Those butcher blocks with under-mount sinks make me pucker. If it’s a porcelain sink it’s a little bit tighter. Gimme a copper washer and I’ll give you back a penny. Prolly a Canadian penny but still a penny. I love the challenge, the brain is working, but one wrong move and we’re out a few hundred bucks plus a days worth of labor and whatever time it takes to get new product. That can add up. Never mind that crap, I just don’t wanna hear it if I do blow it. Isn’t that what we’re all really trying to avoid? You know how it goes, one wrong move and that’s the story you’ll have to listen to every Christmas until the day you die. Back in ‘10 or maybe ‘11 I got some dirt in a vinyl seam and I’ll be damned if I didn’t hear about that shit for a solid 5 friggin years. Never mind the fact that the customers were pissed off before I even knocked on the door AND I told the boss I didn’t wanna do the job because I knew it wasn’t gonna end well. Too bad, I did the job, I got dirt in the seam and I never heard the end of that shit until I finally left the state in ‘16.
Here’s one I did with Corian, I musta measured and remeasured a bunch of times to get it just right before I set the countertop and cut out the sink n stove openings. I like to leave maybe 1/4” overhang to route flush after it’s all said and set in place. On the butcher blocks that fluff room jumps to 1/2” because the jigsaw blade can go wonky while cutting through 1 1/2” of material and I can’t risk hitting the sink. I’m ok with leaving more material but when routing 1 1/2” of solid wood, there’s a lot going on there and routers can jump. 1/2” by 1 1/2” is a lot of material to route off. You ever had a router jump? I have and it clenches me right up. Don’t laugh cus you’ld pucker too! I’ll throw the router before I let it bite me so if you’re holding the shop vac nozzle you better watch out cus a hot router with a big bit might be coming your way.
This is where the oversized bearings come in. It’s either that or I fasten shims for my first pass, who knows, maybe that is the answer. I’m still working on it before I dump 2 bones on a bit. Anyway, I put on an oversized bearing on my router bit for my first pass. This takes off all the inconsistent crap and leaves me with a consistent 1/4”? of material that needs to be removed. Now I put on the regular bearing for the bit and do a flush trim pass. When I have a consistent amount of material to remove the router performs in a consistent, predictable way and is much easier to control. Then when that’s all said and done I’ll remove the blue tape from the sink and make a last final pass that will completely flush me out with the sink.
I’m working my way up to shear bits and spiral bits but finding one that cuts 1 1/2” makes them a bit more spendy. Such is life, right. Palm routers won’t cut it for removing that much material so here’s router #6 for me that I got yesterday. I like the Bosch 1617, something about the wood handles and parts are readily available on ereplacementparts.com. That and if it ain’t broke, buy another one. It’s just one click away and was only a buck fiddy, before tax, which means $169 or something like that. So much to do and so little time to do it.