Matching up to curved bullnose

[Balaclava]

I am installing ¾ x 2 ¼ inch prefinished red oak hardwood on my second floor hallway. I have a circular staircase with a ¾ inch oakbull nose installed by the builder. Can anyone give me suggestions on how to cut my prefinished hardwood so that it perfectly matches the curve of the bullnose without having to use a molding to cover up the seam?

 

[eric248]

Use a jig saw, I put I slight bevel on the jig saw so it will be easy to get is tight.

 

[Incognito]

Not sure if you're wanting the info on cutting, scribing or both.


Duct tape or blue tape alongside your scribe mark will reduce any splintering from the jig saw blades---------make sure you've got the right blade in there for a fine cut. Expect to use a LITTLE BIT of matching putty. Test you cutting blade on a scrap to set the right speed and correct blade for that surface.

I just use dividers to mark the scribe where I can set the board close enough. Otherwise I'll use a template. I can do the cuts with a table saw if it's a newer, finer blade but the jig saw is easier.

 

[Balaclava]

I am looking for ideas on both cutting and scribing. I thought about using a jig saw but I’m worried about splintering. I guess it depends a lot on the blade I use. I have a router and wonder if it can be used? I have limited experience using the router. I also have an oscillating spindle sander which I think will help. Any and all ideas are welcome.

 

[Incognito]

I am looking for ideas on both cutting and scribing. I thought about using a jig saw but I’m worried about splintering. I guess it depends a lot on the blade I use. I have a router and wonder if it can be used? I have limited experience using the router. I also have an oscillating spindle sander which I think will help. Any and all ideas are welcome.

Scroll saw saw is something I pull out on occasion where I can't get a clean, accurate enough cut with the table saw or jig. In fact I always drag one around if I'm doing wood but it rarely makes it off the truck.

 

[Balaclava]

I think I’ll try using a jig saw on a scrap piece first, and if I cant get a good cut then I might splurge and get a scroll saw.

Does anyone have any good suggestions on scribing? How about the use of a template?

 

[Don Monfils]

If you cut it with a jig saw, you can get a blade that cuts on the down stroke, which will reduce any chance of splintering the face of the board

My favorite jig saw blade for flooring is the Makita B-22 . It's a fine bi-metal blade.

 

[Incognito]

I think I’ll try using a jig saw on a scrap piece first, and if I cant get a good cut then I might splurge and get a scroll saw.

Does anyone have any good suggestions on scribing? How about the use of a template?

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I'm really a vinyl/VCT kind of guy so where I can't DIRECT scribe with dividers or the bar scribe I use pattern felt. I suspect real wood guys have some other tricks up their sleeves.

 

[FloorMaven]

I had a 9" band saw that was ideal for that sort of work. They're relatively inexpensive, they make a clean, fine cut with a thin kerf and allow for the ultimate control of your material.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/ryobi-25-amp-band-saw-bs903.html#.UR0oOR00XTo

 

[FloorMaven]

You certainly can make a jig and use a router. The way I cut to the curved nosing pictured below was to make a felt paper template. It's easy to overlap the paper and run a blade along the nose to get a net template. Then I laid three boards in dry over the template and cut off the piece of template I needed. Taped the three boards together, marked and cut them together on the band saw. I think the key is continuity of the cut...so the more boards you can cut together the more precise your fit. A router is the best tool for continuity.

 

[Ken]

I saw a miniature table saw with a jig saw blade at Lowes for like $150. I think that would work perfect with a real nice blade. Ive been dying to see it in action so post a video and let me know what you think