Most of the vinyls we get here are only 2mm
Looking at that link it could be 12ft wide?
Prefer sheet vinyl in wet areas as compared to tiles, less joins
Vinyls ugly out before wearing out
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Rotted subfloor, notched joist, & other problems that need repair
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Most of the vinyls we get here are only 2mm
Looking at that link it could be 12ft wide?
Prefer sheet vinyl in wet areas as compared to tiles, less joins
Vinyls ugly out before wearing out
I've been thinking about this more lately. I mistakenly thought the vinyl plank was 8" but it's 7". It should barely cover, but I might be able to get away with missing planks/gaps, etc under the washing machine and dryer. I know putting machines that can cause vibrations on top is not ideal but the mfr suggested using vibration isolation pads under the machines. With that in mind, I've decided I want to start in the southwest corner (bottom right in this pic) with the perpendicular doorway. If I go by instructions for the transition strip to leave a 1" gap (which will depend on what transition strip I end up getting) I will butt into the doorway ~2-1/2". With the door frame the first plank will need to be notched about 5-1/2" (leaving 1/4" expansion gap). I will have to cut out a hole a little larger than 2" for the ~2 drain pipe. I am also thinking of adding a square or rectangular floor drain. But that is something I will revisit later if I can find something that is not too expensive. The laundry pan I wanted to use is no longer available so I will go without it. I figure a square or rectangle will be easier to cut, but if push comes to shove I could use a round one.
This is the room layout. It's ~122"x94.5" but I'm sure walls aren't straight. I got 5 boxes (8 planks each). I need to figure out the best cutting pattern. I'm sure it will be easier to figure out once I lay it out in the room though. It's still aways off, but I wanted to get it straight in my head first to get a general idea.
This is the room layout. It's ~122"x94.5" but I'm sure walls aren't straight. I got 5 boxes (8 planks each). I need to figure out the best cutting pattern. I'm sure it will be easier to figure out once I lay it out in the room though. It's still aways off, but I wanted to get it straight in my head first to get a general idea.
I used to do a 1,2,3 or a 1,2,3,4 type pattern but anymore I just go with a random pattern because the 1,2,3,(4) type patterns seem to have a commercial look to them or the stairway to heaven look. Now if you picked a tile looking material, 1x2?, then I could see doing a subway or a 1/3, 1/4 offset. But for most wood looking products I think random is the way to go. You also use less material with a random stagger because you can utilize almost any if not all cut off pieces somewhere.
For your layout I would check to see if the 2 long walls are parallel then start on the inside wall and work towards the outside wall like you mentioned. Much easier to start off at the 4 doorways than to finish off at 4 doorways. It’s also much easier if you actually have the transition pieces prior to starting the install. Cut them and put them in place then mark where to start/ stop your flooring at. I always got pissed off when I had to make a separate return trip to install transitions and stair noses.
The drain pipe through the floor, I would put a butt joint right there and use my dividers to get a tight fit to it. Much easier to get a clean fit around it. 2” pipe I would cut a 2.5” hole. 1/4” all around then seal it up with silicone or something. Maybe even cheat it down to 2 3/8” or 2 1/4” depending on how comfortable you are with doing that.
You got this.
For your layout I would check to see if the 2 long walls are parallel then start on the inside wall and work towards the outside wall like you mentioned. Much easier to start off at the 4 doorways than to finish off at 4 doorways. It’s also much easier if you actually have the transition pieces prior to starting the install. Cut them and put them in place then mark where to start/ stop your flooring at. I always got pissed off when I had to make a separate return trip to install transitions and stair noses.
The drain pipe through the floor, I would put a butt joint right there and use my dividers to get a tight fit to it. Much easier to get a clean fit around it. 2” pipe I would cut a 2.5” hole. 1/4” all around then seal it up with silicone or something. Maybe even cheat it down to 2 3/8” or 2 1/4” depending on how comfortable you are with doing that.
You got this.
Thanks, CJ. I'm trying to remember the actual OD for a 2" pipe. I have a chart I put up on the plumbing forums...
https://www.plumbingforums.com/threads/true-sizes-for-abs-and-pvc-pipes.13196/So actual is 2.375". I want to keep it snug and maybe put some sort of flange around it at the floor level to cover any caulk. Most of the stuff in that area will be hidden behind the washing machine and dryer as well. Still trying to figure out if a floor drain is feasible. I would have to check for any slope, but I generally want to have something behind the machine so if there are leaks from the water supply lines, it will go down the drain. Which is why I was thinking of getting one of the longer rectangular drains. I'd need to figure out how to properly dump it away from the house and also make it so stuff can't crawl up into it from the outside. But that's a plumbing issue.
I do have awhile before my friend will be able to help me resume work on the reno, so hopefully Zamma will come up with something to match the mahogany pattern. I realized I was wrong about that being the one with bad reviews. It was some other brand, I think MD. There is already a wooden trim piece between the carpet and the existing floor. No transition piece from kitchen to hallway as the tenants broke it & installer didn't put one in (he didn't put in any transition pieces- but then, that wasn't on the "to do" list as we didn't know that much about flooring installations at the time). The hallway, bathroom, and laundry room all used to have the same parquet wood flooring as the kitchen but tenants absolutely destroyed it. Still undecided about what to use in the kitchen but the parquet there has been destroyed as well. My brother destroyed a great deal of it (leaving a bunch of leaking trash bags- and spilling a can of paint on the floor) and then the freezers defrosting after the hurricane did the rest.
Whatever it is will need to be pet friendly. I wonder if I can get an MSI product that is about the same thickness but maybe a different color (if it is not too expensive). Will have to be watching for a sale.
Mom just paged and wants food.
I do have awhile before my friend will be able to help me resume work on the reno, so hopefully Zamma will come up with something to match the mahogany pattern. I realized I was wrong about that being the one with bad reviews. It was some other brand, I think MD. There is already a wooden trim piece between the carpet and the existing floor. No transition piece from kitchen to hallway as the tenants broke it & installer didn't put one in (he didn't put in any transition pieces- but then, that wasn't on the "to do" list as we didn't know that much about flooring installations at the time). The hallway, bathroom, and laundry room all used to have the same parquet wood flooring as the kitchen but tenants absolutely destroyed it. Still undecided about what to use in the kitchen but the parquet there has been destroyed as well. My brother destroyed a great deal of it (leaving a bunch of leaking trash bags- and spilling a can of paint on the floor) and then the freezers defrosting after the hurricane did the rest.
Whatever it is will need to be pet friendly. I wonder if I can get an MSI product that is about the same thickness but maybe a different color (if it is not too expensive). Will have to be watching for a sale.
Mom just paged and wants food.
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I didn't get to complete my thoughts.
Looks like Zamma comes with galvanized metal track. Good thing I have a chopsaw. I'm trying to decide whether I should order a sample of the Lifeproof flooring to compare to my MSI mahogany planks or to just go ahead and get the Zamma transitions (probably a T-molding for the kitchen and a reducer for the bathroom & closet.
Lifeproof sample image:
The MSI heritage mahogany
MSI Trim:
Zamma shadow hickory trim:
Do you think it is worth getting the sample (particularly when it is not the same brand as the actual trim-- Lifeproof instead of Zamma)? I'm aware that the sample might not be fully accurate.
Looks like Zamma comes with galvanized metal track. Good thing I have a chopsaw. I'm trying to decide whether I should order a sample of the Lifeproof flooring to compare to my MSI mahogany planks or to just go ahead and get the Zamma transitions (probably a T-molding for the kitchen and a reducer for the bathroom & closet.
Lifeproof sample image:
The MSI heritage mahogany
MSI Trim:
Zamma shadow hickory trim:
Do you think it is worth getting the sample (particularly when it is not the same brand as the actual trim-- Lifeproof instead of Zamma)? I'm aware that the sample might not be fully accurate.
90% of the time that metal track gets tossed.
They’re a lot like the metal ones used for laminate floors. Pergo style transitions. They’re just not as tall because the transitions itself is not as thick. They work great if your transitions are perfectly flat. Problem is you can’t use them if your transitions have any angle to them at all such as transitioning to a taller surface. That’s when you have to glue them down.
Ahh. Ok. That's a very good point, CJ. I'll have to make sure the transitions are flat. Although, I suppose worst case I could use some caulk or something to make it flat/level if it's not but still screw down the track carefully. Or would that be a bad idea?
I was thinking about moisture barriers. I don't have one of those sensors to see how much moisture is in the floor and I was thinking I could lay down vapor barrier directly under the flooring- which would help in case there are any spills or pet messes.
I'm still trying to pick a good floor drain (on the chance we decide to do one). I want to put it behind the washing machine near the supply hoses. I'm debating whether to do a rectangular one or square one. Don't want it to be too expensive though.
I was thinking about moisture barriers. I don't have one of those sensors to see how much moisture is in the floor and I was thinking I could lay down vapor barrier directly under the flooring- which would help in case there are any spills or pet messes.
I'm still trying to pick a good floor drain (on the chance we decide to do one). I want to put it behind the washing machine near the supply hoses. I'm debating whether to do a rectangular one or square one. Don't want it to be too expensive though.
I have a question about installing the flooring up to an exterior door. An installer form a youtube video showed how he removed the threshold to put flooring underneath it. I asked a question about more details on that and he told me you can do that with older doors but the newer ones have threshold built in.
I have one of the newer doors.
Since I have to replace the sill and my old door (and door frame), should I wait until I put the floor in to put the new door in? or should I put the new door in first (making sure it is high enough to clear the new floor)?
When I install the floor, should it go under the threshold or go flush to it? Or have a gap?
I have one of the newer doors.
Since I have to replace the sill and my old door (and door frame), should I wait until I put the floor in to put the new door in? or should I put the new door in first (making sure it is high enough to clear the new floor)?
When I install the floor, should it go under the threshold or go flush to it? Or have a gap?
