My bathroom floor project

Discussion in 'General Flooring Discussion' started by zannej, Jun 27, 2014.

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  1. Apr 7, 2019 #101

    zannej

    zannej

    zannej

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    Nick, I have the drill bit attachment. I have no idea where my household mixer went. My mother thought that I could stir the mix with a whisk. She has no idea how thick it gets. LOL. As an aside, my mother also thought that I could cut through a fallen oak branch (varied from 10" to 30" diameter) with a handheld coping saw.

    So, what I have so far:
    *the 547 mix x2 (just in case)
    *gloves
    *mask for fumes
    *trowel/float thingy for spreading
    *putty knives for scooping
    *drywall tape knife for wider spreading/pulling
    *painter's tape (if needed to block off areas)
    *50 grit sandpaper (also more sandpapers if I look for them)
    *stirring attachment for power drill
    *power drill/screwdriver
    *shopvac
    *level & straight edge
    *buckets
    *measuring cups
    *eye protection in case of splatter
    *shop towels
    *angle grinder w/ diamond cup wheel just in case things go pearshaped
    *Boxcutter/knife (if anything needs cutting)
    *motivation to get this done :-D
     
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  2. Apr 9, 2019 #102

    highup

    highup

    highup

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    You're mixing it too thick if you need to scoop it out. When I do a skim coat, I tip the bucket on its side and it almost pours out. Use the additive instead of water. The additive is designed for these thin skim coats. The additive makes the skim coat less absorbent so that the adhesive doesn't get the moisture sucked out of it.
    Mix a Dixie cup amount for practice. Mix it up thin, I mean really thin, and mix it well, then spread it on a scrap of plywood about 1/16'th of an inch thick and let it dry for a couple of hours. Now scrape it with your fingernail and a drywall taping knife............. test it to see how tough it is.
    Better yet, spread it over the dried floor patch that you already ground down. Do NOT build the patch up further (thicker), just fill in the voids.
    Do this test using the 6" drywall spreader and fill in as much of the low spots as you can with this small test amount. Let it dry for a couple of hours, then scratch it scrape it............... to see how tough this thin mix gets. I use the word thin quite a bit because skim coats are not fills. ;)
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2019
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  3. Apr 10, 2019 #103

    zannej

    zannej

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    I wish I could find the additive locally but it just isn't available. Only way I could get it would be to ship-to-store to HD & hope they don't lose it the way Lowes did. I am not quite sure what size of it to use though. There's a larger one & a smaller one. But, since you are suggesting it so strongly, I can see about ordering it through HD & hoping there are no problems. Any idea which size container I would use of the Henry 456? It comes in 1qt and 1gallon. The last time I got the mix I believe I got 2 of the qt sizes and mixed both, but I'm not certain if that was the right ratio. It says "• Mix 2-1/2 parts Henry 547 to 1 part of Henry 546". (The answer on the HD page had an error bc the 1/ didn't transfer with copy+paste from the pdf).

    To make sure I understand (I know I've brought this up before, but my brain keeps not wanting to cooperate): I could put 2-1/2" cups of powder in a dry measuring cup & 1 cup of additive in a liquid measuring cup. That means 5 cups of powder would go with 2 cups of additive. 1 US cup = 1/4" quart. So I could get 4 cups of additive out of 1 quart.

    Does that sound about right?

    To clarify: This is the mix- it's a patch & level rather than feather finish. Henry547-10.jpg

    And this is the gallon size additive. henry-floor-patching-self-leveling-waterproofing-12154-64_1000.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2019
  4. Apr 11, 2019 #104

    highup

    highup

    highup

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    Be nice to see what the floor actually looks like so a recommendation could be made as far as how much to mix, and I'm talking container size.
    You probably don't need the additive for the first floats of filler to get the toilet area flat...... Assume you are still going to do that?
    Once you get the lumpy part of the floor smooth as you can, the next finish coats need the additive. Those coats will be thin. It's OK to finish smoothing this out in a number of small coats if you have to.

    Get the areas alongside the flange flat first. You don't need to screed it out really far this time, just concentrate on making those two sides flat. You might get away with 1/4 or 1/3 of a 5 quart mixing pail to do this part.
    If your satisfied with those flat areas, then float out from there like in my diagrams. Do not try to build up any filler on those flat areas...... they're flat and you want to keep them that way.

    I mix filler in 5 qt plastic pails pretty often, especially for thin skim coats. Skim coats don't take a lot of filler, so you don't want to mix a half a bucket of skim coat material. Since this is new to you, mix less than 1/4 of a pail the first time to get a feel for how far it will go, and how east it spreads.

    2 quarts might cost as much as one gallon. You have to guess on that one. Too much is better than not enough.
     
  5. Apr 11, 2019 #105

    zannej

    zannej

    zannej

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    Thanks, Highup. I've already posted pics of the floor. Do you mean you need the measurements of the area? Or better photos?

    And yes, I intend to do just as you suggested & flatten the toilet areas first & then go from there. Just water for first layers: got it. That way I wouldn't have to wait for the additive to arrive and if it turns out nice enough w/o the additive I could save some time & $. I don't need it to be perfect, I just need it to not have any major lumps or divets to transfer through the sheet vinyl & I want to keep the toilet level/solid. If I really cared about the smoothness, I'd do a layer of feather-finish on top, but I don't care that much about floor that will be under sheet vinyl & underlayment. I'm going to keep the underlay to buffer any imperfections & cut it in spots where I use the acrylic double-sided tape to adhere the vinyl to the floor. I think I'll do a few little tack squares to hold it down at edges, but I'll do a continuous strip next to the tub & caulk along the edge. Then I'll have to put up a trim piece to hide the wood strip under the tub & caulk that.

    I wonder if I could use a cheap handheld powered kitchen mixer thing for smaller batches (because the drill attachment I have is pretty damn large) or if I could make my own small attachment somehow. Like see if I could fit a beater attachment on my drill.
     
  6. Apr 11, 2019 #106

    highup

    highup

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    The additive gives the mixture properties needed for the adhesive to work like it should. It says to use the additive for skim coating for that reason.
    Your images are fine, but they aren't in 3D, so I can't tell how smooth it is or how deep the filler is or how shallow the low spots are spots are.
    This is the mixer you want.[​IMG]
     
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  7. Apr 11, 2019 #107

    Nick

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    I have that one .. Works great and not that expensive ..
     
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  8. Apr 11, 2019 #108

    highup

    highup

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    Zan, look how this guy is doing it. He's got a wide open area to work in which is nice .........but you don't have that.
    That said notice how thin he's putting it on.
     
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  9. Apr 12, 2019 #109

    Ernesto

    Ernesto

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    You coulda flown me out there and that job woulda been done months ago. LOL
     
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  10. Apr 12, 2019 #110

    Nick

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    You coulda flown me out there and i would have played Golf .. :D
     
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  11. Apr 12, 2019 #111

    zannej

    zannej

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    Highup, ah, yeah, it's hard to really gauge the topography. I'm not really sure how to even do that. I have terrible depth perception & I think it has gotten worse over the years. The good news is, I believe that is the mixer attachment I just picked up at the store (before seeing your post). It feels lightweight & isn't too large. The other one I have is heavy.

    Man, that guy was spreading that stuff fast! I don't think I'll be that fast at it. LOL. But I will do my best to do thin layers. I've read that this works best in small batches & done in layers so I will start w/ maybe 2 cups water + 5 cups powder & see if that is enough to get mixed. I'll have to see what buckets I got to make sure I have one that is the right size for that amount. You said 5 quart would work? I believe I saw those in the store but need to check to see which ones I got.

    I really really appreciate the advice. It helps me with my planning & also helps keep me motivated. Seeing the videos helps me to get an idea of how the stuff moves/spreads.
     
  12. Apr 12, 2019 #112

    highup

    highup

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    Don't mix up that much yet. Just mix up a cup of material and use it to screed over the rough area so you can get a feel for spreading it out. Mix it by eye this time so it's soupy thin like in the video. Use a mixing cup and the handle of a spoon. Something this small, you don't need the drill.
    Notice that even tho his trowel is wide, he overlaps each pass by 75% or so. First pass spreads out the material out and the next pass smooths it thin and evens it out. He's trying not to get ridges with each pass. The thicker you try to put it on the more ridges you will probably get.
    I use 5 qt pails because it's a good size to work out of for small stuff.
     
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  13. Apr 12, 2019 #113

    zannej

    zannej

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    Thanks!
    I'm glad you pointed out the technique of going over 75% each pass because he was moving so fast I couldn't really track it. Let's see... 2.5 cups powder to 1 cup water is the ratio specified-- but you're saying I should dilute it more?
     
  14. Apr 13, 2019 at 6:46 PM #114

    highup

    highup

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    I haven't used that particular product, so I'd to one that size like the recommend plus a couple teaspoons and see how it behaves. Mix it well. Use the additive for the final coat.
     
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