Oil changes

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Kyure

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Is it necessary to change it every 3-5 k miles, or wait til it looks dirty on stick.
I read all kinds of different opinions on line. Not sure what to believe. Basically I can still see its only about half dirty, half clear. It's been about 5 k miles since last change. Should I just do it anyways or is it wasting money?
 
Guess I'll just change it then. Trying to prep my daughters car for winter. We got nothing but cold air coming up, you too Rusty you're close by, tomorrow is prolly our last day of 60 degrees for months and I hate working on car in cold. Thanks
 
I'm not looking forward to the cold.

I had to wear gloves to work last week. Time to break out the long underwear eh? Wonder how some of the folks on the east coast still install in winter, we get cold but not tons of snow like they do.
 
We get the Heavy wet snow .

Depends on what oil you use K . I use pure Syn.

Pull out the dip stick and feel the oil between your fingers . If it feels a little gritty , Time for a change.
 
Cold air from the heater can be a sign of low coolant level. Can also be a sign of a plugged heater core. Feel the heater hoses and see if they are cold.
 
Is it necessary to change it every 3-5 k miles, or wait til it looks dirty on stick.
I read all kinds of different opinions on line. Not sure what to believe. Basically I can still see its only about half dirty, half clear. It's been about 5 k miles since last change. Should I just do it anyways or is it wasting money?

The color has little to do with the oil's true condition. Like Nick said, if it's slippery it's still in good shape. It all depends on the age of the vehicle and what the manufacturer says. I use synthetic in my S10 and dino in my old van. Synthetic is a little thinner and flows to the bearings faster upon a cold start up that dino oil, and that's a good thing. You can also go longer between changes with it, so it's not really that much more expensive if you buy it on sale in those 5 quart jugs.

What is the vehicle and how old is it? Also, how does she drive? All short trips, or does it regularly get driven long enough for the engine to get totally warmed up?
If it only gets driven to school or to work and back, and it's just 3 to 5 miles each way, those would be considered hard use. 10 to 20 miles of steady driving from a cold start is better on the oil and it can be changed less often.


In the olden days of carburetors (like my rigs :D ), oil needs to be changed more often because of the imprecise fuel metering which causes oil contamination and it also washes a little bit more oil off the cylinder walls than FI. I still go at least 4500 miles between changes in my old '77 van. It has 271,000 on it and doesn't use much oil.
Newer rigs have fuel injection and computers so the air/fuel mixture is as lean as possible which keeps the oil clean a lot longer.

What oil do you use (10-30, 10-40, 5-40?) and what kind of daily temps do you experience from now into deep winter?

One more tid bit............. I have never heard a good thing about FRAM oil filters, only the opposite.
 
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It's an 01 focus zetec. I guess it would be hard driving 3-5 miles to work and messing around town with her friends.
Looking at the forecast after today gives me shivers..I'm gonna change it. 5w-20 syn blend motorcraft, I'll stay clear of fram. Thanks for the tips
 
It's an 01 focus zetec. I guess it would be hard driving 3-5 miles to work and messing around town with her friends.
Looking at the forecast after today gives me shivers..I'm gonna change it. 5w-20 syn blend motorcraft, I'll stay clear of fram. Thanks for the tips

You'll be good with that I think, as long as it falls in with the manufacturers range and your typical temperatures. No need for 40wt when it's cold outside, and now is the time to get it done if you do your own oil changes like I do.
 
Daris is right. There's lots of oil info out there and years ago, I read a lot of oil related stuff after building my first engine. I decided to go with synthetic even tho a lot of people claimed "it makes the seals leak" As stated in the article below, that's not totally true, but because it's thinner, it can make it past an old hardened and loose fitting seal whereas a thick oil won't.
There is a lot of good info here and it's worth the entire read. 0/30 5/30 10/30 and 10/40 isn't what you think it is. 10/30 synthetic is thinner at startup than 10/30 dino oil. Synthetic doesn't need the additive packages to maintain its viscosity rating................ when the dino's additive package wears out, so is it's ability to lubricate.
Never having lived in a cold winter climate like many of you guys do, I found this article even more enlightening.
That said, read on to the end for a surprise oil choice by the author.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
 
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