I like how you snipped and folded the corner. I think that way is almost a better way because the corner is rounded. A mitered corner will be sharp. I’ve had a couple jobs where I installed bamboo baseboards. You wanna talk about a sharp ass miter, that sum bitch will cut you its so damn crisp. Imagine stubbing your toe on a corner
I would take the shaft of a screwdriver and run it up and down the miter to blunt it.
That blade is prolly the 10” equivalent to my 12” so it will definitely work for your needs. Now let’s get to making it work. Prolly the simplest thing would be to flip the metal upside down so it’s up against the fence and the bed. Then I would put a piece of wood on top of that. If you’re worried about it kicking, clamp that shit down and keep your hands clear. Depending on your saw, you may want to have a piece of wood up against the fence then the metal then another piece of wood to sandwich all that mess together. Clamp and pray, don’t forget your safety glasses.
As far as why the metal is kicking, my unscientific answer, or maybe it IS scientific, is it has to do with the angle that the blade is striking, making contact with, the metal at. There’s plenty of teeth so that’s not it. Imagine how the metal will react if you were to just chop cut it vs if you were to pull the head all the way out then lower the head and slide the blade back into the workpiece. That’s what I’m talkin about.
I don’t have a 10” saw but my Dewalt 7.25” slider is a kickin mofo. Cutting metal or plastic transitions on that saw scares me because it’s almost guaranteed it will kick. Then there is the fact that the fence on that saw isn’t all that much either. That’s a plywood blade but you get the idea, if there’s nothing there for support, something is gonna go flying. I’ve also had pieces hook and catch and get jammed in the saw. It makes a loud noise and the whole shop knows exactly what you did. Blades with more teeth do make a difference but I just don’t trust that saw for those cuts.
The second picture you can see a 2x3 and a piece of 1.5” angle aluminum on the bench behind the saw. How the metal and wood are on the bench is how I clamp them to my saw. If I’m worried about tear out behind the workpiece, I may put another piece of wood behind all that mess to keep things in place then clamp it all up before I make my cut.
I don’t have crazy kicking issues when I use my 12” slider. Bigger saw, bigger blade, different angle of attack? I don’t know but it doesn’t kick like my other saw does.
Sandwich and clamp your workpiece and you’ll be fine. If you expect and plan for the kick, you’ll eliminate the kick.
Almost forgot the best part, hopefully you’re plunging the blade into the cut in a steady and controlled manner. I had a guy that was doing some bamboo stair nose for me years ago and he couldn’t get a clean cut to save his life. Every cut was tearing out like a mofo. I didn’t know what he had for a blade so I went and bought a quality wood blade from a real shop so he could complete the job. He had a Bosch 10” miter saw and I remember the blade I got was maybe $120 10 years ago. I guarantee that blade will do the trick, right. So I get to the job site and give duder the blade. He changes it out and I’ll be damned if it isn’t doing the same thing on his next cut, just splintering real bad. So now I’m watchin him to see why it’s splintering and wondering what the heck. He would click the saw on and just mash the blade through the stair nose like a friggin tweaker or something. I saw that and I lost my shit on dude because I just blew a couple hours of my time and bought an unnecessary saw blade all because he couldn’t slow down and let the saw do the work.
