Do you think that if I mixed this stuff with an acrylic add mix that it would hold together if it was exposed to winter elements?
Webcrete 95
- Thread starter Darol Wester
- Start date
Help Support Flooring Forum - DIY & Professional:
OK. I found the answer. No.
I missed this one Darol......... what were ya gonna put it on? I used it to cover some plywood on the carport 15-20 years ago and it's still holding up. I primed the plywood and also some OSB, then made a blotchy stucco like surface then primed and painted it with a couple coats of paint. Held up amazingly well for an experiment.
Reason was, at the roll-up doors in my new shop, the guy that poured the slab left it a tad up at the edge, which was causing the rain to flow in under the door. I tried grinding it, but too much work. I was thinking about building it up at that point to divert the water to the outside. Instead, I bought a product I've never seen before from the local flooring supply store. It comes in 12 foot lengths, is 4" wide and tapers from 1/4" to nothing from side to side. Glued it down with Geocel 4500 and problem solved.
That's slab curl. When a slab when screeded flawlessly flat it will curl on the edges as it cures and dries out.
I'm amazed that the people pouring slabs never address that issue and minimize it via whatever method is best for any particular pour........ and discussing that issue/probability with the home owner. Knowing that the edges will raise upwards as it cures, why not at least slope the wet cement downwards, at least in places where there will be door openings? Better yet, why not reduce the slab height one full inch where an overhead roller door will close so that rain water would have to literally jump up one inch to get inside? .......door opening is 14 feet wide, ..............so make a 14' or 14' 4" wide and 1 inch drop in height in the slab where the door rubber will set? ...........I'm just a kicker jockey, but those concrete guys ought to bring this stuff up with the owner.......... it occurs to some degree on every slab that was ever poured.
I have a friend that bought a place that has a 2-car metal carport. The slab was poured a foot wider than the carport's actual footprint. Carport is centered on the slab, so there's 6" of exposed concrete on all 4 sides. Water literally pours under all sides of the structure. I bet the concrete has nearly a 1/2" upwards curl on each side.
Warehouse at a Carpet1 store has the same issue with the 16' wide roll top door and the man door..... they both face west and when winter storms blow, they blow against the door........ the door with a 10" wide upward sloping (curled) concrete slab. Horrendously bad ion stormy situations when someone doesn't pull the door down tight so the rubber seals. I've seen water go 40 feet inside the warehouse.
I'm amazed that the people pouring slabs never address that issue and minimize it via whatever method is best for any particular pour........ and discussing that issue/probability with the home owner. Knowing that the edges will raise upwards as it cures, why not at least slope the wet cement downwards, at least in places where there will be door openings? Better yet, why not reduce the slab height one full inch where an overhead roller door will close so that rain water would have to literally jump up one inch to get inside? .......door opening is 14 feet wide, ..............so make a 14' or 14' 4" wide and 1 inch drop in height in the slab where the door rubber will set? ...........I'm just a kicker jockey, but those concrete guys ought to bring this stuff up with the owner.......... it occurs to some degree on every slab that was ever poured.
I have a friend that bought a place that has a 2-car metal carport. The slab was poured a foot wider than the carport's actual footprint. Carport is centered on the slab, so there's 6" of exposed concrete on all 4 sides. Water literally pours under all sides of the structure. I bet the concrete has nearly a 1/2" upwards curl on each side.
Warehouse at a Carpet1 store has the same issue with the 16' wide roll top door and the man door..... they both face west and when winter storms blow, they blow against the door........ the door with a 10" wide upward sloping (curled) concrete slab. Horrendously bad ion stormy situations when someone doesn't pull the door down tight so the rubber seals. I've seen water go 40 feet inside the warehouse.
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When I ordered the building, I assumed that they would run the metal over the side of the slab, creating a perfect rain guard. Wrong again. They use to do it that way, but apparently, some of the redheads/mounting bolts, were cracking the slab at the edge, so they went to the set back design, which raises hell for the owner. I ended up running a bead of the Geocel around it and that stopped the rain issue. They should have ran a bead under the bottom of the wall just before it stood up
Seems simple to me.
I worked with cement quite a bit in the 70's and we would always use an edger/finisher along all the perimeter areas and tilted it slightly outward. If you didn't, as soon as you stood your wall up, it would be tilting in and that doesn't fly very well.
Seems simple to me.I worked with cement quite a bit in the 70's and we would always use an edger/finisher along all the perimeter areas and tilted it slightly outward. If you didn't, as soon as you stood your wall up, it would be tilting in and that doesn't fly very well.
I tried to talk my friend into loosening all of the the bolts and using a couple of jacks and wedges or shims to get it 1/4 inch off the slab, to run some butyl rubber caulk under the metal, then removing the shims. His weighed about 4500 lbs and I think 2 or 3 bottle jacks would have worked to gently raise it one side at a time until the entire building was off the slab. I couldn't talk him into that, so I don't know if it would have been as easy as I think it would have been.When I ordered the building, I assumed that they would run the metal over the side of the slab, creating a perfect rain guard. Wrong again. They use to do it that way, but apparently, some of the redheads/mounting bolts, were cracking the slab at the edge, so they went to the set back design, which raises hell for the owner. I ended up running a bead of the Geocel around it and that stopped the rain issue. They should have ran a bead under the bottom of the wall just before it stood up
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A fiend of mine thought the same thing, but we were told the whole building has to go up at the same time or you run the risk of it collapsing.
Daris
Not with a 1/4" of lifting. If it was that wimpy the wind would knock em down. Start lifting in a corner and go clockwise........... counterclockwise if you live in the southern hemisphere. In one the size of Darol's, I'd think maybe 4 jacks on the long wall, and of course, alternate jacking so the entire side goes up evenly. You'd need to put a 4x4 across the entire width of whatever horizontal support you were jacking on to keep from putting a dent in the support. 4 jacks would only be lifting 600 to 700 lbs each. I guess it all depends on the strength of the metal connections where you are placing the jack.
Ya might not even need the shims, just caulk each section generously as you go.............. just jack it up high enough to accept the caulk.
I just can't imagine why they don't put a 1/2 inch diameter bead of butyl caulk centered under the framework as they begin assembling the structure.
In one the size of Darol's, I'd think maybe 4 jacks on the long wall, and of course, alternate jacking so the entire side goes up evenly. You'd need to put a 4x4 across the entire width of whatever horizontal support you were jacking on to keep from putting a dent in the support. 4 jacks would only be lifting 600 to 700 lbs each. I guess it all depends on the strength of the metal connections where you are placing the jack.Ya might not even need the shims, just caulk each section generously as you go.............. just jack it up high enough to accept the caulk.
I just can't imagine why they don't put a 1/2 inch diameter bead of butyl caulk centered under the framework as they begin assembling the structure.
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Nick
In Remembrance
Money .
You mean Pesos?
Nick
In Remembrance
I stand corrected .
Why not esplain the situation with the customer and offer the extra service and what the additional charge would be? It's a lot of caulk, but weigh the benefits against a dry garage vs a wet one.
Five 10 oz tubes @ $6 did mine.
