Revolution Mills - La Costa - how to install the edge piece for the stairs?

[schumacher777]

I'm in the process of installing Revolution Mills LaCosta Flooring in my dining room and kitchen. I've installed it in the dining room with no issues, but now that I'm into the kitchen that has stairs that lead up to the floor. I'm at a loss of how the edge piece will "link" together with the flooring.

This is the piece that has the round-over. I've noticed a few things - one is that the thickness of this piece is equal to the thickness of the flooring. This piece does NOT have a pad as the other flooring does.

Here is the shot of the joining edge.

A picture of the top side...

Now the flooring that I would think fit into, which it doesn't looks like this:

I'm hoping that someone has experience with this brand/type of flooring that can help me.

1) Do I have the right edge piece or is this from another "brand" - when I got it, the guy that brought it thought it was, but this was back in November.
2) How to install this if it is? How can I get it to stay attached to the step and how can I get it to stay even with the flooring and not have a slight ridge?

I've called the manufacture and got a phone number for a rep - which I've called and left a message, but haven't heard anything from him.

 

[highup]

It's hard to tell from the picture that you sent of the profile of that molding. The image isn't real sharp but it looks like an overlapping type of trim. That would require shimming the trim up exactly to the point where overlaps the flooring.

 

[schumacher777]

Yeah, I know its kind of hard to see, which I was hesitant in posting about this. I think I was tired and had in my head that it was to be installed "this" way. Prior to posting this, I called the manufacture, which referred me to a Rep for the area. I called the rep and left a message. Which at this point I didn't have much hope to get help that way, so I posted on here. Later on in the afternoon, I called the rep again and he said without seeing it, he wasn't for sure, plus he isn't the rep for where I'm at, He was willing to help, but I told him I'd call the Manufacture again, which I did. This time I almost got the rep phone number, but they were on vacation! They asked where I got it and they checked, they didn't sell to them, but maybe it was Southwest Wholesale Flooring and gave me a phone number and hanged up. In no hope of getting help, I called, got transferred to a gentleman that explained how to check it, I wasn't 100% convinced, so I said I'd check and try it. Sure enough, it worked.

The reason - I was using the wrong SIDE of the flooring. The guy said to take the bullnose piece, lay on the edge of a table, and then "slide" the flooring into it. Sure enough, that is what I need to do - SO all that time I thought I'd have to figure out the spacing between one side to the stairs, turns out I just need to flip the install and I'm golden. Well, sort of. Now I have to figure out what type of railing my wife and I are going to use, once that is figured out, then things are good.

SO, basically, when things don't look right, flip it around and take another look, it might be backwards.

 

[highup]

Are there any marks on that trim that shows the manufacturer of the product and the part number?
I don't know that it's all that common to have to start the material on a factory edge, that's why I was wondering if it was an overlapping molding.

 

[C.J.]

Sounds like the OP got it figured out but I thought I would just throw this out there for the next person that runs up against this.

All the flush mount stair noses are designed to bump up to a planks factory edge, usually the tongue side. For basic box stairs, or even a small room, it’s no biggie but you would be crazy to base an entire house’s layout off of a stair nose. For example if you’re laying the main floor of a house and there will be a stair nose in a doorway to the basement, there’s no way I’m starting at or even basing my layout off of that stair nose. Besides the door jamb is prolly crooked anyway. In this case you will have to fabricate an edge on your plank that will allow it to interlock with the stair nose or find another way to somehow make a smooth connection.

For laminate or hardwood you would make a crisp clean rip on a plank then route a groove into it and insert a spline. Now the groove of the stair nose will mate up with the spline and give you a flush connection. You can do this with LVP but it is a bit trickier because LVP, or god forbid SPC, is usually thinner than a laminate or an engineered floor. Less room to route a groove and insert a spline as well as I have yet to see LVP splines out there. Doesn’t mean you can’t make one though. Routing a rabbit on both the plank and LVP would be another way to accomplish the same goal of getting a flush connection. You will lose the micro bevel on the plank if it has one but you’re going to have to give up something in order to achieve a flush joint and not start your layout from the stair nose.

That’s a lotta tools and techniques just to achieve a flush connection so for some maybe starting at the stair nose or using a lap over stair nose is the answer. Starting at the stair nose also dictates the direction your planks will run which may or may not jive with what direction you actually want them to run.