Working with "New Age" Softer Carpets

[RickyRugDog]

I have been having a difficult time cutting the seams in these newer, softer types of carpets (Tigressa, smart strand etc.) You know, the type that's 150 yds, but the roll diameter measures 1'3" before you take it out of the plastic. I'll start to row run a seam with my store bought (Roberts?) row runner, or my purple knitting needle, then work my way through my toolbox (different gauge knitting needles, awl, the new crain runner that resembles a comb). Nothing works like it should & it's driving me INSANE!! The row will either curve, unravel tufts, or just not go anywhere. Putting these things together ain't no picnic either. They have to be 100% backings touching, because if your knife slipped while cutting it & threw you out 1/32 you'll see that! I'm super patient when it comes to seams, because I enjoy the payoff of the satisfaction from a good looking seam when I'm done...every day! But I'm reduced to using a straight edge for all of the plush & frizzes. And if i'm working with a loop pile, my eyes are crossed at the end of the day. Not that I'm against using a straight edge, I'd just like to hear other peoples recommendations, experiences, or advise. With more & more customers buying this stuff, I'd like to know if there are any other ways of handling it. Thanks,
Rick

 

[DarisMulkin]

Being an old dog that used to use hook knives I sometimes can cut one from the back using my hook knife in this case its a Crain knife. They can't be sharpened as sharp as a slotted blade and it will follow much better. You might try that. But if all else fails-straight edge the SOB.

Daris

 

[rugaddict]

i have encountered similar frustration with lots of the loop piles --a lot of times it turns out to be that brands version of a zipperless product rather than just straight rows----the mills use a crossover stitch to keep pulls to a minimum---my choice there is to row cut one side and then use my row cutter to trace cut the other---certainly speeds up the production

 

[DarisMulkin]

i have encountered similar frustration with lots of the loop piles --a lot of times it turns out to be that brands version of a zipperless product rather than just straight rows----the mills use a crossover stitch to keep pulls to a minimum---my choice there is to row cut one side and then use my row cutter to trace cut the other---certainly speeds up the production

But if you can row cut one side why can't you the other? You can work out the curves and such.

Daris

 

[Floorist]

I just charge twice as much for those. Then I can take longer on the seams.

 

[Ernesto]

Being an old dog that used to use hook knives I sometimes can cut one from the back using my hook knife in this case its a Crain knife. They can't be sharpened as sharp as a slotted blade and it will follow much better. You might try that. But if all else fails-straight edge the SOB.

Daris

I do the same as Daris on loops. From the back side, get yer knife between some loops at the edge and pull up on the carpet with one hand and similtaniously pull with the knife of your choice.
On cut pile I've felt your pain many times. Most often I resort to a fine point bic pen that empty of ink. For some reason it works for me, maybe it has something to do with the ball point?

 

[highup]

I have been having a difficult time cutting the seams in these newer, softer types of carpets (Tigressa, smart strand etc.) You know, the type that's 150 yds, but the roll diameter measures 1'3" before you take it out of the plastic. I'll start to row run a seam with my store bought (Roberts?) row runner, or my purple knitting needle, then work my way through my toolbox (different gauge knitting needles, awl, the new crain runner that resembles a comb). Nothing works like it should & it's driving me INSANE!! The row will either curve, unravel tufts, or just not go anywhere. Putting these things together ain't no picnic either. They have to be 100% backings touching, because if your knife slipped while cutting it & threw you out 1/32 you'll see that! I'm super patient when it comes to seams, because I enjoy the payoff of the satisfaction from a good looking seam when I'm done...every day! But I'm reduced to using a straight edge for all of the plush & frizzes. And if i'm working with a loop pile, my eyes are crossed at the end of the day. Not that I'm against using a straight edge, I'd just like to hear other peoples recommendations, experiences, or advise. With more & more customers buying this stuff, I'd like to know if there are any other ways of handling it. Thanks,
Rick

Instead of a knitting needle, try a 6" or 9 inch drywall knife. Round the edges slightly with a stone. The sharp edges of a good spreader will hang up on the loops and straight yarns too.

Insert the drywall knife (spreader or what you want to call it) into the carpet at one end. Rock the drywall knife rapidly back and forth as you slide it down the row. You have to go really slow. Rocking the 6 inch drywall knife to and fro as you slide it down the row opens up the carpet pile better than a knitting needle. It also opens it up wider so it stays open longer.
I use this same method and cut the actual seam using the 6 inch or 9 inch drywall knife as my straightedge to cut against. 6 inches at a time......... slide the spreader/knife into the row, then make a cut........... slide it 6 inches forward, and make a second cut......... and so on and so on.

Makes more sense I'm sure if I could show it.

One other idea that works is laying a carpet tube under the seam you are about to trim. The carpet will conform slightly to the curve of the tube and that makes the rows part much better than if it's laying flat on the floor. This method would probably work better with a knitting needle.

That new soft stuff sucks sometimes.

 

[DarisMulkin]

Also another thing that works sometimes is turn your row cutter around backwards with the blade up and try running a row. See saw motion may help out.
Does the carpet by any chance have a zigzag edge? Count how many rows it zigzags and that should be the honey spot.


Daris