Lino for use as filler

Flooring Forum - DIY & Professional

Help Support Flooring Forum - DIY & Professional:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

highup

Will work for food
Supporting Member
Pro
Joined
Mar 6, 2011
Messages
17,896
Location
,
Job is a strip wood floor covered in a white felt, then tar paper, then VAT. A few rows of tile loosened and buckled after a water leak and it's all dried out now......... it's been months since that occurred.
With two or three rows of the tile removed, I'm wondering if I could replace it with lino. I'm wondering if the lino would accept filler, or if the linseed oils in it would keep the filler from adhering.
The lino would only be used as a filler material, to replace tiles that were removed, and then some floor patch would be used to blend and feather the repaired floor to accept some IVC type vinyl.
 
I'm thinking too. I'm thinking that some old dried out lino would be a better material to adhere to.................. but I was told that is old lino is on backorder and won't arrive in time. :D

Todays vinyl floors want to curl, and I need something thick to inset into where the old tile was removed.............. I dunno, maybe some door skins or 1/8" plywood fully glued to the substrate.
 
Why not planipatch with additive. Sticks to anything.

The base is old T&G fir floor. I need something slightly stable to put back on the T&G before doing a patch.
The floor should have had at least 1/2 inch plywood layed down before the new vinyl was initially installed. Had that been done, the floor wouldn't have buckled, needing this hokey repair.
 
Why not just fill it in with vct? But knowing how you operate you probably already got the Yob done

Daris

Material won;t be here for a week. This thick IVC type material was glued down wet, so its stuck good. Removing the old and leaving a good seam edge is gonna be fun. The two patches will probably be at least 2 feet by 14 feet each.
 
I have some peel an stick anti-fracture membrane for tile that would stick to the fir. Want me to Fed-X some? :D

Then I'd make a jig outa some wood, notched to the depth you need to be at when you install the flooring. Unless it is less than 18 inches, iI use an 18" steel patching trowel thats notched on the end/s
 
I have some peel an stick anti-fracture membrane for tile that would stick to the fir. Want me to Fed-X some? :D

Then I'd make a jig outa some wood, notched to the depth you need to be at when you install the flooring. Unless it is less than 18 inches, iI use an 18" steel patching trowel thats notched on the end/s

Fed-X yourself too and show me how it's all done.

I have some ideas in my head on prepping the area directly next to the seams. My router and a precise depth setting comes to mind, to remove the vinyl near the seam edges. The router and a 3/4 inch bit might be more precise and quicker than hand scraping. A perfect depth setting on the router would save the existing filler from any damage. A quick test of this idea will tell me if this idea is goofy as all get-out, or pure genius. :D

That seam area will be really difficult because when removing the old layers, I do not want to score into the existing skim coat/filler and weaken it where I will join on the new material at the seam.
The wet set adhesive has bonded extremely well to the skim coat.............. probably much stronger then the skim coat to VAT bond........... I am thinking that this will be my big issue when cutting the floor open for surgery and trying to create the new seams. I dont want my actions to debongd the filler from the VAT.
Vinyl bond to filler = very strong.
Filler bond to substrate = not nearly as strong.

The depth of the existing filler/skim coat is not consistent in it's depth along its 14 foot length, so I can't just start ripping things apart. I need to remove only the vinyl without damaging or gouging the existing skim coat. This is gonna be surgery, not floor repair. :rolleyes:

I will do a couple of small trials at some point prior to actually doing the repair. I need to remove the vinyl and not damage the skimcoat along the seam area. If I do, then I will need to float in filler to bring the seam edges into perfect alignment. That would be very difficult. I will have close to 60 feet of seams in these two repairs, so this is a lot of seam edge prep work.

Here is a cross section of the floor structure showing the vinyl floor and layers of the skim coat and VAT removed.

I need to fill up the void where the floor was buckled and VAT was removed, then feather in some filler, and yet still still retain an even/parallel edge upon to match the new seam so that both seam edges are horizontally even.

Matching the seam heights was so simple back when we could use S-200 on the seams. :rolleyes: Yes, I still hate these newfangled flooring products.

Albino 1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here's the general layout this large room and the two areas that will be repaired. I suppose the room is about 24 by 45. It's an art studio work area and the material is a thick, wood grained glass backed vinyl.

Abino full dimensions.JPG
 
Here's the general layout this large room and the two areas that will be repaired. I suppose the room is about 24 by 45. It's an art studio work area and the material is a thick, wood grained glass backed vinyl.

Ever hear of a camera? :rolleyes:
 
Ever hear of a camera? :rolleyes:

For now, you could just google IVC wood grain vinyl products and look at the samples. That would do as well as a photo right now. The floor hasn't been opened up since they still use the room. I know pretty much what's under the floor, so I drew up a side profile showing the floor layers with my Etch A Sketch in case my earlier wording didn't describe the situation well enough. It could be a week and a half before I can get around to it. The material isn't here yet.
I'm just making a game plan right now. Rolling around ideas with my good buddies here helps a lot.
 
I go into malls and stores to do repairs like that. But I take pics with me phone or camera just for reference so I can make my plan of attack. Most times ya got 2 to 3 hours to make it happen before the store opens or after hours. Two hundred ducats an hour is lowballing it. You gotta be fast and have a plan.
 
This art studio is a husband /wife team and the pace is casual. Only plan is that I will schedule the repairs when it fits their schedule.
It will happen in layers. Clean out the loose stuff and fill in where I removed the filler, then skim coat and get the seam area cleaned up ready to cut the seams. Parts of at least two days and probably three ought to get it done. I do plan on finding a surprise or two when I open up the floor, so the shop owner expects a very minimum of two days. If they need part of the space, I will complete one repair, and then do the second one. They are nice people and will be easy to work with. I want to go get a piece of the flooring to experiment with, mainly to make a cutting too that will only cut the exact thickness of the vinyl.
I'll take a photo or two when I find time to go over there. The job site is only 5 miles away so travel isn't an issue.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top