Extending toe kick of kitchen cabinets

[newbie]

I have engineered oak which I am installing as a floating floor. It is about 5/8" high including a 6mm wear layer.

In the kitchen, the boards will run perpendicular to the kitchen cabinets with ends at the toe skins.

I'd like to extend the toe kick out 3/4" to give the appearance that the wood runs under the cabinets and to include a 1/2" expansion gap.

Is it reasonable to do the following:

1. Take off the toe skins
2. Brad nail a 1x3 as a spacer to the base/ toe kick portion of the cabinet with enough vertical clearance to slip the floor just under the spacer
3. Install the floor to sit 1/4" from the spacer's outer edge
4. Cut the toe skin for the floor height then pin nail the toe skin to the spacer

I haven't read much about this hack. Does it seem reasonable?

Also, do I just use a 1x3 common board?

Thx

 

[JIMMIEM]

I have engineered oak which I am installing as a floating floor. It is about 5/8" high including a 6mm wear layer.

In the kitchen, the boards will run perpendicular to the kitchen cabinets with ends at the toe skins.

I'd like to extend the toe kick out 3/4" to give the appearance that the wood runs under the cabinets and to include a 1/2" expansion gap.

Is it reasonable to do the following:

1. Take off the toe skins
2. Brad nail a 1x3 as a spacer to the base/ toe kick portion of the cabinet with enough vertical clearance to slip the floor just under the spacer
3. Install the floor to sit 1/4" from the spacer's outer edge
4. Cut the toe skin for the floor height then pin nail the toe skin to the spacer

I haven't read much about this hack. Does it seem reasonable?

Also, do I just use a 1x3 common board?

Thx

Assuming the toe skins are 3/4" thick why not just remove 5/8" from the bottom to allow the flooring to slide under 1/4" giving you a 1/2" expansion gap? The cabinet overhang/toe kick space is designed to allow you to stand against the counter with your feet under the overhang....if you want to do the extension put a test piece of 3/4" wood against the existing toe kick and see if it adversely affects the ability to stand comfortably against the counter.

 

[newbie]

The toe skins are about 1/8" thick. I see your point about the overhang design. hmm. Guess I'll need to rethink having a good expansion gap.

 

[JIMMIEM]

The toe skins are about 1/8" thick. I see your point about the overhang design. hmm. Guess I'll need to rethink having a good expansion gap.

If you pull off a toe skin it should be hollow under the cabinet. The sides of the cabinet are what the toe skins are attached to. This hollow will provide plenty of room for expansion. You could cut a 1/2" notch in the sides to provide expansion space where the floor boards would contact the sides.
FWIW the space under kitchen cabinets is basically wasted space.....good place to put a 'bonus' drawer.

 

[newbie]

There is 3/4" toe kick behind the skin but some of it looks to be weight bearing as it has shims underneath. So I didn't want to risk cutting into that. hmm..maybe a bad cabinet install

 

[newbie]

I see now after watching a cabinet installation video that the side pieces are weight bearing but the front is actual toe kick and non-weight bearing. So I could cut the front and have the wood floor jog around the sides.

 

[JIMMIEM]

View attachment 5788

View attachment 5789

There is 3/4" toe kick behind the skin but some of it looks to be weight bearing as it has shims underneath. So I didn't want to risk cutting into that. hmm..maybe a bad cabinet install

Do they look like they are supporting the bottom rail of the cabinet? What is their width 3 or 3 1/2 inches? What is the width of the bottom rail of the cabinet? Can you tell how they are attached?

 

[newbie]

It's super hard to tell because I can't see between the toe kicks. They are all only about 3/4" thick.

I might just go with the 1/8" gap (under the toe skin) for the perpendicular boards. The engineered oak that I have is not expected to expand along the length.

I only have 1 board that will be parallel to the island cabinet. The expansion is more likely to occur along the width for the engineered oak, so I think the parallel board is the only one I need to get creative with. For this one, I may nail the spacer to be on the safe side. Since it is at the end of the island, it may look ok since it will line up with the cabinet skin.

Thx for your help, really appreciate it!

 

[Ernesto]

I just nail up another piece of MDF, then the skin.