Hot Knifing

[Ernesto]

I see quite a bit of floating vinyl plank jobs with zero gaps and buckling in most cases on inspections, course I'm not allowed to solicit repairs on them. But just got one off my floorsavior.com website. So called GC/handyman installed a click to tight, like 800sf of it.
So I figured I could hotknife the perimeter easier than using any vinyl or razor knife.
Anyone ever try one? I might just buy one just to check it out, they run from 12 bucks to 30. They are also available at hobby stores.

NCE 180 ELECTRIC HOT KNIFE 110VOLT

http://www.lfishman.com/index.jsp?p...ss=search&qdx=0&ID=,National.Carpet.Equipment

 

[havasu]

I would think a Multimaster Oscillating cutter would work quite a bit faster with less stink and smoke.

 

[Ernesto]

Hav, I was thinking the same thing initially. I'm thinking the friction may smoke it up a bit as well. Dang, guess I shoulda picked up a piece to test.

 

[highup]

How about dry ice and a cold chisel?
Hot knife might work in corners. The tool looks a bit 'dainty' for flooring work, especially with the type of material you have to work with.

 

[rugaddict]

straight edge---utility knife---box of blades---upper body strength

 

[Incognito]

How about the toe kick saw?.........not so sure what kind of blade would work but obviously that's the KIND of tool, given the right kind of blade that would be ideal.

For sure you'd want to play around with some scrap pieces to see how the vinyl reacts to the blade.

 

[Ernesto]

How about the toe kick saw?.........not so sure what kind of blade would work but obviously that's the KIND of tool, given the right kind of blade that would be ideal.

For sure you'd want to play around with some scrap pieces to see how the vinyl reacts to the blade.

Never needed one yet but certainly would do the trick.

 

[DarisMulkin]

I bet Highs lowdowner cutter would work great for that.

Daris

 

[highup]

I bet Highs lowdowner cutter would work great for that.

Daris

It would if you could install a saw type blade on it instead of a diamond blade and make a specialized base plate for it. .....but with a saw blade on it, it would cost Ernesto an arm and a leg..................... if it ever got loose from him.

I made a tool to do what he needs by using a really old Crain undercut saw. I made a base plate out of Pergo so the saw could be placed against the wall without damaging the sheetrock. I think I could cut a gap of slightly less that 1/4". The depth was easily adjustable so you didn't cut into the underlayment pad. Tool has long since been put to rest.

 

[Ernesto]

Truthfully I'm shying away from any toe kick saw. A little over kill and missing toes.

 

[highup]

Truthfully I'm shying away from any toe kick saw. A little over kill and missing toes.

Wait another two months and that have the customer turn off the air conditioning for 48 hours ..........then cut it with a butter knife.

 

[Incognito]

Never needed one yet but certainly would do the trick.

I never used one either but I got one from the Azusa Swap meet for $35 and I'm eager/anxious to use it. It sounds a little worse for wear and tear but I tried it out at home on some 3/4 ply and it buzzed through it easy enough.

I wouldn't pay much more than $50-$75 as there's no real need for it in commercial.

 

[havasu]

Good lord. I use to patrol that swap meet on Sunday mornings! Talk about lots of reports!

 

[Ernesto]

Well the building is under construction and he was not advised of the temp requirements, go figgure. Sun beating through sliders and picture windows is making it buckle even worse. Waves all over.
I have not heard back since I threw him some numbers. It was more than his handyman/GC charged him for install.
If I cut it now without AC seeing it is 108F it would shrink so much when the AC is cranked quarter round might not be wide enough.
The manufacturer told him to rip it up and replace. Which kinda po'd me since I do their inspections. They should have had me out there to make some denero. Cheap ass manufacturers.

 

[Nick]

I'm having the same issue trying to acclimate with 5" maple . The sun is spiking the R/h in the afternoon . and dropping it at night .

 

[highup]

Well the building is under construction and he was not advised of the temp requirements, go figgure. Sun beating through sliders and picture windows is making it buckle even worse. Waves all over.
I have not heard back since I threw him some numbers. It was more than his handyman/GC charged him for install.
If I cut it now without AC seeing it is 108F it would shrink so much when the AC is cranked quarter round might not be wide enough.
The manufacturer told him to rip it up and replace. Which kinda po'd me since I do their inspections. They should have had me out there to make some denero. Cheap ass manufacturers.

This afternoon, I looked at a click together Shaw plank floor and I'm guessing right now as to the causes of the buckling that this floor has. Heat from sunlight is doing it.
I'm wondering if that's what a solid vinyl plank floor does when the sun heats it in just one spot. Laminates are strong enough to move the furniture that resides upon them............ meaning that if the laminatew want's to move , it will.
With thin vinyl planks, the heat would allow it to warp and move upwards because it's not stable enough nor strong enough to move the furniture....... so instead, the furniture becomes the locking point and the planks expand upwards from the heat and buckles.

 

[highup]

I'm having the same issue trying to acclimate with 5" maple . The sun is spiking the R/h in the afternoon . and dropping it at night .

Is the logger adding to the confusion?

 

[Nick]

No , It has been very helpful.

I know what times of the day it spikes , and when it drops .

 

[highup]

Wouldn't it be fun to have a logger with real time data that you could view from a distance, any time that you wanted?

 

[Nick]

It be more fun to sub it out , and go play Golf .