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I wanted to know how to cut it, like what tool could I use to cut it and get through the thickness of the linoleum? And hopefully cut it straight.
With any luck if it's a new or linoleum and has no asbestos in it and the installer didn't use the correct adhesive, the stuff might just lift right off the floor. If not, and it comes up difficult, you might want to lay a 6 ft long straight edge of some sort on the floor and make a slice every 4 inches. Then using a handheld razor scraper, you try and peel up one 4-in section at a time. Once you score a line with a straight edge you can set this straight edge aside and make a couple of more cuts to get deep enough to go all the way through the material. It's less than 1/8 of an inch thick not a quarter inch thick. If it's warm in the house it will cut much easier than if it's cold.
Just try cutting a 2-in wide by 6 in wide strip starting at the doorway and try and scrape it up with a semi-sharp chisel. That will give you some indication as to how much effort it will take to remove the rest of the floor.
 
Don’t think they were ring shanks. Blue nails is what I ran into a lot of for old installations. Made for real nice demo cus you cut the Lino along the underlayment seams and you could damn near pull up entire sheets. Newer installs will be stapled. Not so fun.
 
I would have thought smooth side up as well but I could see why one might have a problems with some adhesives sticking. I would think multi purpose would stick to just about anything though.
 
Interesting read on how hardboard (Masonite) is made. Apparently not all hardboard is the same. Might be why some adhesives didn’t stick. Could be the adhesive itself as well. Hardboard was before my time so aside from ripping it out occasionally I really don’t know much about it and how it installs.

https://harborsales.net/Portals/0/docs/hardboard_what_is_it.pdf
 
Don’t think they were ring shanks. Blue nails is what I ran into a lot of for old installations. Made for real nice demo cus you cut the Lino along the underlayment seams and you could damn near pull up entire sheets. Newer installs will be stapled. Not so fun.
I used to use full spread epoxy and ring shanks. 😱
If you visited one of my installs you'll remember it for the rest of your life. 😁
 
I used to use full spread epoxy and ring shanks. 😱
If you visited one of my installs you'll remember it for the rest of your life. 😁

highup I wonder why you would use one of the most expensive glues on the market? Way back 50 odd years ago we used any old cheap glue and little panel bins which bent all the time, the reason for the glue one didnt need as many nails as the glue would hold the board down. Along came those staplers which you hit with a big rubber hammer, it hurt when you hit you wrist, but the gluing went the door as stapling was quicker
 
highup I wonder why you would use one of the most expensive glues on the market? Way back 50 odd years ago we used any old cheap glue and little panel bins which bent all the time, the reason for the glue one didnt need as many nails as the glue would hold the board down. Along came those staplers which you hit with a big rubber hammer, it hurt when you hit you wrist, but the gluing went the door as stapling was quicker
I forgot to put a 😁 there Jon.
I don't glue down underlayments. 😁
 

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