Help a newbie do this right the first time

[Cobrakillerta]

I just bought my first home last February which needed a bit of updating. The house was built in 1964 and is mostly all original. Besides the basics, I've redone the kitchen myself (new tile floor, new cabinet doors/drawers and sprayed cabinets) as well as a 1/2 bath....My house is built on a concrete slab and I'm right near the water on the south shore of Long Island with many canals/etc. in the area.

The main entryway is an area of about 425 sq/ft (13x13 section, leading into a 11.5x19.5 section and a 5.5x5.5 cutout on the right going into the kitchen and bath). The current flooring is slate tiles leading into ugly blue carpet. I'm ready to rip up both floors and put down hardwood in the entire area.
I measured the moisture of the slab in different locations with a handheld meter to be at 14%.

Yesterday I ordered Harris Traditions SpringLoc engineered in the Red Oak Colonial finish.

My questions are as follows...
1. How long does the flooring need to acclimate before being installed?

2. Since I have a long straight run of 32.5' is a 3/8" gap appropriate?

3. Before I lay the first row, how should I go about measuring the area? Do I just lay the first row 3/8" off the wall and just lay right across or is there adjusting to do?

4. After I rip up the slate and carpet, how should I go about prepping the slab, removing all the glue etc that may be left behind?

5. I was looking at first laying down a 6mil vapor barrier.
What is the correct way of doing this? How far up the walls do I go? What do you guys recommend to use exactly, just regular poly sheeting or is there something better? Is there a preferred tape and method for the seems? How much should I overlap the seems?

6. My next planned step is going with the Roberts 3 in 1 "Airguard" underlayment as it seems to get good reviews, unless you guys recommend something better? Should I lay the 6mil vapor barrier and the underlayment in opposite directions?

I figure the 6mil vapor barrier and then the underlayment with the built in vapor barrier would give me added insurance against moisture.

Any insight and info you could give me is greatly appreciated!
I can't wait to get this done and finally finish this entryway

 

[havasu]

I just bought my first home last February which needed a bit of updating. The house was built in 1964 and is mostly all original. Besides the basics, I've redone the kitchen myself (new tile floor, new cabinet doors/drawers and sprayed cabinets) as well as a 1/2 bath....My house is built on a concrete slab and I'm right near the water on the south shore of Long Island with many canals/etc. in the area.

The main entryway is an area of about 425 sq/ft (13x13 section, leading into a 11.5x19.5 section and a 5.5x5.5 cutout on the right going into the kitchen and bath). The current flooring is slate tiles leading into ugly blue carpet. I'm ready to rip up both floors and put down hardwood in the entire area.
I measured the moisture of the slab in different locations with a handheld meter to be at 14%.

Yesterday I ordered Harris Traditions SpringLoc engineered in the Red Oak Colonial finish.

My questions are as follows...
1. How long does the flooring need to acclimate before being installed? I would personally contact the manufacturer or read what they recommend with instructions that should be in the boxes.

2. Since I have a long straight run of 32.5' is a 3/8" gap appropriate? Yes, the idea is to allow expansion but be hidden from view under your baseboard or quarter round.

3. Before I lay the first row, how should I go about measuring the area? Do I just lay the first row 3/8" off the wall and just lay right across or is there adjusting to do? There are various methods, which should be described in detail by the manufacturer. There are also other concerns about where to start, which are covered in other threads in this forum. The primary concern is to make sure you leave a 3/8" expansion, even if you need a small block of wood to keep consistent, which can be removed after installation.

4. After I rip up the slate and carpet, how should I go about prepping the slab, removing all the glue etc that may be left behind? Depends on how bad the existing flooring is. At the very least you should use a scraper making sure the glue is removed along with the remaining residue. Take some pics after you remove the existing flooring, and we will provide ideas for you.

5. I was looking at first laying down a 6mil vapor barrier.
What is the correct way of doing this? How far up the walls do I go? What do you guys recommend to use exactly, just regular poly sheeting or is there something better? Is there a preferred tape and method for the seems? How much should I overlap the seems? I would purchase a good quality underlayment, and follow their instructions exactly. Many have specific requirements which need to be followed exactly.

6. My next planned step is going with the Roberts 3 in 1 "Airguard" underlayment as it seems to get good reviews, unless you guys recommend something better? Should I lay the 6mil vapor barrier and the underlayment in opposite directions? Refer to the manufacture's instructions.

I figure the 6mil vapor barrier and then the underlayment with the built in vapor barrier would give me added insurance against moisture. Doubling a moisture barrier doesn't make it twice as protected. The manufacturer may void any warranty if the underlayment isn't installed as directed, so don't overthink this.

Any insight and info you could give me is greatly appreciated!
I can't wait to get this done and finally finish this entryway

Please take pics and keep us informed of your progress!

 

[Ernesto]

Which meter is that you used to take readings of the concrete? My Tramex CME only goes to 6.

Also on the underlayment/vapor retarder, many manufacturers of underlayment recommend performing a CaCl test and or ASTM F-2170-11. And....if you feel moisture readings might be to elevated 6 mil plastic is always recommended under 2&1 underlayments. I do it all the time, wrap it up 1 to 2 inches up the wall. It is when you use two layers of the 2&1 is when you get into trouble.

 

[Cobrakillerta]

The moisture meter I used was a General Tools MMD4E...I know it's a very basic and inexpensive meter but, being on a ground level slab I knew I'd have a higher moisture content and figured it would give me a rough idea. It read 14% in various spots.
I guess I'll pick up a basic Calcium test kit so I can get a solid reading.

I called Roberts, whom is under the same parent company (QEP) as Harris and being familiar with the Engineered flooring I'll be using they suggested a 6mil vapor barrier and then the 3 in 1 "Airguard" underlayment of theirs which I mentioned in my op.


Is there anything special I should be using as the 6mil vapor barrier? Do I need something like the Roberts "Moisture Barricade" vapor barrier?

 

[Ernesto]

The moisture meter I used was a General Tools MMD4E...I know it's a very basic and inexpensive meter but, being on a ground level slab I knew I'd have a higher moisture content and figured it would give me a rough idea. It read 14% in various spots.
I guess I'll pick up a basic Calcium test kit so I can get a solid reading.

I called Roberts, whom is under the same parent company (QEP) as Harris and being familiar with the Engineered flooring I'll be using they suggested a 6mil vapor barrier and then the 3 in 1 "Airguard" underlayment of theirs which I mentioned in my op.


Is there anything special I should be using as the 6mil vapor barrier? Do I need something like the Roberts "Moisture Barricade" vapor barrier?

I heard the 6 mil black or grey is recycled and not as good of a perm rating. Could be a myth. I like to use clear anyway. Plus packing tape for seams.

 

[FloorMaven]

I heard the 6 mil black or grey is recycled and not as good of a perm rating. Could be a myth. I like to use clear anyway. Plus packing tape for seams.

Supposed to be virgin plastic sheeting but yeah could be a myth.

I figure the 6mil vapor barrier and then the underlayment with the built in vapor barrier would give me added insurance against moisture. Doubling a moisture barrier doesn't make it twice as protected. The manufacturer may void any warranty if the underlayment isn't installed as directed, so don't overthink this.

Not sure how accurate this answer is as quietwalk recommends an additional sheeting.

You have a house on a slab in where...the Lindenhurst area?

 

[Cobrakillerta]

Supposed to be virgin plastic sheeting but yeah could be a myth.



Not sure how accurate this answer is as quietwalk recommends an additional sheeting.

You have a house on a slab in where...the Lindenhurst area?

Ok, so any clear 6mil sheeting, say from a big box store would suffice?
I'm sure I can find better pricing online

I'm about 15 miles east of Lindenhurst in Oakdale

 

[FloorMaven]

Ok, so any clear 6mil sheeting, say from a big box store would suffice?
I'm sure I can find better pricing online

I'm about 15 miles east of Lindenhurst in Oakdale

1000 sf at lowes for about $55.

I just spent a week across the bay on Fire Island at Atlantique. Hung out at the Oakdale yacht club as well.

I worked there for 14 years and I don't remember many on grade slabs on Long Island. Levitown being the most prominent and never encountered a naturally occurring moisture issue there. Broken pipes, yes. Below grade was always an issue with moisture mostly due to the high water table. MVE tends to be very stable on LI due to the fact that the climate is classified as sub-tropical. The air is as wet or more so than the ground most of the time so there's very little movement. Plus, the soil, especially on the south shore is a couple feet of top soil then sand. Long Island is a 23 mile X 115 mile sand bar. The soil drainage is good, make sure you have good drainage away from the house, go with the 6 mil and the 3-in-1 and you'll (IMnotsoHO) be fine.

More beach.

 

[Cobrakillerta]

1000 sf at lowes for about $55.

I just spent a week across the bay on Fire Island at Atlantique. Hung out at the Oakdale yacht club as well.

I worked there for 14 years and I don't remember many on grade slabs on Long Island. Levitown being the most prominent and never encountered a naturally occurring moisture issue there. Broken pipes, yes. Below grade was always an issue with moisture mostly due to the high water table. MVE tends to be very stable on LI due to the fact that the climate is classified as sub-tropical. The air is as wet or more so than the ground most of the time so there's very little movement. Plus, the soil, especially on the south shore is a couple feet of top soil then sand. Long Island is a 23 mile X 115 mile sand bar. The soil drainage is good, make sure you have good They hold the dog for 6 months?drainage away from the house, go with the 6 mil and the 3-in-1 and you'll (IMnotsoHO) be fine.

More beach.

That all eases my mind a bit, I figured being on a slab and so close to the water was going to be a huge problem. I'm glad you know LI well enough to know all of this, looks like you also ha fun here recently, I love it out here!

Could you recommend a certain underlayment? Is that Roberts "Airguard" 3 in 1 any good?...I figured that since Roberts and Harris are both under QEP that they would complement each other and also help if any warranty issues arise

 

[Cobrakillerta]

Ok, so the flooring was delivered last Friday 8/10 and it looks great, I can't wait to put it down.

I did a CaCl test and wound up with 6.4lbs. of absorption. It had poured buckets all day & night for those 62 hours of the test, humidity was at 93% the day I concluded the test!

Will a 6 mil barrier and 3-in-1 be good for me?
As stupid as it sounds, I'm having a tough time finding clear 6mil???
Can anyone recommend an online retailer for that?