Need some of advice on a remodel...

Flooring Forum - DIY & Professional

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John L

New Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2023
Messages
3
Location
Minneapolis
Hey everyone, thanks for taking the time to help. In short, want to make sure I have the sub-floor properly spec'd... I removed old flooring (4 layers - 1 carpet, 3 wood) down to joists in most areas where feasible... there is some remaining 1 x 10 plank sub floor. I need to run the new 3/4 white oak parallel to the joists (yeah, I know) partly for aesthetic, but mostly how it will tie-in to other rest of the original hardwood areas. Fortunately, the additional layer discovered at tear-off will provide some room to add an additional layer to help stiffen the floor for parallel hardwood/joist installation. Please see attached PDF for a rough sketch.
1 - Can I use appropriate screws w/ adhesive to attach 3/4 CDX to joists (#10 GRK, etc.) or do I need to use a ring shank nail? If nail only, can I use clip head nails (I only have a framing nailer that shoots clip head nails.)

2- Adhesive between ⅜” and ¾” layers? Staple or screw 3/8 to 3/4? (e.g. Patriot Timber's Sureply states no adhesive, staple schedule only with their underlayment.)

3 - Bridging good idea or bad? (see PDF)

4 - Sistering good idea or bad? (see PDF)

5 - Any general feedback on moisture meters? Will use primarily for wood projects. Although an occasional lath and plaster scan would be nice. Can you get anything decent for $200- $300?

6- Lastly what's your pref on adhesives for sub-floor? (Bostik, Titelbond, Liquid nails)

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
 

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JPfloor

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2022
Messages
396
Location
New York
Screwed and glued will work just fine.

I’d rather see two layers of 3/4” when going parallel. No need for AC grade when nailing down 3/4” hardwood… CDX will suffice.

Bridging and sistering can’t hurt but might be considered overkill if you go with the double layer 3/4”.

I’ve used liquid nails sub floor adhesive with no problems. Is it the best? I dunno but it worked for me.

As for a moisture meter I’m not sure which brand is best but for wood I’d go with a pin meter over the pinless. Make sure the batteries are in good shape to get an accurate reading.
 

John L

New Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2023
Messages
3
Location
Minneapolis
Thanks for your feedback, JP. I would go with a 2nd layer of 3/4" but the additional height would make it difficult to merge with the existing hardwood in the adjacent rooms without adding a transition. I was hoping that the bridging and sistering would allow for an underlayment of 3/8" on top of the 3/4"... but hoping won't change the laws of physics. ;)
 

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