OSB Subfloor T&G Noise and More

[shubox56]

I'm looking to address a couple of issues:

1) Popping at walls
2) OSG sub T&G noise

#1) I live is a cheaply constructed townhouse built in 96 which gets noisy when the humidity drops like a stone each winter. With the carpet removed, I drove screws throughout most of the second floor (#8 X 2" every 9 to 12 inches) which eliminated some noises and created others. The predominate issue(s) after screwing seems to be popping at the walls in some locations and T&G rubbing noises in spots. The wall noise will be addressed by removing the baseboard and roughly 9" to 12" of drywall to provide full access to the entire wall baseplate. Once exposed, I'll drive screws through the baseplate into the OSB sub AND the 2X12 joists below. I'll also do a better job of securing the vertical 2X4's to the baseplate. Once satisfied that the popping noise has been addressed (test over the cold winter months into the early summer), I'll then install new drywall at the base and complete the mudding followed by the install of new base molding. I would prefer to rework the entire baseplate of a wall than driving isolated screws here and there through the drywall (toenailed) which didn't really help much. Sound like a reasonable plan of attack?

#2) I don't have a well laid out plan for the T&G noise. I don't have access below and sweeping powder of into the joints doesn't get the job done. I'm considering diluted PVA (3 parts water to 1 part PVA) squeegeed into the T&G seems to help with the bonding of the panels. Is this a reliable option? Has anyone here utilized this method? Any downside to the diluted PVA method like buckling during high humidity?

Many thanks!

 

[highup]

I think you got this figured out, but I don't think additional fasteners from the studs to the baseplate will help any.
Also, instead of messing up the drywall, just remove the baseboards, then, drive a 3 1/4" long screw right through the sheetrock, into the 2x4 plate, the underlayment and subfloor to pull the wall frame down, or the subfloor up to the plate. Do it every foot or so.
To hit the joist securely if needed, you might need a longer screw. You also might want to pre drill through the sheetrock and the 2x4 with a 6 inch long, 1/8" drill bit.
To hit the joist if it's really necessary, you might need to adjust your angle of attack.
I don't see a reason to mess up the drywall.
I thought a cutaway might help.

 

[highup]

I replied before you finished. Sounds like you tried what I described.
You might just need longer screws and a more accurate angle of attack to hit the joist, pre drill a 1 inch hole in the sheetrock below the top of the base. That might make it easier to jet the right angle to hit the joist.
.....a long shot is the joist is bouncing against a foundation support making a clunk sound and none of your efforts so far will fix that.
You'd need to go under and glue in shims.

 

[shubox56]

Thanks for the feedback. I may rethink the screw size and try the toenail method one more time. I was hesitant of going longer (screws) on the inside walls due to considerable plumbing in the area.

The outside walls suffer from more than just low humidity. The 2 small bedrooms most effected are south facing and exposed to the sun ALL DAY. The insulation is adequate for the area, but it plays hell with the windows and walls (heat up). When they heat up, that too, will cause a pop at the wall without even walking on the floor. I defiantly need to do a better job of tying everything together. And it doesn't help that I suffer from OCD which leads me to fixate on every sound. LOL

The other issue, the T&G seams also bugs the heck out of me. I'm hoping that gluing the seams with the diluted PVA will resolve some or all of the issue, but hesitant to begin without knowing the downside if any.

 

[highup]

Plumbing is probably hidden in the insulation and I'd expect it to be at least a few inches below the subfloor...
....this message will self destruct in 5 seconds in case I'm wrong
You could draw out the dimensions of the 2x4 plate, the underlayment and subfloor to scale to figure out the screw length you need using different angles to hit the joist.
See, OCD isn't a bad thing.
A squeak might be a wall plate to subfloor issue.
A clunk might be a joist to support issue.
I screwed through the plate to tighten up a wall plate issue at my uncle's rental. The squeak was gone but then it clunked. I'd stiffened up the wall to floor framing structure and that must have lifted the floor to wall connection upwards a miniscule amount to produce the minor clunking sound.

 

[shubox56]

It's always something, hum? LOL The same thing happened to me (kinda). I buried 2" screws on 90% of the upstairs flooring (a LOT of screws!) to pull the OSB flush with the joists to resolve creaks and such, only to create NEW problems. One thing for certain, if I ever move it will be a RANCH style home with a full basement with complete access to floors from below. I HATE 2 story structures as they age.

 

[shubox56]

So going back to the toenail, the baseplate is 1.50" and the OSB sub is .75, so countersinking a 2.5" deck screw should get the job done if driving the screw into the joist isn't really needed (from what I'm reading here). I have some Hillman Power Pro #9 X 2.5" deck screws that I can use, though bigger than I like. At the right angle, a counter sunk 2.5" will take me to the very bottom of the OSB sub.

 

[highup]

Too bad you're not sure of the plumbing.
Unless you have in floor tubing, the pipe locations should follow some sort of pattern from kitchen to bathrooms or laundry room.
Besides that, with 10" joists, I'd expect any pipes to be well below the subfloor.
You'd probably want to have a 6 inch by 1/8" drill bit to pre drill the screw hole.
I didn't measure this angle, but this is pretty much to scale.

 

[highup]

All my screws I buy are torx head screws out of a bin at the hardware store.
Phillips head... I'll just let Phillip use that kind.
If you can't get rid of noises tying the plate to the OSB, you may need to hit a joist. You'll have to locate the of course.

 

[highup]

This ought to help with plumbing concerns.
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgur...khPnd6M&w=300&h=238&hl=en&source=sh/x/im/m4/2

 

[shubox56]

Thanks for everything, highup!

 

[shubox56]

New thought regarding the T&G noise: will the addition of .25 underlayment help tie panels together and reduce the crunching noise at SOME seams?

 

[highup]

The 1/4" underlayment doesn't have any real structural value. It's just used to cover existing floors to give a new smoother surface to accept new flooring..... Or to bring a lower room up to the level of adjacent rooms.
This is a single layer 4 OSB floor?

 

[highup]

Has anything you've done so far helped much, or at all?

 

[shubox56]

I used a tie plate over a T&G seam that's making terrible noise which completely eliminated the sound in THIS spot. If I stay with carpet, you can't really feel the bracket with the carpet down. And that's with a fiber pad which is only a quarter inch thick. If I swap out for new carpet with a better pad, I definitely wouldn't feel it. That's what led me to question the installation of underlayment.

 

[highup]

Ok, here's another 4 you. A regular drill bit would work, a Forstner bit might work better..... then again, it might be too good.
I've done this before to stabilize these joints.
I've told customers there are no guarantees....
But it might be what you need.
Drill a half dozen 3/8' to 1/2 inch holes in the seams, then slobber carpenters glue inside each hole, and also into the wooden dowel that you'll be driving in there. The drill size or type needs to insure that the dowel fits snug, not just pushed in easy.
Space the holes an inch or maybe inch and a half apart. The center is squeaking, so no reason to go all the way across from joist to joist. If the joists are 16" apart, you probably only need a half dozen plugs.... and like I said, mainly in the center of the span, . Forget the first and last 6 inches like I showed here.

 

[shubox56]

I'll noodle that idea. That's not one I've seen before. Many thanks for the suggestions.

 

[highup]

I've done this with fluted dowels that you can buy in a box and also with the 3 foot dowels from the rack at the hardware store. Drill as cleaned of a hole as you can. A scrap of 3/4 inch board might make a good drill guide to steady the bit and make a nicer hole.
If you leave them sticking up you can trim them flush after the glue has dried.

 

[highup]

I'll noodle that idea. That's not one I've seen before. Many thanks for the suggestions.

I just call it sewing. That's nice looking OSB. Is it 3/4"

 

[shubox56]

Yep, .75 OSB.