leveling floor for laminate

[highup]

Looks like it's pretty even steven there buddy. I think all you needed was to sheath the entire addition, maybe some mud under the lowest spot.

If you refer to photo #1, it's misleading. The trait edge is not 'level'. It's actually pointing up hill. That's an outside wall opening you are looking at, and the floor is saggin in the old part. The straight edge is only showing a parallel line, not a level line.
The fill I made came out 'level'
The contractor was not going to add another layer to the entire room. It's a lot larger than it looks. 12 by 24 plus the walk in closet. 12 by 7. Plus, the area I fixed was the only area that needed a fix.
Lousy contractor, and cheap............ but I charged good for the repair work and got paid.

 

[highup]

To get a better handle, what are the dimensions at 1, 2 and 3, and A, B and C. ....approximately off the top of your head.
If I understand, 5 feet in at (A) is OK and where the leveling would start?
Hee hee, I used the MS Paint program as maybe you can tell from my scribbling with a mouse. I can do better, but hey, it's fast.

 

[highup]

I am so dumb , I don't know if that was a joke or an actual product. Either way it went over my head.
Sorry? Maybe that was your point? Lol

Video wasn't workin good for me, but looks like a self leveler being applied.
My only concern is a floor filler's water content possibly delaminating the top layer of the luan.
If an oil based sealer/primer like KillZ was applied before the filler, that would help control the moisture/delamination issue. You look like you still need to use plywood for a partial filler at least in the place that you marked as 5/8" off, then screed from that new plywood surface to finish it off.

 

[Ken]

Good lord that's a buttload of levelor!

 

[Ernesto]

If you refer to photo #1, it's misleading. The trait edge is not 'level'. It's actually pointing up hill. That's an outside wall opening you are looking at, and the floor is saggin in the old part. The straight edge is only showing a parallel line, not a level line.
The fill I made came out 'level'
The contractor was not going to add another layer to the entire room. It's a lot larger than it looks. 12 by 24 plus the walk in closet. 12 by 7. Plus, the area I fixed was the only area that needed a fix.
Lousy contractor, and cheap............ but I charged good for the repair work and got paid.

If I could see your straight edge at the middle of the apex of the transition from ply to patch I might believe you. But it is only sitting on the patch.

 

[OldHome]

You drew on my picture !!! Dame you! Lol,
1 and 2 are 1/8 or less, 3 is flat. A and B are flat, C progresses along a wall that spans from the 5/8 dip, to 5/16 to 3/16 each of the measurements are approx. 2feet apart.
I never knew that math I was going to have to use. Lol

 

[FloorMaven]

My only concern is a floor filler's water content possibly delaminating the top layer of the luan.
If an oil based sealer/primer like KillZ was applied before the filler, that would help control the moisture/delamination

The SLC has its own primer. The problem here is analysis paralysis.

 

[highup]

If I could see your straight edge at the middle of the apex of the transition from ply to patch I might believe you. But it is only sitting on the patch.

Hard for you southwestern slab people to understand, but stick built floors can sag in the middle, rarely a the foundation wall. The middle of the room settles.
See, the middle is the previous exterior foundation wall?
The new addition on the right side was 14 feet wide and 60 feet long. The contractor messed up in the middle of the house around this opening. There was either a sag in the new section or the new outside wall was higher than the old one at this point in the span, creating an upward slope. I just evened it out. This is an old job, not recent. New addition was 10 years ago???
Contractor might have been trying to match his new foundation to the wavy old foundation. I have no clue.

The original contractor and the new contractor were both slobs in accuracy and workmanship. I did the flooring installation in the original home 16 to 18 years ago if I had to guess. It was a total nightmare to level out the underlayment in that place to install Pergo to acceptable levels.

 

[highup]

The SLC has its own primer. The problem here is analysis paralysis.

I didn't think he was liking the SLC option. I am referring to screeding out some floor patch.

 

[highup]

You drew on my picture !!! Dame you! Lol,
1 and 2 are 1/8 or less, 3 is flat. A and B are flat, C progresses along a wall that spans from the 5/8 dip, to 5/16 to 3/16 each of the measurements are approx. 2feet apart.
I never knew that math I was going to have to use. Lol

Yup, and I drew on it again...................... Hope I don't get sued for a copy-write infringement.

On the upper part, I'd put a bucket of floor patch (gray) on the floor by the wall and pull the screed bar of choice (heavy black line) in the direction of the arrow. First pass doesn't need to be perfect, but don't overfill it, creating a hump, because the filler is hard to sand down after it's hard. Better to make a second pass than overfill on the first attempt.
A second pass (after the first one has set up) can be easier to get right since you will already be relatively close. I'm guessin from your description that it will take most of a #25 bag to do that fill.
I suppose you could do the middle part of the fill with 1/4 inch plywood if you like the idea of plywood better.

 

[highup]

You drew on my picture !!! Dame you! Lol,
1 and 2 are 1/8 or less, 3 is flat. A and B are flat, C progresses along a wall that spans from the 5/8 dip, to 5/16 to 3/16 each of the measurements are approx. 2feet apart.
I never knew that math I was going to have to use. Lol

OK, now the lower half. Is this in relatively in the ballpark? If so, I am guessin the 3/16" and 5'16" dots are a lot farther away from the 5/8" dot. My perspective wasn't working very well when I was adding the numbers and dots.
I put black dots along the wall where I think you meant these measurements were located.
I outlined in red where I think you meant the floor is OK, or is flat.

How am I doin?

OK, now the big one.
...is there a doorway located in this lower section where it's up to 5/8" low? (I hope not)

 

[Ernesto]

Hard for you southwestern slab people to understand, but stick built floors can sag in the middle, rarely a the foundation wall. The middle of the room settles.
See, the middle is the previous exterior foundation wall?
The new addition on the right side was 14 feet wide and 60 feet long. The contractor messed up in the middle of the house around this opening. There was either a sag in the new section or the new outside wall was higher than the old one at this point in the span, creating an upward slope.

Sounds contradictory, middle is not on the exterior wall.

Adding all that weight is going to just make it sag more me thinks.

 

[highup]

Sounds contradictory, middle is not on the exterior wall.

Adding all that weight is going to just make it sag more me thinks.

The middle support I sketched WAS the exterior wall. The new exterior wall is on the right. This was a new addition.

Adding all that weight is going to just make it sag more me thinks

Two bags of filler will do that? My main fills were done by using plywood.

Just trust me (you have no choice here)

 

[Ernesto]

Hard for you southwestern slab people to understand, but stick built floors can sag in the middle, rarely a the foundation wall. The middle of the room settles.

I'm just trying to understand, don't get upset!

 

[Ken]

If the floor is that out of whack, you're going to have to have it jacked up. You shouldnt be doing THAT much leveling.

 

[highup]

I'm just trying to understand, don't get upset!

Not upset at all.......... just settin ya straight.

 

[Ken]

It seems to me that someone asking for help from professionals is in no position to set ANYONE straight. Is this a DIY project or a job for a customer?

 

[highup]

If the floor is that out of whack, you're going to have to have it jacked up. You shouldnt be doing THAT much leveling.

If the old foundation was out of whack because of settling or a sloppy builder, and the new foundation wall was set straight and not blended in very well by a sloppy builder, then me, the good old floor guy is not going to allow a builder to make the floor right.
It ain't purdy, but the floor feels flat as a flapjack. Wow, did I just coin a new one?

 

[Ken]

My apologies. I understand now. I'm still voting for the henry patch.

 

[Ken]

I should have figured that a DIY wouldn't have over a thousand posts. So sorry for the assumption.