8 gauge masonry nails for tack strip

[Eben]

I'm aware that many people simply pound masonry nails through tack strip into a concrete floor, but for some kinds of completely cured concrete, the floor is just too hard and pounding the nails in, even with a percussion device, just doesn't work. In this case you have to drill pilot holes.

My question is this: Does anyone make masonry nails that are tight inside a 5/32" hole? 8 gauge would work well, I think, but I can't find short fluted masonry nails in 8 gauge. The reason for the 5/32" diameter hole is that a 5/32" bit seems to be the smallest you can get with an SDS or SDS-Plus shank, and standard 9 gauge masonry nails are not tight in a 5/32" hole. I'm having to use Tapcon screws instead, and they're expensive.

Another alternative would be a 1/8" bit, but these don't seem to be available with an SDS shank, and I don't think such a bit would be durable--I'd try it, though, if I could find one.

 

[rugaddict]

there is nothing better for stubborn cement than aluminum drives---the ones i know well are made by crain---different guages avalable that need different pilot holes---everything else is a joke

 

[DarisMulkin]

I just finished putting down almost 400 ft of tackstrip today with an 1/8" bit. I have probably done close to 5000 ft with the same bit. The trick is let the drill do the work and don't force it. Most people want to lean on the drill.
As far as nails the aluminum work well but I prefer fluted steel nails that fit into an 1/8' hole. You would need a truck to pull them out. I do like the aluminum for for my metal strips though.
I just use a hammer drill.

Daris

 

[Ernesto]

I usually just use 1/2 in stubbies. It's a learning curve with them. Tap them down to the CC then one hard wack, Another hit will pop them loose. But I also use the Crain aluminum drives when all else fails.
Oh, try the new PAM glue gun too. I love mine.

 

[Nick]

I use the 1/2 in stubbies to, Plus i PL 400 the sticks .