I'd welcome advice on how to install a stepdown bullnose to complete a wood floor installation in my kitchen and breakfast area. Because of other issues I had to start in the middle of the floor and work in both directions.
The floor is 4"wide, 3/4" prefinished hickory that is attached with staples over a vinyl floor over 1/4" luan over 1" nominal OSB. A full unfinished basement is below. The bullnose molding is 3-1/2" wide, 3/4" thick hickory with a 1' thick bullnose and a groove in its back edge.
The bullnose molding needs to be installed on two adjoining edges: one is 10' long and parallel to the floor boards, the other 5' long at a 45 degree angle to the parallel edge. This will result in an inside mitered corner for the bullnose.
On the 10' length the groove of the molding will connect to the tongue of the parallel floor boards. On the 5' length the ends of the floor boards are cut at a 45 degree angle. I've chiseled a 4" long groove in the end of each one to accommodate a slip-tongue for connecting to the bullnose molding.
The distance between the installed floor boards and the edge of the subfloor is 1-3/4". Add another inch+ for the actual thickness of the riser from the sunken floor to give a total distance to the outside edge of the riser of 2-7/8". The top of the riser is exactly 1/4" lower than the vinyl floor meaning that the main part of the bullnose molding will bear on the vinyl while 1/2" of the bullnose will rest on the riser.
Now my questions:
1. I imagine I should glue the slip-tongues into the ends of the floor boards with Titebond or similar woodworking glue? Should I staple through the slip-tongue?
2. At the miter joint I was thinking of adding grooves and using a slip-tongue to keep the surfaces flush. Is that necessary? Should I also glue that joint?
3. What kind of adhesive, if any, should I use to glue the molding to the vinyl? If it won't adhere to the vinyl, what would you suggest?
4. Is there any way to have a solid installation without having to face nail? I'd love not to have to do that as the molding is very "clear. But if I need to, what kind of fasteners would you suggest?
I'd welcome your assessment of this plan and answers to any or all of these questions. Thanks!
- Bernie
The floor is 4"wide, 3/4" prefinished hickory that is attached with staples over a vinyl floor over 1/4" luan over 1" nominal OSB. A full unfinished basement is below. The bullnose molding is 3-1/2" wide, 3/4" thick hickory with a 1' thick bullnose and a groove in its back edge.
The bullnose molding needs to be installed on two adjoining edges: one is 10' long and parallel to the floor boards, the other 5' long at a 45 degree angle to the parallel edge. This will result in an inside mitered corner for the bullnose.
On the 10' length the groove of the molding will connect to the tongue of the parallel floor boards. On the 5' length the ends of the floor boards are cut at a 45 degree angle. I've chiseled a 4" long groove in the end of each one to accommodate a slip-tongue for connecting to the bullnose molding.
The distance between the installed floor boards and the edge of the subfloor is 1-3/4". Add another inch+ for the actual thickness of the riser from the sunken floor to give a total distance to the outside edge of the riser of 2-7/8". The top of the riser is exactly 1/4" lower than the vinyl floor meaning that the main part of the bullnose molding will bear on the vinyl while 1/2" of the bullnose will rest on the riser.
Now my questions:
1. I imagine I should glue the slip-tongues into the ends of the floor boards with Titebond or similar woodworking glue? Should I staple through the slip-tongue?
2. At the miter joint I was thinking of adding grooves and using a slip-tongue to keep the surfaces flush. Is that necessary? Should I also glue that joint?
3. What kind of adhesive, if any, should I use to glue the molding to the vinyl? If it won't adhere to the vinyl, what would you suggest?
4. Is there any way to have a solid installation without having to face nail? I'd love not to have to do that as the molding is very "clear. But if I need to, what kind of fasteners would you suggest?
I'd welcome your assessment of this plan and answers to any or all of these questions. Thanks!
- Bernie