ˜¢ no completed photo taken.
 
I bound 3ea. Sample pieces with 6 different colors. One of them was the cream. Surprisingly he chose a brown, that had a hint of green. The seam turned out good, but not great šŸ˜¢ wearing cheater glasses suck, you feel less coordinated, sorry šŸ˜¢ no completed photo taken.
You're probably too picky. That's a good trait to have.
 
I bound 3ea. Sample pieces with 6 different colors. One of them was the cream. Surprisingly he chose a brown, that had a hint of green. The seam turned out good, but not great šŸ˜¢ wearing cheater glasses suck, you feel less coordinated, sorry šŸ˜¢ no completed photo taken.
I gave all of my stores I worked with a binding chart with all the numbers I had and told them you pick the color. Even so there were times I disputed the colors but there also times they would oick a color I didn't have and have to order it.
 

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