Is it legal to unroll a poly backed face to face Wilton

[highup]

......then trim it net with the wall and staple it to the tackstrip?
The customer is installing the 3/4" pine base and door trim at some point in time anyhow. This product should never be sold.

 

[Floorist]

......then trim it net with the wall and staple it to the tackstrip?
The customer is installing the 3/4" pine base and door trim at some point in time anyhow. This product should never be sold.

Use roofing nails.

 

[highup]

Use roofing nails.

I'm thinking that the best option is to pattern the hallway, make every edge exactly 1/4" long, then take it to a sheet metal shop and use a brake to bend the 1/4" edges so they will fit into the tackstrip gully.

 

[Ernesto]

A little propane torch might help.

 

[highup]

A hair dryer didn't help much......... maybe a BIG propane torch?

 

[Nick]

Get one of those guns for removing paint .

 

[highup]

Get one of those guns for removing paint .

I found a better way..........hack it in.
This dark little 'L' shaped hallway is 14 by 7 at the longest and widest dimensions. 5 doorways and over one step. I seamed the two doorways where I installed new non woven goods. Seams came out fine as the carpet was similar in height.
The bathroom door was nap-lock metal backed by tackstrip.
In the master bedroom, I turned and tacked the woven and also turned and tacked the existing bedroom carpet against the woven. The bedroom carpet will be replaced in the future and by turning and tacking the woven, it gives options later down the road.
The other bedroom doorway got hacked together. The diagram shows what I did. The woven carpet is on the right and was stretched over the tackstrip and stapled directly to the floor. The green cut pile on the left was turned and tacked against the face of the woven.
The woven was cut straight and the edge and the back were sealed with ORCON seam sealer. I cut this carpet to the inside edge of the door so if needed, it can be re-cut if they ever replace the carpet in that small bedroom.
This bedroom carpet backing and pad are worn and not worthy of a seam anyhow. It turned out pretty well for what I consider hack work. It's not as lumpy looking as my diagram looks.
Gee, now all I have left are 14 stairs. :sick:
They are going to be out of town for a week so I can recover doing some more normal jobs before I go back.
I have about 9 hours into this hallway not counting my cutting time at the warehouse. Gonna tell the shop to toss this line of carpet because I have no idea whatsoever how to work with it. I'll tell 'em to sell it for area rugs only......... or find some other fool to install it.

 

[Kyure]

9 hours, 5 tie ins and a set of stairs. How did you figure up your labor charge.

 

[DarisMulkin]

Just take your hour and times that by what you want to charge. Last I knew here scale was like $36 per hour. Something like that. Incognito is union maybe he will fill you in.

Daris

 

[Floorist]

I always figure $40. Don't always get it.

 

[Incognito]

Just take your hour and times that by what you want to charge. Last I knew here scale was like $36 per hour. Something like that. Incognito is union maybe he will fill you in.

Daris

I have some friends who were working prevailing wage jobs around Detroit and the "package" is in the high $40's range. I have no idea what Oregon prevailing wages might be. I know San Francisco is way more than Los Angeles. An hourly CONTRACTOR rate should really include what we put into our union contracts.........travel expenses, health insurance, pension, vacation pay, apprenticeship costs.........blah, blah blah.

Can't imagine anyone who's really equipped and skilled working for much less than $50 an hour. The "package" for a union carpenter (includes floorlayers) in NYC for the highest level superintendent is now $100 an hour. That was big news a few years ago when the multi-year contract was signed. Out of that $100 the guy gets roughly half.........THEN Uncle Sam and the City and State of New York get their bite out of his pie. They have INCREDIBLE vacation, annuity and pension programs----BEFORE TAXES. . Slush Fund City for Big Labor (union management) but it beats the shit out of crawling like a Ni##er for $10-20 an hour.

A parking spot in NYC is probably $50 a day by now. Last I worked there I paid $21 per day. Reagan was President so it was a while back.

 

[Nick]

I was living on the Island when Regan was in office . I was paying $1,000 a month rent for a two br 9x12 basement apartment . non union installers were getting $2.50 a yd .

Good thing i was doing the bowling alley's .

 

[highup]

Just take your hour and times that by what you want to charge. Last I knew here scale was like $36 per hour. Something like that. Incognito is union maybe he will fill you in.

Daris

I've been at $35 for a decade.

 

[highup]

9 hours, 5 tie ins and a set of stairs. How did you figure up your labor charge.

Starting the stairs this afternoon. Customer went out of town to see doctors,
I charged hourly and will on the stairs too.

 

[highup]

Starting the stairs this afternoon. Customer went out of town to see doctors,
I charged hourly and will on the stairs too.

Gotter done did. What crap to work with............... but it will probably still look great 15 years down the road even tho it's polyester. I think it is so dense and thick it virtually can't wear.
The stairway walls were not even, nor parallel. 5 steps up from the bottom, the stairway narrowed 1 1/2" on each side. There was some 3/4" pine trim to fit to at that point. The stairwell walls were uneven in width even from the bottom of a riser to the top of a riser, by as much as 3/16" and one tread was out of square by 1/4"
Since this carpet is totally unforgiving to work with, it's really not much different that installing Formica or Brigantine. I patterned the stairs, in sections.
I made the pattern dead on exact, then cut one side of the pattern accurately, and cut the second side 1/8" to 3/16" short so it couldn't bind.
All cut edges were sealed with Orcon seam sealer.
I double stripped the risers, duct taped the synthetic pad nose (which was wrapped not waterfalled) and also stripped the tread sides in case they needed to be stapled.
The floral rose pattern soon became obvious on the beginning steps, almost repetitive on the first 3 treads..... nearly the same position on each tread.

OK, now that means all the steps need to look the same............ the pattern only shifted an inch so per step, so no way can I let the pattern slowly run amuck. Each short run meant re-orienting the pattern so it started nearly the same as the first step. This kept the roses relatively the same spot step to step.
Hard as this material is to work with, it ended up looking great.
I have over 18 hours (including warehouse cutting time) into these 14 steps, in large part due to the patterning of each short sections and the irregularity of the walls.
That comes to $630 plus pattern materials, duct tape, staples, sealer and add 45 minuted driving time for three days.
I'm betting the shop figured $7 per step and no Xtras.
14 steps at $45 a pop? ....Insane or not considering this isn't really carpet in the traditional sense?
My little sketch shows the 4 sections that made up my 4 patterned stair runs