Hello...I would like advice on how to prepare a sunken concrete floor for a floating system laminate wood floor. The room is 16 x 26 and the center of the room has sunk about 2 3/4 inches in an area about 16x16 feet. The outer perimeter is fairly level and it is the center that cracked and settled. House was built in mid 60's, so I am hoping that the settling has stopped.
We removed the glued down carpet which was glued to those small tiles held on by the black adhesive...which we remove and cleaned the concrete with bean e do. Our original plan was to fill the floor with Ardex Self Leveling, but it was way too expensive. Next was the possibility of removing the concrete and pouring a new floor. Again, too expensive.
The concrete company suggested to taper scribe PT 2x4's and glue and nail to the floor , then cover with 3/4 wood and then install the laminate. These joist would taper from about 1/2 inch to the 2 3/4 dip then back to the edges about 1/2 inch thick. Then I would use the Ardex 15 to level the edges. Then cover with plywood or OSB. They suggested to first cover the floor with black tar then lay a plastic vapor barrier.
I can't go thicker than 3/4 in wood on the floor at the edges because it is a walkout with a slider door for an exit. PS: Floor is dry and never gets water.
My question is how do I attach the taper joist to the floor with the plastic, (I can use a concrete nail gun
for the thicker parts, but I think the 1/2 inch parts will split)
Next question is can I use OSB instead of plywood? Should I use T&G?
How should I install the plywood/OSB to the floor where it is just on the concrete?
Should I use PT Plywood where it is laying over the concrete?
Can I mix OSB and PT plywood together?
This seems to be very labor intense, but financially an affordable solution.
Thanks In advance!
We removed the glued down carpet which was glued to those small tiles held on by the black adhesive...which we remove and cleaned the concrete with bean e do. Our original plan was to fill the floor with Ardex Self Leveling, but it was way too expensive. Next was the possibility of removing the concrete and pouring a new floor. Again, too expensive.
The concrete company suggested to taper scribe PT 2x4's and glue and nail to the floor , then cover with 3/4 wood and then install the laminate. These joist would taper from about 1/2 inch to the 2 3/4 dip then back to the edges about 1/2 inch thick. Then I would use the Ardex 15 to level the edges. Then cover with plywood or OSB. They suggested to first cover the floor with black tar then lay a plastic vapor barrier.
I can't go thicker than 3/4 in wood on the floor at the edges because it is a walkout with a slider door for an exit. PS: Floor is dry and never gets water.
My question is how do I attach the taper joist to the floor with the plastic, (I can use a concrete nail gun
for the thicker parts, but I think the 1/2 inch parts will split)
Next question is can I use OSB instead of plywood? Should I use T&G?
How should I install the plywood/OSB to the floor where it is just on the concrete?
Should I use PT Plywood where it is laying over the concrete?
Can I mix OSB and PT plywood together?
This seems to be very labor intense, but financially an affordable solution.
Thanks In advance!
