Need some simple help before getting started

Discussion in 'Hardwood Floors' started by Bevo77, Feb 2, 2017.

  1. Feb 2, 2017 #1

    Bevo77

    Bevo77

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    I am really trying HARD to get my floors done before the Super Bowl. I purchased Timberclick flooring from Floor & Decor. I also purchases Bostik SingleApp. I am including a picture on my main hallway in my house. I did the best I could to represent my 2 questions.


    It the image "A" is a wall that's slightly off and not even. However the 2 walls on either side of it line up almost perfectly.

    The other issue is that "B"shows a space left over in the width of the hallway. Should I cut some thinner planks and put them closest to the walls?

    fig 1.jpg
     
  2. Feb 3, 2017 #2

    TOTRR

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    If this is a floating floor, move the flooring to the "B" wall, and make your cuts on the "A" wall. Be sure to allow for expansion. It is better to measure before and divide the flooring so there are not any extremely small cuts on either side. If it is a glue down, and already glued then your stuck with what you have.

    Mike
     
  3. Feb 3, 2017 #3

    Bevo77

    Bevo77

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    I'm going to be putting glue down but I've just floated them for the time being to get a feel for them. In these pics you may see a little better what I'm talking about. The staircase is whats off a little towards the back of it but then there's a wall divider that's flush again with the wall by the front door.

    I hope this makes sense. I can mark the pics if I need to.

    50782816948__33335BA3-1B74-4DB5-B9CB-638013F4F4D9.jpg

    IMG_3139.jpg
     
  4. Feb 3, 2017 #4

    highup

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    I wouldn't worry about the Superbowl deadline one tiny bit. Way to nice a floor to hurry.
    I'm taking that the short wall by the door is the issue and the staircase wall and the wall opposite it are parallel?
    Is this floor going into all rooms in the house? If so, you need to snap a line through this hallway and into other rooms to be sure that other rooms in the house, such as outside walls agree with (are parallel with) the layout in the hallway. I'd use that outside wall measurement as my true starting line. Make one measurement down near the front door, and another from that far room we see at the other end of the hallway.
    If it's just the hallway area, I'd probably scribe the boards to one wall instead of putting two smaller boards on each side if that's possible.

    Bevo77 hall arrows.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2017
  5. Feb 3, 2017 #5

    highup

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    The first image you showed didn't appear until after I posted my reply. I see what you're talking about.
    When doing these kinds of floors, don't try to start by using a full plank against a wall simply to make it easier. I'm betting you will need to cut every plank in the starting row.
     
  6. Feb 6, 2017 #6

    Bevo77

    Bevo77

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    I can't thank you guys for all the help. I've decided I'm going to float it into one room just to see how it looks and lines up. I'm very hesitant to start gluing down out of sheer fright of not being able to correct any errors once I start doing that. I've also learned that I don't think I can go by those walls for a straight line as I think one of you pointed out here. And all of that is my biggest concern. Making it appear as straight as I can.
     
  7. Feb 6, 2017 #7

    havasu

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    Every house has its faults. I'm not an expert but when I come across a crooked wall, I just try to make the most visible side of the wall the better cut. Once the molding is installed, nobody will notice and it will be your own secret.
     
  8. Feb 7, 2017 #8

    highup

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    How many rooms are connected to this hall, that will also have wood floors?
    Is that a concrete or wood you are going over?
    Here's a diagram of what I was suggesting for making the starting point accurate........ not your room, just a representation here.
    Say you measure out from the outside walls in the two rooms on the right 21 feet and hit the hallway.
    Snap a chalk line (shown in red) or nail a string to the floor keeping it about a half inch off the floor. The string must be tight. This chalk line or string is parallel with the outside walls, but this isn't necessarily where you must begin..... meaning that wherever you decide to start, measure from this line to align your starting row.
    If you are floating the floor and want to start from the center of the hall, here's something I have done on a couple of occasions.
    Carefully rip some 8 inch trips of plywood or particle board and nail them to the floor exactly on your chalk line. These temporary alignment boards are marked in brown on the drawing.
    When you begin laying the first row of wood, you now have something solid, stable and accurately straight to butt the first row against....... it will keep the boards from shifting or wiggling around as you add the next rows.
    Once you have the boards completed over to the wall, you can remove the plywood/particle board. You now have a perfectly straight mass of boards and can start working the opposite direction. Be sure your boards can be easily put together in either direction. Do not forget to add spacers along the walls as the instructions tell you....... leave them in place until the entire job is complete.
    This same procedure works if you are gluing the floor down.
    Send me a PM if you have any questions, and leave me your number. Some answers are quicker when spoken.

    Bevo77 hall and rooms chalk line or string 750.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2017
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  9. Feb 8, 2017 #9

    Bevo77

    Bevo77

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    Higherup I sent you a PM, and thank you ever so much for offering to give me some advice.
     
  10. Feb 10, 2017 #10

    highup

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    Being on concrete, there are a couple of other issues. Moisture is one of them. Concrete that looks dry isn't necessarily dry. It really ought to be checked. (measured)
    Another issue is the flatness of your slab. Most all floors require very flat surfaces, whether they are floated or glued. That needs to be checked out also with a good straight edge. The instructions will tell you the tolerance level.......... 3/16" to 1/4" in a ten foot radius. Something along those lines.
    You said this floor clicks/locks together, not a standard T&G.

    Maybe some of the other guys can chime in about gluing the floor down and how and how often to weight the floor where needed. Especially so on the starting row so it dries nice and even for when you add the rows next to the previously glued ones.
    I'm thinking each day when you end with a complete row weighting it lightly would help keep it flat and even for the next days continuation.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2017
  11. Feb 10, 2017 #11

    highup

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    I followed your link. Is this an engineered or a solid wood floor?
    Also, about the adhesive. I don't see Bostik Single app.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2017

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