Questions about Engineered Hardwood Flooring Installation

[VAer]

I have many questions, hope to get some answers/suggestions to most of questions. Thanks in advance.

1) Attached photos: One entertainment room (carpet, Tile below it, not sure about what it is, I posted the photo on a forum, someone says it could be VCT tile, the current tile below carpet is very hard, I feel it likes hardness of cement tile); One guest room (very thin material, looks like tile, but I use easily break the "tile" by finger, Linoleum Flooring?). Both rooms are half below the ground, so I should consider preventing humidity which may permeate through the first layer of flooring.

2) I prefer to go with Engineered hardwood flooring, but am open to other choices. Any suggestions?

3) The house was built in 1960s, and the tile below carpet could made of asbestos, so I may let the tile stay to avoid too much removing cost. I am not sure how much it will cost to remove them (If removing, I need to hire a certified Asbestos Inspector, if it is made of asbestos, then I don't know how much it will cost to remove them). Any suggestions about the tile? Should it be better to stay?

4) Can I put something between tile and Engineered wood (prevent humidity)? If yes, what material, 1/4" cement board, or Flooring underlayment? If Flooring Underlayment, how can I glue engineered hardwood on it?

5) Staircase is covered by same carpet too, but it is solid hardwood below the carpet, I believe it is white oak solid hardwood, so I only need to sand and refinish the staircase. If hiring a contractor, approximately how much will it cost to sand/refinish each step of staircase? I really would like to know the reasonable quote range.

Thanks so much for reading.

 

[Floorist]

Last picture looks like VAT (tile containing asbestos). If so, the adhesive most likely has asbestos too. Better off to put the engineered over it and not take it up. Don't use cement board under the engineered. As far as a vapor barrier, what does the manufacturer suggest?

 

[VAer]

Last picture looks like VAT (tile containing asbestos). If so, the adhesive most likely has asbestos too. Better off to put the engineered over it and not take it up. Don't use cement board under the engineered. As far as a vapor barrier, what does the manufacturer suggest?

How should I know manufacturer suggestion? I bought the house 2 years ago, and I don't know much about this house. I am a new home owner too, so I don't have much ideas. That is why I am asking for suggestions here.

But it does not hurt to put something between tile and engineered wood, correct? If not cement board, what other materials?

Could you please explain why cement board is bad choice?

Thanks.

 

[DarisMulkin]

From the one picture that has a broken tile it looks like the substrate is wood. If you do a floating floor I wouldn't worry about none of it and just cover it up. I'm not a wood person persay. If the tile isn't curling or buckling then I wouldn't think you had a moisture problem.
But I would use a reputable dealer other than LL.
Daris

 

[VAer]

From the one picture that has a broken tile it looks like the substrate is wood. If you do a floating floor I wouldn't worry about none of it and just cover it up. I'm not a wood person persay. If the tile isn't curling or buckling then I wouldn't think you had a moisture problem.
But I would use a reputable dealer other than LL.
Daris

First, let me ask a question ("From the one picture that has a broken tile": the very thin tile definitely does not contain asbestos, correct? It should be safe to remove, correct?

So basically, you are saying, I can directly glue engineered wood on the floor of both rooms (if the below tile is even and flat)?

Thanks.

 

[Floorist]

How should I know manufacturer suggestion? I bought the house 2 years ago, and I don't know much about this house. I am a new home owner too, so I don't have much ideas. That is why I am asking for suggestions here.

But it does not hurt to put something between tile and engineered wood, correct? If not cement board, what other materials?

Could you please explain why cement board is bad choice?

Thanks.

Cement board will crumble from walking on it. It offers no structure at all. It also is NOT a vapor barrier. Wherever you buy the engineered, they can give you a list of how to install it so it will have a warranty. They made it, they know how it is supposed to be installed.

 

[Floorist]

First, let me ask a question ("From the one picture that has a broken tile": the very thin tile definitely does not contain asbestos, correct? It should be safe to remove, correct?

So basically, you are saying, I can directly glue engineered wood on the floor of both rooms (if the below tile is even and flat)?

Thanks.

The only way to be 100% sure whether it contains asbestos Is to have it tested. From the picture, it looks like 9x9 which almost always contain.asbestos.

 

[DarisMulkin]

The only way to tell if there is asbestos is to have it tested. Send in a small chunk and a scraping of the adhesive to a lab for that. No one can tell if there is asbestos just by looking at it. Your house was built in the time frame that it is possible. Even after asbestos was outlawed if there still was warehouse stock it could be sold and installed. As long as you don't sand, drill or abraid the tile you are good to go. Also every state has their own rules how much can be torn up by a home owner and how to dispose of it. But a contractor or builder has to go with an abatement company to be legal. If it is something you want to do yourself check with own state laws on the subject.

Daris

 

[Floorist]

Why not float the engineered Over the tile and vinyl?

 

[Ernesto]

You cannot glue directly over either of those tiles. A floating floor (gluing the T&G) with T&G adhesive needs an underlayment like these that are vapor retarder/pad - same as a laminate floor but do upgrade.



http://www.hoskinghardwood.com/Depa...ents-for-Laminate-Floors.aspx?dId=9&pageId=75

 

[VAer]

Cement board will crumble from walking on it. It offers no structure at all. It also is NOT a vapor barrier. Wherever you buy the engineered, they can give you a list of how to install it so it will have a warranty. They made it, they know how it is supposed to be installed.

Well, 3 contractors have come for estimate, they offered very different opinions, and at least I don't trust some of them, since I feel like they try to make job easy. They don't have patient to measure the dimension accurately, and spent no more then 5 minutes on inspection, then gave me the estimate on other day. One contractor said the tile has to be removed and asked me to sign some kind of waiver to accept the possible outcome of my decision and release the responsibility from the company, if humidity permeates through the first layer of flooring which will most likely cause the new floor glue join to fail in some areas.Another contractor does not want to remove anything, not even the thin cover (broken tile in the first photo), I feel like they just want to install it for me, not going to explain anything, not even mention moisture, not care about outcome.

For questions posted on forum, I feel I can get most honest answers, although different people may have different opinions.

 

[VAer]

You cannot glue directly over either of those tiles. A floating floor (gluing the T&G) with T&G adhesive needs an underlayment like these that are vapor retarder/pad - same as a laminate floor but do upgrade.



http://www.hoskinghardwood.com/Depa...ents-for-Laminate-Floors.aspx?dId=9&pageId=75

I can glue on underlayment directly? The material can be rolled, I cannot image I can apply glue on it.

 

[VAer]

Why not float the engineered Over the tile and vinyl?

No glue is needed? Could you please recommend a engineered wood for floating?

Thanks

 

[VAer]

Where to buy floated engineered wood? Can I apply solid floated hardwood?

Can someone recommend some places to buy wood flooring? Local stores (Home Depot, Lowes, Lumber Liquidators) do not really have enough choices.

Thanks.

 

[Ernesto]

You can float that Koa, anything engineered can be floated. The T&G glue is applied into the groove, then strapped together. No glue goes on the underlayment. No you cannot float solid hardwood.

Try and find a Prosource store near you. If there is one you can use my name to get in as they are not open to the general public. Message me. They carry better flooring than Lumber Liquidators. Look up complaints against lumber liquidators.

 

[Nick]

Prosource would be my first choice to .. If there is a problem with the floor ,They send someone right out to you . Try that with the others E mentioned .

 

[Floorist]

I wish there was a Prosource in my area. Closest is 100 miles. I had a deal with a local store buying at a discount, but they retired and closed.

 

[Nick]

I have a couple of Distributors here i deal with .

 

[Floorist]

Closest distributors are 100 miles. In KC I got dealer price.

 

[VAer]

You can float that Koa, anything engineered can be floated. The T&G glue is applied into the groove, then strapped together. No glue goes on the underlayment. No you cannot float solid hardwood.

Try and find a Prosource store near you. If there is one you can use my name to get in as they are not open to the general public. Message me. They carry better flooring than Lumber Liquidators. Look up complaints against lumber liquidators.

Thanks.

Question: what are pros and cons of floating, comparing to glue?

I will go to prosource and take a look at it, I have not heard of this store before. Thanks for the information.