What did you do today?

[Tom Picciani]

We finished leveling floor. Then I put a level on floor and found a ridge. Carpenter is coming over to take out a shim.

 

[highup]

Too much to be sanded?

 

[Tom Picciani]

Too much to be sanded?

I think so. Mike will be back tomorrow. I have 2 humps. When measuring with laser, the ridges are 1/8 high and the areas next are 1/8 low. Removing a steel shim from each should fix it

 

[highup]

You're getting pretty close.

 

[Tom Picciani]

I think so. I’ve got 2 spots causing 3 ridges. Still might need to use some leveling compound. Not sure yet

You're getting pretty close.

We lowered a few joists. The floor didn't come down as quickly as we liked. Had to 'persuade it' with a 2 lb maul. Pulled some areas down with deck screws. Some spots remained off the beam downstairs. Went to Lowe's and got heavy angle brackets. Screwed them into 5 joists and pulled them down to the beam.

Still had a few areas that were high, but not too much for the belt sander. Problem: Couldn't find the dust bag. Taped a vacuum cleaner hose to the outlet and took care of 3 areas. Looks pretty good.

I'll go over the entire floor tomorrow. But I think I'm there!

 

[highup]

Filler is legal to use Tom.

 

[zannej]

I'm trying to get myself awake enough to get up, find my pipe cutter, & tackle the plumbing fix for the jet pump. I hope it's not too hot already.

I messed up putting my medicine in my daily pill box & accidentally put one of them in twice for today's dose. Noticed I had the wrong number of pills & identified the duplicate. Had to look at each of the pills to figure out which one it was. At least I don't have to take as many as my mother does. I'm sure that will change over time.

My brother found that he can get his medicine filled for cheaper at his workplace's pharmacy than he can at Walmart. It was $80 for one of his meds at Walmart but was something like $4 at the casino.

My cat doesn't want me to get up because he wants to snuggle. Last night when I was heading to my room, he jumped across the room from a piece of furniture to land on my shoulder & wanted me to carry him to my room. Normally he meows at me and I move closer so he can climb up, but I didn't take the hint when he meowed, so he jumped. If he's on the floor he'll stand on his hind legs and grab my leg & meow for me to pick him up. He's a skinny cat, but he likes to be carried around on my shoulders. Now if he could just figure out how to steer me, he'd be set.

 

[Tom Picciani]

Ok. Belt sanding is done. I have a low spot in the middle of the room 1/8 - 3/16 deep. It’s 2 feet wide and 8 feet long. I laid some planks across it at various positions. Didn’t get any deflection when I pushed on it. The couch will sit there anyway s I’m not bothering to fix it.

Just have to snap lines and mark spacing around thresholds and I’ll be laying planks

 

[highup]

Couch will keep it from moving. You could drop a couple strips of #15 roofing felt in the depression if you find it hard to sleep.

 

[Tom Picciani]

i started. It’s tricky to get the seams to disappear. Learning curve. Im stopping. Can’t get enough light in room to see the joints well enough.

 

[highup]

Do you have a tapping block? I just see a pull bar. I also don't see a stop nailed to the floor to start the row straight......or is one of those rows fastened?
Rock the plank downward a few times until it engages and lays flat, then tap the planks together with the tapping block. You will notice a minuscule amount of movement as it finishes engaging. When it locks, it will lay 'flatter' You will know it when you see it.
Don't rock the plank down in one quick movement.

 

[Tom Picciani]

Do you have a tapping block? I just see a pull bar. I also don't see a stop nailed to the floor to start the row straight......or is one of those rows fastened?
Rock the plank downward a few times until it engages and lays flat, then tap the planks together with the tapping block. You will notice a minuscule amount of movement as it finishes engaging. When it locks, it will lay 'flatter' You will know it when you see it.
Don't rock the plank down in one quick movement.

I have 2 tapping blocks. One is about 8 inches and the other is over a foot long. I don’t have them fastened yet. Wanted to get all the gaps out first and make sure it’s in position with my lines.

 

[Tom Picciani]

I got a troublesome seam together. Had to tip the board to get it to seat. Will work on it later. Might want to do another row or two before fastening down

 

[highup]

Is the trouble with the end joints or the long joints? If you were going to use a board to start against, that needs to be in place and screwed down because after starting the second row, you need something to tap against.

" Wanted to get all the gaps out first and make sure it’s in position with my lines."

Are you using a scrap row, screwed down to start against? That row is screwed down along your chalk line as your starting point. If you have that temporary row screwed down and aligned, there is nothing to check........ you just start. First two or three rows are the hardest because there is no mass accumulated yet.
Once you have two rows in place the entire length, lay a row of boxes on the first row as weight to keep it from bouncing around. If you are locking in, or actually connecting the first row of flooring into your temporary row, no weights are needed.

One other thing about the lighting. It helps to have good lighting when tapping in the end joints. Good lighting makes it easier to see when the joint gets tight. I like somewhat directional lighting, that is, lighting coming mostly from one end of the room.

 

[highup]

Like this. Screw down the starting row straight with your chalk line. That has to be done first so you can tap the second row against the first row. I usually begin the second row centered on the first row. That's not what they say to do.......... but the rule isn't set in stone.
'They' say use the scrap from one end as the starter row too, but I don't do that on every row because it can set up a pattern of staggered end joints across the room and every 3rd, 4th or 5th row will line up with a previously installed row. Do like they say and it will be a bit more efficient material wise........ just stagger a row if you see that pattern effect occurring, then go back to their method until it happens again.
My sketch shows a solid continuous starting row. That doesn't have to be as long as shorter pieces are aligned with your chalk like. It's just easier to align longer sections of temporary material accurately along the chalk line.

 

[Tom Picciani]

Is the trouble with the end joints or the long joints? If you were going to use a board to start against, that needs to be in place and screwed down because after starting the second row, you need something to tap against.

" Wanted to get all the gaps out first and make sure it’s in position with my lines."

Are you using a scrap row, screwed down to start against? That row is screwed down along your chalk line as your starting point. If you have that temporary row screwed down and aligned, there is nothing to check........ you just start. First two or three rows are the hardest because there is no mass accumulated yet.
Once you have two rows in place the entire length, lay a row of boxes on the first row as weight to keep it from bouncing around. If you are locking in, or actually connecting the first row of flooring into your temporary row, no weights are needed.

One other thing about the lighting. It helps to have good lighting when tapping in the end joints. Good lighting makes it easier to see when the joint gets tight. I like somewhat directional lighting, that is, lighting coming mostly from one end of the room.

The first row is not scrap. I am going to use some pieces from the story board and put them at each joint and at the ends. I’ll screw those down.

I need a half inch gap at the fireplace tiles. Going to cut a piece of scrap and put it in gap to push against.

The problem area between the 2 rows had a lip. Tipping it got the seam to lock and the tapping block was all I needed.

I have 2 rows straight now. Going to attach scrap pieces and screw them down. It looks pretty good from what I see.

 

[highup]

Ready to roll it seems. One thing I use to tap in the end joints without damaging them is a scrap of material. Cut it the width of the joint, and then about 3-4 inches wide. Sand or trim off a tiny bit of the underside locking joint so it fits loose enough not to engage forcefully into the joint you will be tapping against. It will fit the joint better than a tapping block and spread out the load out better when you tap.

 

[Tom Picciani]

Ready to roll it seems. One thing I use to tap in the end joints without damaging them is a scrap of material. Cut it the width of the joint, and then about 3-4 inches wide. Sand or trim off a tiny bit of the underside locking joint so it fits loose enough not to engage forcefully into the joint you will be tapping against. It will fit the joint better than a tapping block and spread out the load out better when you tap.

Thanks. Already made that. But the upper side seems mire robust. So I’m just touching it with the tapping block and it seems to be working. The end joints are a little tough. Tricky to line them up then go 6 feet away to use the pull bar or tapping block.

Row 4 has one piece to go. No joints line up with each other so far.

I think I’ll use a full plank to start row 5

 

[Tom Picciani]

Oh, forgot to mention that my dog left me a disgusting mess on my Lazyboy couch. I think he had a seizure. He’s had them before. He’s fine though. So I’m a little behind schedule because of a cleanup in aisle 4.

 

[highup]

Thanks. Already made that. But the upper side seems mire robust. So I’m just touching it with the tapping block and it seems to be working. The end joints are a little tough. Tricky to line them up then go 6 feet away to use the pull bar or tapping block.

Row 4 has one piece to go. No joints line up with each other so far.

I think I’ll use a full plank to start row 5

Install a plank, then tap to lock, then install the next plank as close as possible, then tap into place, then attach a small scrap as shown............ this is a must do. It aligns the open side so the end lock is forced to go straight in instead of flopping around.