Old tile kitchen floor replacement

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ozhawk

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I have installed many tile floors, but it was always from vinyl or laminate flooring as a start. I installed tile in our kitchen over 10 years ago and now my wife wants new tile flooring. My problem is this...I put down hardy backer board using screws. I can remove the tile, but I am having problems on the best way to go from there. Do I need to remove the old backer board or is there a way to handle the thinset under the existing tile to get a trustworthy and level bed to lay more thinset and then the tiles. Putting down more backer board without removing the old would raise the thresholds (two kitchen entries) up to high. Our kitchen/dining room are small so it wouldn't be a huge job sq ft wise, but would really like suggestions on how to proceed before I got started since this is the first time I have done this.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks
ozhawk
 
ozhawk said:
I have installed many tile floors, but it was always from vinyl or laminate flooring as a start. I installed tile in our kitchen over 10 years ago and now my wife wants new tile flooring. My problem is this...I put down hardy backer board using screws. I can remove the tile, but I am having problems on the best way to go from there. Do I need to remove the old backer board or is there a way to handle the thinset under the existing tile to get a trustworthy and level bed to lay more thinset and then the tiles. Putting down more backer board without removing the old would raise the thresholds (two kitchen entries) up to high. Our kitchen/dining room are small so it wouldn't be a huge job sq ft wise, but would really like suggestions on how to proceed before I got started since this is the first time I have done this.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks
ozhawk

There are 2 options to go with here.
If you just remove the tile you will end up leaving thinset on the backer board so getting the excess off will disturb the top layer of cement board.
So you can get all the high spots off make it flat as possible then put a skim coat of thinset, let dry then retile.

2nd is to take the old backer out, inspect your plywood if it's not beat up from taking existing mortar bed off then install new backer in the new thinset bed then tile.
 
There are 2 options to go with here.
Gheeezh...only two options? One would think there would be more than only two options. "Only two options" sounds pretty difinitive, so I guess that's the end of the discussion.:D

Oh wait!!!
There may in fact be more than "only two options".
 
BudCline said:
Gheeezh...only two options? One would think there would be more than only two options. "Only two options" sounds pretty difinitive, so I guess that's the end of the discussion.:D

Oh wait!!!
There may in fact be more than "only two options".

I gave out my 2 options you can do the rest there Bud, oh wait I think you already did post your option?.. Lol
 
Over what the cbu?... I think the cbu won't be worth saving after the tile is up, don't think it will end up to be hills and valleys where slc will remedy much.

Well okay - whatever you think. :rolleyes:
 
ozhawk said:
My problem is this...I put down hardy backer board using screws.

I think you should make your decision about the underlayment after inspection. Compare repair v. removal, if all you're dealing with are screws then replacement makes sense.
 
We always tear up board. Its a pain in the ass but so much easier than dealing with thin set scraping. Take a demo crow bar an tear it up an pop up the screws
 
I've always installed cbu in mortar so I guess if someone was tearing out my install they'd have to deal with sub-floor prep as well as cbu removal.
 
We do too and I have tore out board that was glued an nailed an its no fun at all
 

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