Laminate on crawlspace access door.

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Fishnfool

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I'll be putting laminate down on the access cut out and wondering what the best procedure is? I'm installing 12mm pergo, the access is in a walk-in closet. I've heard that the laminate can be glued down and picture frame some transition strip around it. I might glue the transiting as well and shoot some 2" brads to secure the transition really good around it. Will mount a sunken pull handle in center over laminate.

Is my plan ok?

Thanks.
 

Don Monfils

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There is a company that makes a real nice trim kit for trap doors.
It is called Johnny corners.
Normally when you try to Picture frame any type of metal around a trap door opening you have sharp edges which could cut someone's feet.
This is a real nice product
http://jonnycorners.com/
this is a luxury vinyl tile that we did in a church. The opening was Cut out of square but it still looked real niceView attachment ImageUploadedByFlooring Forum1490658307.166398.jpg
 

kwfloors

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Was thinking of using them on a door I'm doing. Checked our t metal to the samples we had and the Johnny corners are too big. Don't know if they have gold ones either.
 

highup

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Was thinking of using them on a door I'm doing. Checked our t metal to the samples we had and the Johnny corners are too big. Don't know if they have gold ones either.
I did one not too long ago and it may not be the right way but it worked out well. It was in a master bedroom closet. The installer hacked in the material with a hatchet and didn't even line up the planks on the access panel with the planks on the floor they were about half a plank out of alignment.
I bought a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and made it perfectly square but I also oversized it each direction by at least an eighth of an inch so I could recut the edges.
I installed the baby threshold style of trim for that material. It's the one you'd normally put in place if you wanted to tuck carpet against it.
No matter what you do they're still going to be a gap doing it this way but you can adjust the height of the access panel with shims to give it a better look.
You also have to cut the opening in the floor flawlessly square and even. I use a piece of plywood as a guide and recut the opening using my Fein tool. Slow process but it turned out well. To shim the three-quarter inch plywood access panel to the best height I stapled pieces of ratchet strap to the joists to slightly raise the access panel.
Customer was thrilled as thrilled gets. Before doing this, you would have to check the profile of a matching trim to be sure the radius on the edge allowed this to look satisfactory.
I trimmed the opening in the floor perfectly even and square with my multi tool, then I fit the planks on the access panel cutting them back enough to allow the trim to be installed.
The trim is fit to within a 16th of an inch all the way around the hatch. You have to leave a tiny bit of slop so the hats can be lifted out.
I didn't install the old beat up handle from the old hatch. Instead, since this will rarely if ever be lifted out of the floor. I drilled 1/8 inch hole in the intersection of the joints towards the back of the hatch. I told the homeowner if they ever need to lift the hatch out just put a drywall screw in the hole to lift it out. There's no reason to put a big chrome or brass handle on one of these panels because... ....well, they just never get removed.
 

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Tile Tom

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Glue the laminate and trim with the johnny corners for the win!

They come in a few different colors but I usually go with whatever the door handles are in the space. Usually brushed nickel or black. I really hate the gold and silver metal look.
 

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