hot glue gun for ceiling seams.

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highup

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I'm on my second orcon gun. It's a 100 watt gun and basically I like it
That said, however if you lay the gun down on its side for sure period of time and it cools off, the glue will flow backwards towards the silicone jacket will you install a new glue stick. Somehow it seems to heat up the adhesive near the silicone and rather than the tip end and it will cause the silicone to be pushed out backwards instead of through the tip.
The orcon, 100 watt hot glue gun is a very decent priced gun.
It's a 100 watt gun and I like that better than the 80 watt gun.
What hot glue guns do you guys use?
 

DarisMulkin

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I have maybe 10 different guns that I use for different things. But for general use I like the Crain gun because of the trigger handle. I makes for a great cord wrap when finished. I've had it for years. I also got Pnuematich Hysol ones that takes chubs instead of sticks, one is even one that sprays the glue that stays tacky for a period of time.
High you have to think hot melt is like water when it is hot, it will flow every which way and the inside of your gun is like a barrel without a lid so if the gun is laying down it will flow backwards and if on the stand you will notice it coming out the nozzel. To bad there isn't a positive stop when not pulling the trigger.
 

MSLI

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Crain 80 watts......just adhered a split refrigerator seal using the Pam sticks 😃 I put that shiitake on everything 😜. ...... but here I go again, just recently went back to white sealer, ( acrylic or latex ) as the poor lamination needs an adhesive that gets into the nooks and crannies ( who wants a Thomas’s English muffin now ! 😜 )
 

JCobb

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I use an old Pam tite hot melt gun if I need lots of glue. I recently bought a cordless one, but it is only good for small repairs and cove base corners. Handy, because I don’t have to hunt for a plug.
 

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highup

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I have maybe 10 different guns that I use for different things. But for general use I like the Crain gun because of the trigger handle. I makes for a great cord wrap when finished. I've had it for years. I also got Pnuematich Hysol ones that takes chubs instead of sticks, one is even one that sprays the glue that stays tacky for a period of time.
High you have to think hot melt is like water when it is hot, it will flow every which way and the inside of your gun is like a barrel without a lid so if the gun is laying down it will flow backwards and if on the stand you will notice it coming out the nozzel. To bad there isn't a positive stop when not pulling the trigger.
This one?
 

highup

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I have that gun... it is the worst thing I have ever owned. Then I bought a pam gun and saw the light.
Is the Pam gun adjustable heatwise? I thought it was much hotter than a standard gun and I don't need that.
 

highup

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Do Pam guns take special tips only made by them or do they take any standard tip?
 

highup

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Which gun and how much? I'd buy 2 $35 guns over a 15-year period before I spend $130 on a fancy gun that does basically the same thing.
This problem has made me unscrew the gun and clear the clog possibly three different times over the 15 years that I've owned them.
Typically, after unplugging the gun I'll wait a minute or so and then give the trigger a couple of pulls so as the gun is cooling it has part of a new stick inside the chamber.
 

highup

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This must be the reason that you can't push the glue stick in. I think inside that silicone inlet area there are some ribs. If any glue gets past those ribs and hardens it can't be reheated to allow the glue stick to move forward.
I'm thinking it would be better if that silicone inlet was smooth.
The gun works now so I'm not going to tear it apart to see what goes on inside that silicone piece.
 

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highup

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One other thought. I made my own edge sealing tip a long time ago. It's worn over time. I seem to recall using the Orcon tip and it felt as if the check ball had a hard time opening up. If it doesn't open up, then the glue has to squeeze out the inlet.
I do always try to keep the gun in the upright position.
The orcon tip has a nylon washer. It might behave as an insulator. I may get some thin, shim type washers to replace the nylon, so I can tighten up the tip in the ideal orientation. Getting rid of the nylon would mean better heat transfer ...that, plus I could have the tip screwed tighter with the correct thickness washer.
 

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