No name LVP

[MSLI]

I found 4 boxes of a No named plank
7.50 “ x 51” x appx. 3/16” thick with a mechanical click connection in the brothers Rem pile. Proposing to lay it over a slightly embossed full spread sheet vinyl in a kitchen. This rug dog has very little experience and no training in vinyl flooring.

Two questions:
1> can you identify this product and share opinion? Plus expansion gap for both length + width

2> Could I do it, or sub it out.

I’ll try to get a pic of instructions on box at my next shop visit.

 

[C.J.]

Piece of cake.

 

[Incognito]

the whole system is designed for DIY

It's much easier than installing carpet.

 

[C.J.]

Sub it out and take 1/3 Money for nothin and your chicks for free.

Or if you do decide to install it you’ll want to leave say 3/8” expansion space around the perimeter. Most products now have a 1/4” requirement but since this is an unknown product we gotta play it safe. I’ve seen lower end LVP back in the day call for 1/2” expansion space. That’s a bit much and kitchens aren’t usually that big. 4 boxes is what, 80ish sq ft. You’ll be fine with 3/8”. If you did LVP all the time I’d say just go with the usual 1/4”. Some products call for 5/16. Who does that. I’ll either cheat it down to 1/4”, cus that’s what my spacers are, or just make it a fat gap at 3/8”.

As far as flatness, you know the drill.

One of the cheap o tapping blocks from a box store will work just fine. Watch your fingers. Lol. Since you don’t do LVP i would just jimmy up something to use for spacers. No sense droppin money on something if you’re just gonna do it one time. Maybe you can borrow a few spacers off of another installer. Or just bump one wall during the install and scoot it the 1/4” or 3/8” when you’re done.

 

[highup]

Iffin' ya got fancy or intricate cuts, these blades won't pull up chips on the edges. Finest cutting blades in the universe.
https://www.amazon.sg/LENOX-Tools-1...nt/dp/B07PLTXYTQ#immersive-view_1661221493586
These have no kerf and are sharper than piranha teeth.

 

[Tile Tom]

I really only use a utility knife and maybe a pair of pliers for almost all lvp anymore.
Score and snap baby!!!

 

[Incognito]

I really only use a utility knife and maybe a pair of pliers for almost all lvp anymore.
Score and snap baby!!!

They've been preferring the larger profile and thicker LVT here for commercial. We barely install any of the 2/3mm stuff. We dont undercut metal frames and there's some real intricate stuff in some of those jobs where you'd want the jig saw. Still, it's rare I want to get up off my knees and go fetch the saw. So I only used the saw in desperate situations.

 

[C.J.]

They've been preferring the larger profile and thicker LVT here for commercial. We barely install any of the 2/3mm stuff. We dont undercut metal frames and there's some real intricate stuff in some of those jobs where you'd want the jig saw. Still, it's rare I want to get up off my knees and go fetch the saw. So I only used the saw in desperate situations.

You need a Jig Pro!

 

[Tile Tom]

I've definitely run across some stuff that the score and snap method is absolutely useless. Damn near 1/2" SPC that destroys jig blades in about 2 inches. Even beats the hell out of my table saw blades. Stuffs a freaking beast!

Can't remember what brand but do remember it was the XL model

 

[C.J.]

You wanna talk about a product that just kills blades, Cali Bamboo LVP. Doesn’t matter what kind of blade, it just eats them within a few planks. PVC blades, metal blades, up kerf, down kerf, they all die rather quickly.

 

[kwfloors]

I haven't done any bamboo but I heard the fewer teeth on the table saw the better. Some of these new lvps don't cut very good in the shear. Soon we'll be using a diamond blade to cut it.

 

[Don Monfils]

You wanna talk about a product that just kills blades, Cali Bamboo LVP. Doesn’t matter what kind of blade, it just eats them within a few planks. PVC blades, metal blades, up kerf, down kerf, they all die rather quickly.

Have you tried these blades?
They work great for the toughest plank.

 

[highup]

I've definitely run across some stuff that the score and snap method is absolutely useless. Damn near 1/2" SPC that destroys jig blades in about 2 inches. Even beats the hell out of my table saw blades. Stuffs a freaking beast!

Can't remember what brand but do remember it was the XL model

Provenza does that. You have to use carbide.

 

[highup]

I haven't done any bamboo but I heard the fewer teeth on the table saw the better. Some of these new lvps don't cut very good in the shear. Soon we'll be using a diamond blade to cut it.

Do they make a portable water jet?

 

[DarisMulkin]

Do they make a portable water jet?

I think they do. I was watching something on FB the other day that I think was portable.

 

[MSLI]

Ok boyz ! And girlz the kitchen is 8’ x 9’
(72 sq’ ) The No name Rem of lvp comes 7.50” x 51” x a total of 39 PCs. ( appx 97 sq’ ) According to my Polish calculator / brain that is ….That’s like a 30 % waist factor, which is good because this would be my first lvp job, unless I out because my knees hurt….. sound good ?

 

[C.J.]

You definitely have enough material. Tight shops run 5% to 7% depending on the square footage. Regular shops will give you the full 10%.

 

[Tile Tom]

I almost always go 10% waste. If the job is a square or rectangular I'll go down to 7%.
You pretty much have to do 10% because there's always some bad product in the mix. Broken corners, print is off, bugged up wear layers, etc.

You got it Mike! It's funny how people been in the trade longer than I been alive have reservations about the click lock stuff. I have a good friend that's almost 80 and still on his knees. He rode along with me on a few floater jobs just to pick up my technique for installing them.

Best way I can describe how I install them is to just go ahead and toss the install instructions. Most want you to drop your length and tap into your butt. That's fine for a diy that has all the time in the world. My technique is to lock your butt first and lift the length a little then finally tap my length with my huge tapping block. I literally use only my block, square, utility knife & end bar for the final row/tricky door jambs. I never have to shave any tongues or glue anything.

I did almost 600 ft this morning with carpet r&d, baseboard r&r, 24 ft of mpr, and 20 ft of q round......out by noon! About 4 hours. Beats the hell out of anything on a roll!!!

 

[highup]

You definitely have enough material. Tight shops run 5% to 7% depending on the square footage. Regular shops will give you the full 10%.

On the jobs I measure for the shop, I measure room exactly and if it's a kitchen, I'll roughly subtract the cabinet area.
The shop knows that I measure exact square footage this way. They add on 8% and it's working out well.
If I measure 22 linear feet of cabinets in a kitchen, I'll subtract 18 square feet, not the actual 18 to 21inches. She does round up the square footage to an even box after adding on the 8%
Sometimes a job ends up super efficient and customers get a bit upset seeing 4 1/2 boxes left over.
That happens when cabinets aren't subtracted and odd or irregular shaped rooms are figured as if they are squares or rectangles, or if room dimensions are rounded up to the nearest foot instead of the nearest 6 inches.