Floating a flush mount stairnose

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highup

Will work for food
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I've brought this up more than once over the years. If there's another way to do floating a stairnose, ....I mean a flush mount, floating stairnose, I'd love to see it.
I've only done about 4 or 5 of these, and I have never done it the same way twice, but no failures so far................... the first was 15 years ago with Pergo. Each was a learning experience and the widest span was a 4 foot wide stair.

My soon to be record, will be a 12 foot wide flush mount, floating stair nose, that has 22 1/2 degree angles on each side. Yes................. I'm sicker than you ever imagined. :D
This is my bamboo nightmare, where a new floor was installed, and then the home not lived in for a year............. and the heat was turned off. It was buckled pretty bad.

I relived the tension in the floor and the buckles went away...... over a month later, with the heat on, the floor has not shrunk back one single bit................ I mean not even the width of a line printed on a tape measure. Wow..................... I figured it might have at least moved (shrunk) back an eighth in 6 weeks, but nope.............. It grew, and has stayed that way.......................... We are talking a 41 foot span, not a small room.
My plan is to replace the last two boards near the stair nose, then attach the stair nose to the floor in a way that allows it to move, but only horizontally.
If you trip on a star nose while going up the step, you don't want that to happen because the nosing is loose and wiggles or flops up and down.
My method secures the nose gently to the final plank, and also to a modified and detached portion of the underlayment in a way that only allows it to move only in a horizontal plane.............. about quarter of an inch in any direction. Virtually no movement vertically.

Here's a drawing of the room itself to better describe my concerns about expansion. 41 feet from wall to wall is a game changer for a flush mount stair nose. The approximate 15 feet of stair nose is shown at the top of the drawing.

Layout with description.jpg
 
Here's a drawing of the idea. Basically, the last 5 or 6 inch portion of the underlayment is removed, then narrowed about 1/4 of an inch and it's reattached to the subfloor by loosely fitting a small diameter screw inside a larger diameter hole.

The small screw centered in the large hole is what allows the horizontal movement. When the narrowed section of underlayment is reinstalled, the washer and screw are tightened ever so slightly so that this piece will still be able to easily move horizontally but not vertically.
Here's an image that might help describe how it works.

You can see a 1/4 inch gap between the existing underlayment and the narrowed down, and movable section at the lower left. The nose and 1/2 of the last flooring plank are glued to that movable section. It can now move any direction except up and down.

This isn't about how much the effort will cost................ It's about can it be done.

The bamboo that I'm using doesn't have an overlapping stair nose.............. the only molding they sell is a flush mount.

Finished drawing of Bandon Bamboo floating bulnose.jpg
 
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That comes up each time I do one of these. My brain has been working on a universal system for a long, long, long time. What I am doing here is pretty involved for most applications. I got's ideas, but the hardware stores don't have a parts match to what is lurking deep within the crevices of my brain. :D
I'm thinking it needs to be done fast and simple.
 
Then just order an overlap and be done wit it

They don't make one for this floor.

If you thought when in the previous reply, I said:

"I'm thinking it needs to be done fast and simple. "

...........that I was referring to this current job. I was not.

That statement was simply in reference to patenting a process to do this procedure in a way that the average floor hack would be capable of doing. :D
 
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Too late I already sent in my copyright. :p

............and I have dated photos of the jobs that I've done this on.
and copied your comments on this topic. :p
My lawyers have it all on file. If you don't believe me, feel free to contact Dewy, Cheetem, and Houw Attorneys at Law, 55B-R549 :D
 
To add insult, the nose arrived this morning and it's an overlap. I called the company to bitch, and was told the only molding they make for this floor is an overlap nose.
I called a week and a half ago and the guy I talked to said the only nose they make for this floor was a flush mount. :mad::mad::mad:

Well................ it's still gonna be a flush mount when I get done with it. Since it can't be done as planned with two grooves and a spline, it's gonna get done with two rabbits and a spline.................... and Bostiks Best. ..........maybe a few fasteners and weights to hold it while the adhesive sets.

Revised rabbit 800.jpg
 
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I plan on a smaller rabbit on the plank side than the one that comes on the nose. I'm using Bosticks Best so no moisture issues affecting the material. The Nose has a full 1/4 inch on the overlap side, so there's plenty of strength once it's all glued together. I'll make a tiny allowance in the spline clearance for the adhesive.
 
I'm gaining on the project. Gonna wrap it up tomorrow. Everything is done, cut and fits nice. I'm about ready to glue.

I have an adhesive question. Do I really need a "wood floor" adhesive like BosticK's Best to connect the stair nose to the first plank. I was thinking of using Chemrex 948 instead.
I'm thinking that the Chemrex would make the coupling of these three pieces more rigid. It doesn't need the flexibility that's required when gluing the whole floor.
I penny for your thoughts?
Only the parts in blue will be connected. The entire mass, once done will float, including the parts in blue. I'm just wondering if those parts might be better connected using a more rigid adhesive than Bosticks.
Chemrex sets up faster and is easier and less messy to apply. The section that the nose and last plank will be glued to is a 5 inch section of 5/8 plywood.

Revised rabbit glue in blue areas.jpg
 
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One other thing. I have a spline all made and ready to go. It's made of Hem/fir. I don't see much incompatibility since all it does is support the overlap of the stair nose. It's basically filler.
 
I'd use a fast setting epoxy so I could get the hell outsa there afap unless your planning on staying for dinner too.
 
I'd use a fast setting epoxy so I could get the hell outsa there afap unless your planning on staying for dinner too.

Fast? You said, "fast" ?
Um, you do know who you are talking to, right? :D
Do they make a sorta fast epoxy? Like 1 hour instead of 5 minute? Too late anyway I'm committed to do something, even if it's wrong. Then again, with what I'm doing, there probably isn't a "correct way"

...........film at 11:00
 
I said film at 11:00, right? Lost my connection while the images were loading and had to reboot. Hey, I tried. :D

I have more photos of the technical details, but here's the project with the pieces all fit and in place. I got it all glued today, and have it all weighted down. I'll remove the weights and do cleanup tomorrow, but it's actually all done now.
Hardest part now is figuring out a bill for them. Hourly, and with trip charges and $30 in supplies, it would be about $1,250 :eek:
Tho they never asked a price, if they had, I would have guessed 1/2 that amount. I need to figure out something fair to them and me.
Creating a flush mount floating nose is more about designing and engineering than cutting and fitting. Tho I've done a handful of floating flush mounts like this over the years, none have been remotely close in difficulty to this one. It's width and angles made it a lot more of a challenge than I expected it to be.

FH000002 completed look800.jpg


FH000003_Completed look 2filtered 800.jpg
 
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Looks Good Hi.

You're in Business . Charge them , and you will still be cheaper then a store .

Find a store that can re-create this. :D

I'll try tonight to put all the "how to" images in the photos section, in a way that better explains what I did.
 
Long time listener, first time caller... so glad I found this - great job, highup! I'm installing a Cali Bamboo 9/16 inch thick click lock floating floor in our home soon, and I've been wondering about the same thing - I hate the look of the floating stair nose. However, my stairnose will meet planks that run perpendicular to it, vs parallel. the good news is that the length from the stairnose to the wall is only about 8 feet. Its about 1/3 of the way parallel to the nearest wall in a distance that is about 30 or 35 feet. Any suggestions?
 

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