engineered hardwood and subfloor

we have "Armstrong" engineered hardwood on the kitchen floor and are going to extend this flooring into the family room. A "leveller" was used on the kitchen floor mainly to cover the heating wires of the radiant heat (which never really worked very well) and this same leveller was also used in the dining room too (no heating wire) to keep the two floors at the same level.
question: should leveller be used in the family room to keep the levels the same? should leveller ALWAYS be used under eng. hardwood? can some other underlayment be used? that flooring can't be attached right to the subfloor,right?

analog,

Is this Joe Walsh ? (Analog man)
I usually staple down engineered hardwood with a 18 or 20 gauge staple.
You could use a T molding where this floor meets the kitchen. You could use plywood underlayment to make the floors the same level.

Has it been determined if the floors are concrete or wood. I don't think stapler would work to well in concrete.

can some other underlayment be used? that flooring can't be attached right to the subfloor,right?

This statement made me assume we were talking about a wood subfloor. I could be mistaken

I bet the wood has been glued to the leveler

Ernesto said:

I bet the wood has been glued to the leveler

Click to expand...

the floor in kitchen and dining room is "floating". the subfloor is 3/4 ply

Ah well then use leveler or thin underlayment. The latter may be harder depending on the thickness. If connecting to the existing floating flooring then you should keep floating it, shouldn't be fastened to the substrate. A T-mold would be used.

Ernesto said:

Ah well then use leveler or thin underlayment. The latter may be harder depending on the thickness. If connecting to the existing floating flooring then you should keep floating it, shouldn't be fastened to the substrate. A T-mold would be used.

Click to expand...

I'm thinking "leveller" would be most appropriate.
question: instead of a "t-mold" between the two floors,would it be practical to remove some shorter planks from the kitchen side and "stagger" the planks so the dividing line wouldn't be apparent?

Need a pic. If you dont have a T&G to attach to then yes you need to pull some wood.

anyone have a recommendation for a good "floorist" around Colo. Springs?

If you can find a guy named Jeremy Shoning, he might know. I believe he is a member here.

I believe Jeremy is working for one of the manufacturers. Don't know if he takes on jobs in his spare time or not.

WOW , Theirs a name i haven't heard in years ..

Jerry??? Never knew his last name.

Yes , Who was that masked man ?

I'm still thinking of having the two floors "interleaved" (at the juction of the floors) Anyone think of potential problems? I really would like to avoid a "T" mold at the junction since this junction is probably 8 feet.