Discussion in 'Hardwood Floors' started by Ernesto, Dec 1, 2017.
Should keep me busy for a few days, 1100sf of Hallmark 5"×1/2"×Rl
They look long E ..
7 foot, Hallmark does good, lots of long lengths
New yob? yumpin' yimminie
Love the acclimation setup. That's as good as it gits.
I cut a section of the crapet out, took out the pad and put the crapet back down so the bottom ones ain't on concrete or too soft a support.
I'm going to have to pick your brain for a Kitchen floor in a week E. Don't know what is out there anymore . Just when you think you are out , They bring you back in..
Yeah, go retro with real lino!
Nuther one, eurpean white oak 7.5" x5/8 × fixed random length - three lengths, one or two 5 footers and a 2 footer or two but mostly 7 footers.
Glue down on CC, around 1200ft to start. Going back after this for the kitchen after demo and master bedroom.
Then 3,000sf at another house they bought and gutted. I love rich Chicagoans. Seven and a half inch goes quick.
Using Bostik Green Force adhesive again. Love this glue
How fast does it set up so it can be walked on......... or worked on. I mean, can you kneel on freshly glued planks a little bit or stay completely off it until it cures?
I'm assuming it cleans up easier than Bosticks Best? I'm betting it does.
I work on top of it or justabout any glue for that matter. I strap it then tape if when I'm getting close to the wall so the planks don't slide around under you. Bostik wants this stuff rolled too. That said I stay off as much as possible.
Clean up is a jiffy with just a clean white rag, won't etch the finish like a moisture cure urethane will.
Its also 100% moisture blocking so no need for time consuming and expensive moisture tests. They way the adhesive industry is going moisture tests will be extinct soon.
I do run my Tramex CME around for hot spots though and maybe maybe a ph test just to impress the client mostly.
The most important aspect of the concrete is that the profile needs to be rough not smooth and shiny or bond breakers on it. And thats it.
So for the moisture blocking to be successful, you'd need to grind the entire slab if it looked borderline acceptable.
Bond breakers include sheetrock mud, paint and curing compounds...... and plain old dirt and mud depending on the weather during construction.
Technically speaking yes. Profile to a csp 2-3 ia usually the standard or at least light broom finish/non shinny surface.
As much wood as you do, and most on concrete, what tool do you use if a whole house needs grinding?
My phone to call the guy with the 440 walk behind.
Finish line for now.
Nothing more fun than 45s. Looks great, 'specially the undercutting
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