Sealer for loose layed taped seams

[highup]

Attempting a reinstall of some Tarkette sheet vinyl. It was installed loose lay with the vinyl seam tape (S-875)
Instructions says seams must be "chemically sealed". Does that mean a two part sealer or a latex sealer....or either?
The floor got soaked and then dried. The vinyl was installed in two pieces with an 11 foot seam across the room. Because of water issues, the seam was cut open about 1/2 inch away from the original seam, then they pulled off of the seam tape. The material was rolled and folded in not so nice a way. Even taking it outside and laying it in the sun for 10 minuted hasn't removed all the distortion.
The seam and material have some distortion because of the way the material was removed and stored (folded), so I'm just trying to save it.
Anyway, when the instructions say "use a chemical sealer" does it mean "a sealer" or a two part sealer. Latex is a chemical, right?

 

[Jon]

This is what you need probably and the only type of seam sealer we seem to have in NZ

https://www.lookfloors.co.nz/product/315/werner-muller-seam-sealer-type-a-132-gram

I have kinda given sealing the joints as this sealer does not stick to half the vinyls nowdays

 

[highup]

Looks like you need a space suit to use that stuff.
.......do you wear a space suit when sealing seams Jon?
https://www.lookfloors.co.nz/cdn/im...erner-Muller-Type-A-Seam-Sealer-SDS-28102.pdf
Instantly remove any contaminated garments.
Avoid contact with the eyes and skin.
Wash hands during breaks and at the end of the work.
Do not eat, drink or smoke while working.
·
Breathing equipment:
In case of brief exposure or low pollution use brea
thing filter apparatus. In case
of intensive or longer
exposure use breathing apparatus that
is independent of circulating air.
·
Recommended filter device for short term use:
Filter A
·
Protection of hands:
The glove material has to be impermeable and resistant to the product/ the substance/ the preparation.
Selection of the glove material
on consideration of the penetration times, rates of diffusion and the degradation.
Solvent resistant gloves. (THF)
·
Material of gloves
The selection of the suitable gloves does not only depend on the material, but also on further marks of quality
and varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. As the
product is a preparation of
several substances, the resistance of the glove material can
not be calculated in advance and has therefore to be checked prior to the application.
·
Penetration time of glove material
The exact break through time has to be found out by the manufacturer of the protective gloves and has to be
observed.
·
As protection from splashes gloves made of the following materials are suitable:
Fluorocarbon rubber (Viton) - FKM
Nitrile rubber - NBR
Butyl rubber - BR
·
Eye protection:
Safety glasses
·
Body protection:
Protective work clothing
Body protection must be chosen de
pending on activity and possible exposure.
·
Limitation and supervision of exposure into the environment
Do not allow to enter drainage system, surface or ground water

 

[Jon]

high maybe you could try rolling your vinyl up on a core for a few days to see if the vinyl gets a better shape?
Nah we tough down this way. I don't know where they get all that garbage from. It takes a few seconds to seal a join.PC rubbish gone to far
That seam sealer dose not like humid damp days as it goes white. It does come right though but it used to actually work on the vinyls until they got these new surfaces
If you put the pin down into the seam one has to watch it doesn't lift one side of the seam creating a ridge when dry
Have a look at the type C seam sealer

https://www.lookfloors.co.nz/produc...-sealer-type-c-132gram-cold-weld-vinyl-liquid
It says for poorly cut seams. Its like a toothpaste as compred to the type A which is like a water

I use this on external mitres of those domestic plastic backed vinyls Hides the white backing

 

[Floorist]

Don't know about Tarkett, but back when I was laying a lot of Flexitec loose, they changed seam procedures constantly. From tape only to latex adhesive to acrylic adhesive and then back again. Got where I would call the tech line before every job and ask what they wanted then. I would write it down with the date and the name of the tech person I spoke to. CYA.

 

[Nick]

Tells you they didn't know what sealer worked .. Installer bites it ..

 

[highup]

I was looking for an image of Tarkett's backing. I think that's what the material is but not sure.
The material is probably 10 years old and the backing was stained from water seeping from the foundation. The material has shrunk a little bit and it feels slightly harder (less pliable) than what I feel it should be. The seam cut the guy made isn't very pretty. I'm gonna heat the seam and try to flatten it a little better. Hopefully after relaxing over the weekend it will have layed a tiny bit flatter. ........it's gonna be what it's gonna be. It's a 12 by 23 foot basement used mostly for storage. I told them a rug would look pretty nice over the seam.
I was serious and they agreed.
Anyone have a photo of Tarkett's backing? I tried looking on the internet and couldn't find anything.

 

[Floorist]

A friend told me tonight, he is trying to take up some lino in his basement that was glued down in 1978. I told him "good luck".

 

[Nick]

I did a crapet rip up years ago in a Hospital.. Two guys pulling a 3" strip at a time .. They had to glue it with some type of exposy ..

 

[Jon]

I was looking for an image of Tarkett's backing. I think that's what the material is but not sure.
The material is probably 10 years old and the backing was stained from water seeping from the foundation. The material has shrunk a little bit and it feels slightly harder (less pliable) than what I feel it should be. The seam cut the guy made isn't very pretty. I'm gonna heat the seam and try to flatten it a little better. Hopefully after relaxing over the weekend it will have layed a tiny bit flatter. ........it's gonna be what it's gonna be. It's a 12 by 23 foot basement used mostly for storage. I told them a rug would look pretty nice over the seam.
I was serious and they agreed.
Anyone have a photo of Tarkett's backing? I tried looking on the internet and couldn't find anything.

Anything for you
The photo with the blue in the corner is the oldest I had laying under the house

 

[highup]

Thanks Jon I appreciate that. I see it says EU. I wonder if the USA stuff is different, or was different 10 years ago.
This job is a half hour out of town and the backing was so stained I didn't really notice the words Tarkett. I was assuming Tarkett because it's one of the very few companies that had a colored or printed design on the backing. I can't think of other backings with a printed backing. I never installed a lot of these glass back vinyls. When they came out seems most was made by IVC.

 

[Jon]

Thanks Jon I appreciate that. I see it says EU. I wonder if the USA stuff is different, or was different 10 years ago.
This job is a half hour out of town and the backing was so stained I didn't really notice the words Tarkett. I was assuming Tarkett because it's one of the very few companies that had a colored or printed design on the backing. I can't think of other backings with a printed backing. I never installed a lot of these glass back vinyls. When they came out seems most was made by IVC.

Pretty sure Tarkett started in Sweden which were ours came from then maybe once Tarkett got a name the vinyls got made in different countries. I seem to remember Tarkett being one of the first companies to get rid of the asbestos backings.
Wonder if you guys using this releasable type glues lets the vinyl shrink on the joins?
I have seen these types of vinyls down for years without the joints shrinking but we use acrylic type glues which I imagine are a more dead set glue? Hence why I usually do not bother sealing with that sealer. It just peels of most of these newer surfaced vinyls

 

[highup]

Pretty sure Tarkett started in Sweden which were ours came from then maybe once Tarkett got a name the vinyls got made in different countries. I seem to remember Tarkett being one of the first companies to get rid of the asbestos backings.
Wonder if you guys using this releasable type glues lets the vinyl shrink on the joins?
I have seen these types of vinyls down for years without the joints shrinking but we use acrylic type glues which I imagine are a more dead set glue? Hence why I usually do not bother sealing with that sealer. It just peels of most of these newer surfaced vinyls

This one isn't glued, just taped with floating type tape.
Here's the scenario. I'm rethinking all this now.
The original installation was lets say, 10 years ago. The seam was cut freehand, floating tape was used and then the seam was sealed.
At some point there was water leakage, so the seam was cut open to remove the flooring........... The seam was not cut at the the exact seam location, but 1/2 inch away. That has/had me baffled.
The material was then rolled up, the floor dried and it was relayed using floating tape again, and some ORCON carpet seam sealer.
The original seam was not torn apart when the material was pulled from the tape. I suspect that the correct sealer was used upon the original installation and it was fully welded together.
This is why the seam was cut in a different location. ...1/2" away.
.........OK, so once more, there were water issues. This is why I'm there now.
This re-cut seam pulled apart "cleanly" when the home owner pulled the two halves from the tape. I suspect now it pulled apart because the wrong sealer was used.

The seam that was cut the second time is terrible, but fits back together.
I may just use the wrong sealer again.......... because if this second seam I am dealing with was sealed with ORCON, then there is residue on the seam edges and the correct sealer will have compatibility issues. The guy needs ceramic tile down there.

 

[Floorist]

Maybe the homeowner cut the second seam.

 

[Jon]

I was just wondering in general terms not in your case this time high

 

[highup]

Looks like George Washington cut it.

 

[highup]

I was just wondering in general terms not in your case this time high

Called the customer today. He didn't notice Tarkett on the backing, but he said there were words saying "do not glue perimeter" or "do not perimeter glue"
Does Tarkett's backing say that?

I looked again and your second photo looks like it. The guy also added there are 3 or 4 inch squares on the backing. He said it was a high end product. It has a lot more durable feeling surface than IVC stuff.

 

[Jon]

Nah we do not have writing with words like that on as we never loose lay, well I haven't loose laid a vinyl for years. There were different brands of vinyl with different words on the backing. Would not be allowed on a wood type floor due to floods from washing machine etc
Don't forget we cut the vinyls into the skirting boards with NO gaps. Gaps and one doesn't get paid

 

[highup]

Nobody here loose lays here either. This one's 10+ years old.
I think I'll take some of that Tarkett seam sealer in case I decide to cut 3/4 of an inch out of the seam area to get some good edges to seal. Pattern won't match but being a wood herringbone pattern, it might look OK.

 

[Floorist]

Called the customer today. He didn't notice Tarkett on the backing, but he said there were words saying "do not glue perimeter" or "do not perimeter glue"
Does Tarkett's backing say that?

I looked again and your second photo looks like it. The guy also added there are 3 or 4 inch squares on the backing. He said it was a high end product. It has a lot more durable feeling surface than IVC stuff.

Yes, there was some that said "do not perimeter glue" back in the days that was popular.