First few rows;

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Would it really be possible to push the entire floor? That seems like it would be very difficult if not almost impossible.
It works in perfectly rectangular rooms where you have nothing to cut around or to like doors and the like. It is remarkable how strong the mighty force of leverage really is. Cannot say there should be much need... but need and possibility is not the same thing :)
 
Would it really be possible to push the entire floor? That seems like it would be very difficult if not almost impossible.

The floor will move for sure. This is why you use spacers, to keep the floor from moving while your crawling, installing and tapping the floor during the whole installation process. Simplest thing is to use leverage like Mark said. A pry bar works but make sure you have something behind it so your pry bar doesn’t punch a hole in your wall before the floor moves. 1x4 or I use my 3’ metal straight edge to protect the wall. Whatever you use just make sure it spans a couple studs at least.
 
Hi,

Getting ready to start..question....

Is it ok to leave a large couch and piano in the back 1/3 of room while I do the first 2/3 and then move those items to the completed floor? Or is there a dwell time that heavy items should be left off the floor after completion. This is a click loc bamboo floor.

Thank you
 
Hi,

May be a silly question..but do you cut the tonque and groove off the edges of each plank near the walls for each row? If you leave them, does the expansion gap get measured from the edge of the finished board or the tonque/groove?

Thank you
 
NO! They say to cut the tongue off only on the first row to go against your starting wall
I literally never cut off the tongue on my first row. Only about 1/32-1/64 of it shows anyway. Not enough to warrant putting time into removing for me.
 
NO! They say to cut the tongue off only on the first row to go against your starting wall
I literally never cut off the tongue on my first row. Only about 1/32-1/64 of it shows anyway. Not enough to warrant putting time into removing for me.
Understood...is the expansion gap measured from the tonque or the finshed board edge?
 
Understood...is the expansion gap measured from the tonque or the finshed board edge?
If you leave the little piece of tongue on then from the tongue. If you trim it off then from the board edge.
If I was you I would just go ahead and trim off the sliver of tongue. Might as well keep everything as the manufacturer suggests. Just in case you need to make a claim in the future, those weasels will try to find ANY reason to deny it. Including leaving on a 1/16" tongue.
Carefully cut it off with a sharp utility knife or send it down your table saw to remove it on your first row.
 
Hi,

I'm about 1/2 way done (I'm slow doing other things and working)..anyways a couple of questions.

1. Some of the short edge seams are not "perfectly smooth"..sometimes there a very slight height difference between boards on the short edges, maybe a calling card thickness at the most. Is that expected in the variations of the wood? I can keep trying new boards and can eventially find ones that have almost no differenc. Just wondering if I'm being too picky?

2. The new floor is slightly lower than the existing hardwood. Thus my T-molding rocks down a bit. Before I get too far, how should this be addressed, if at all.

3. Because of the holiday, I'm going out of town for the week. Is it ok to lave it 1/2 done (I really don't have a choice).

Thank you..
 
1. Depends on how picky you are. If it’s just an odd board here n there then you can cull them. If it’s damn near every other board then that’s just how the product is.

2. Angled T- molds is nothing new when joining up to adjacent flooring. How much angle are we talking about? 1/4”? Roll with it. 3/4”? You got a problem.

3. Doesn’t look like you have a choice.
 
Hi, Well, I almost done (except for 4 rows out of 42) and noticed the floor flexing right in the entrance area of the room. I tried to measure flex and its around 0.020 (20 thousands). See picture and video. The video makes it looks worse than what it seems. I think it may be inherent in the foam underlayment. When I press on the flooring near the edge where the T-molding will go..it flexes there also and I can see the underlayment somewhat compress.

I do have access to the floor from below (basement). Is this amount nothing to worry about or will it lead to issues with broken joints. Any tips? Can I drill through the sub floor in the basement and inject something?

Thank you
 

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Most clic floors have instructions. One of our primary “call backs” especially with thin vinyl click floors is this “flexing” . In the instructions MOST floors (all Shaw floors) say something like this -“ the floor must be flat with no dips or undulations over 1/8 inch OVER six , eight, or even TEN feet. If it’s Bimini (designed by an ex Shaw engineer) it’s 1/8 inch over TEN feet, if you have a dip in the floor you are going to have flex. You were supposed to check the floor with a straightedge or level and pour self leveling compound before you attempt plank installation.
You can drill from below squirt something in the hole and hope that after it dries it acts as a flex eliminator. You can take the floor apart and float the subfloor which is what you would HAVE to do if it’s extensive and over concrete.
I have had to repair these flex issues and since I’ve had to repair them I now put a straightedge on EVERY FLOOR I DO. I also charge 300 and up to make a floor flat prior to install.
for the records we here at Ronnies carpets in Florida install thousands of feet of plank every week . We also pour dozens of bags of Mapei self leveling compound every week. I am starting a five day installation tomorrow- the first day will almost assuredly be pouring compound .our customers are picky if the floor goes up and down they don’t like it. We charge a lot for our floors too so not only are you going to have to wait another day ( or week in some cases) for your floor you also are paying me to make it flat on top of the agreed upon installation price.
You also mentioned the *butt edges* weren’t even on some planks or there was a space - something about a business card thickness- THAT sounds like the end joint isn’t quite together . We say side of plank and end of plank instead of “seam” so the end joint is also “butt” joint . If these are exactly put together properly they will be offset/ and or a space will appear between planks . This is not repairable without disassembling the floor. You can take extra pieces and put some together and check but that is what it sounds like to me.

as for transitioning between floors I just installed a premium “water proof “ Shaw product in a previously carpeted area . The adjoining floor was where someone brainiac installed ceramic OVER ceramic now that floor is over an inch transition to 5/16 flooring, so those “t moldings “ are at a steep angle - that customer knew up front what was going to happen but I don’t think they realized until we were done. We sometimes have to use reducers and off label transitions to correct some situations.

now you have learned several valuable lessons you’re on your way to becoming a pro

personally I empty all my rooms so I can evaluate the subfloor we actually pour leveling compound on about 90 % of our jobs we just don’t like taking new floors apart
 
One last trick that is being used lately for undulations that result in @flex” is , there is a wood floor repair kit for this that some have used to repair vinyl, stone core, waterproof and other plank floors (bamboo also I guess) and you literally drill a hole in your new floor inject a liquid and let it harden over night. It’s expensive and you have to come up with a reasonable disguise for the hole. Some guys make a razor knife cut into vinyl lift the edge of the cut drill the hole do the injection press it down later and use seam sealer or pvc glue to “disguise” the hole . On rustic patterns and styles some stick a dowel and literally paint it with lam repair stick. There, you have everything I know about flex
 
@Csason Thank you for the reply ..great and helpful info.

A couple of things..

Re: Flex; In looking at it closer, I really think it is flexing because it is near the entrance (with in 18 inches) where the T molding will go and it is not rigid or supported on the edge where the T-molding goes. When I press on the section that is flexing, I can see the edge (under where the T-molding goes) flex "up". I think if I put a few small screws or nails on the edge under where the T-molding goes, much of the flex will go away. But I'm not sure I want to do that because of limiting expansion? Thoughts? I may also slide a piece of roofing felt paper under and see if that helps.

Re Butt Joints; I'm fairly confident they are put together well. I talked to the vendor and they said the amount I explained is within the tolerance of the product. I went to the store where I bought it and the sample flooring also had some of these high spots. My customer (my wife :) ) says they are fine.

Thank you
 
Hi, All finished except for T-mold. Thank you for everyone's help..I appreciate your feedback. I'm pleased how it came out. One last question in regards to T mold. The old floor is about 3/16 higher. What is the method to attach Tmold? I've read you put a few "globs of glue (maybe 3-4 along the length) under the "T". Its bamboo and rather hard. Would need to drill pilot holes to nail with 4 d nails. Other suggestions?

New topic. I want to replace the carpet on my stairs. What are suggestions of products for a novice ? I was reading about CAP-A-Tread..a laminate? Others?

Thank you
 

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Looks good, congratulations on completing your project!

I wouldn't even bother with nails in the T molding. Cut out the pad that's in that gully and vacuum it out. Then like you said, a few dollops of construction adhesive and some blue tape to hold it in place. 24hrs later you're good to go!
 
Hi,

Back again...I actually had bought enough flooring for two rooms. I have a question in regards to expansion gap at an exterior door. This floor has a set of French doors out to a deck. I have a threshold (see picture) to bridge the gap. My question is; the bottom stub of the thresold fills the 1/2 gap I between the metal thresold and the floor plank. Is that ok? Or should I notch out another quarter inch of the floor plank to have a gap. Hope that made sense.

Thank you
 

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