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highup

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Anyone installed this solid vinyl click material? The one I was shown is a 12" by 23 7/8" stone pattern.
I looked at a job yesterday that may have that material to be installed over concrete in the kitchen, dining room and living area plus 3 bathrooms and a hallway that are wood. Most of the area is connected except for 1 bathroom.
The dining/Living room area to the right had a big dip in the concrete, so they cut out the entire dining room slab except for 8 inches around the perimeter, and re-filled it with a new pour. It's flat now.
The concrete is about a month old, and they think that since the flooring is "water resistant" that residual moisture coming out of the floor won't be an issue.
Also, the new concrete has drywall mud totally covering it in globs and from the texture over spray.:rolleyes: Not that the trapped moisture and drywall mud residue under the new flooring would cause any issues. :D
Anyway, aside from the floor issues, is this material user friendly? I didn't take my straight edge with me, but the floor looks to have some serious rolling slopes, humps, and a few dips in it........ Lotta prep if it can be made to work.
I don't think they plan on using any underlayment. If they did, I wonder how that would be affected by moisture.
The layout doesn't leave much for T transitions. They don't really fit in anywhere visually.

Saunders Lake layout 1.jpg
 
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There is plenty of LVT underlayment out there these days High. I'd use it if they allow. Some do not
 
Off the top of my head I believe that is a IVC product. Have layed lots of it. It is ok to work with. On a note: I would not install over until I check moisture. It will not hurt product but and a big but, it will trap moisture under it causing problems down the road.
 
n 2.0CM% - 75% RH The Rh is an insitu test,
Got that part, but not the 2.0CM% part
I drove back out to the job site this afternoon to check the floor for flatness. I didn't take any tools with me on my initial look-see, because I didn't know the job was this involved.
Anyway, this product ain't gonna fly. It has more dips an hills in the slab that the mountains in Colorado. The last 24 to 30 inches in front of the sink dives 3/8"
From the center of the kitchen, which is fairly flat, to behind the fridge, the floor dives 1/2 an inch in 60 inches.
The opening between the two large rooms is about 9 feet, and along the entire length it's got a 3/8" dip using my 6 foot straight edge. Using a longer straight edge, it would probably be well over 1/2" in 10 feet.:rolleyes:
From the center of the kitchen to the farthest corner, it would need a full inch of filler just to barely begin the leveling process.
Trying to devise a way to make some kind of flooring work for this fella, possibly including the use of a different floor for the dining room than the kitchen..............maybe a teak floor on sleepers? :D
It's gonna be interesting. I don't even plan on doing this job, maybe just the carpet. Right now I'm just trying to help out. Whatever happens, there will be no such thing as the "correct" way. "Correct" simply can't be accomplished here.
 
Got that part, but not the 2.0CM% part
I drove back out to the job site this afternoon to check the floor for flatness. I didn't take any tools with me on my initial look-see, because I didn't know the job was this involved.
Anyway, this product ain't gonna fly. It has more dips an hills in the slab that the mountains in Colorado. The last 24 to 30 inches in front of the sink dives 3/8"
From the center of the kitchen, which is fairly flat, to behind the fridge, the floor dives 1/2 an inch in 60 inches.
The opening between the two large rooms is about 9 feet, and along the entire length it's got a 3/8" dip using my 6 foot straight edge. Using a longer straight edge, it would probably be well over 1/2" in 10 feet.:rolleyes:
From the center of the kitchen to the farthest corner, it would need a full inch of filler just to barely begin the leveling process.

This is why they make SLC. Even the picture shows some SLC going in next to the guy on the floor. Start mixing and pouring. Good money there. I did do some Moduleo and have to say this stuff is great.
 
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This is why they make SLC. Even the picture shows some SLC going in next to the guy on the floor. Start mixing and pouring. Good money there. I did do some Moduleo and have to say this stuff is great.
I don't think SLC wouldn't work because it would probably add 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to the entire room on the right side of the drawing above. Heck, it might even flow above the sliding door threshold. :eek:
The floor slopes sharply in too many directions. What needs to be done is probably just making it "better" ...good enough for sheet vinyl.In this sketch, the gray area is the high area and the most level.

The entire right side is the dining room and it's a new concrete pour and it's pretty flat. Making the highly irregular kitchen side flat (not level) is one issue, but blending that side into the good side creates even more issues.

Saunders Lake layout  no measurements and low spots.jpg
 

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