Making a rocking chair in my shop.
What did you do today?
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Boxes need a 6% grade to get decent mileage.
My Chevy gets 9.5 to 11, so it couldn't be worse that that. This one has a 4 speed OD automatic.
My Chevy gets 9.5 to 11, so it couldn't be worse that that. This one has a 4 speed OD automatic.
I like the woodworking shows on PBS. The Wood Wright is fun to watch, but like electricity myself. A few of the others do some fine woodworking using fancy joinery methods instead of pocket screws. I don't have much of a place to do woodwork. Love to have a decent sized shop to play in.
My 94 Ford van is a 302 4-spd auto, gets 14 overall. 18 on the hiway.Boxes need a 6% grade to get decent mileage.
I got in the habit of making kid's stuff. Doesn't take as much shop room and I have always had grandkids around to test them.
Thanks for the tip! Turns out HD does now carry the matching transitions. They are about $56 for strips & only come in 96" length. Rather pricey but it's a decent size & that could cover more than one doorway. The closet is only 24" wide. I think the bathroom will be about 32" or 34"- not sure on kitchen transition. But, hopefully one strip would cover the ones I need covered & the existing wood strip can be stained. The transition strips also use the metal track, but I don't know if they come with the trim-- for that price I would hope so.
That is so cool! I hope the customers know you appreciate them. I miss the stuff my late elderly friend used to make. He wasn't a carpenter by trade but it was his hobby. He once built a spinning wheel using instructions on how to do it the old way. His niece took it to an antique dealer to have it appraised (just to see if it could pass as an antique) & the guy thought it was very old & valued it pretty high. She told him after that it had only been made a few months before & he was impressed.I got paid $200 to adhere 4 pieces of some exotic wood onto the face of a TV base a customer made. I made it into a 2 day job.
He didn't want nails in the wood. The guy is as methodical as I am and we think much alike. I'm the only one he trusts helping him on oddball projects. Anyway, he designed and constructed an overkill 2x4 and plywood support to hold the new 70" QLED 100 lb tv.
He made the support overkill because it has a one inch thick black granite top and a shelf in the middle for a CD player, TV box and whatever else. Heavy tv and heavy top.
He made 4 pieces of 3/4" wood to fit his design and routed a bead on the edges to 'snaz it up a bit. He wanted me to figure out how to glue them. The wood is really heavy. Because of the progressive/regressive proportions of the panels top to bottom and what was available to put clamps on, it really needed two days to do this so the upper and lower panels could set before doing the middle parts.
.........Oh did I mention that he asked me if I wanted to haul off his old 70 inch TV? He gave me the manual. Taped inside was the Wally World receipt from 2012 ....$2400
TV works fine......... he bought the new QLED because he removed a huge tree and it brightened up the room causing reflection. QLEDS don't do that as much.
How'd I do Rusty? 3 or 4 hrs actual work, 3 hours lunch and watching glue dry and $10 for gas and glue.
Wondering if the TV can help me get another van.
I hope you can sell or trade the TV for something good. If you need a new used vehicle, you might want to check cargurus.com website. It lets you search all sorts of listings to see what is available. You put in the parameters (make, model, style, age, mileage, & price range).
Most of the parts for my mother's computer arrived-- except the chassis. Even a part she ordered late came early, but there was some delay with the chassis so it won't be here until next week. I went to the post office & it was so damn hot that it just sapped all my energy. I do not do well in the heat- which is why I need to get he parts ordered for my water well & get it all fixed up before it gets even hotter. I figured out what I'm going to do at least. Since I can't mess with anything before the shutoff coming out of the holding tank just yet, I'm going to have to use a 3/4" female socket x mip adapter to go into a reducer that goes from 1" female socket x 3/4 fip. From that, it will go to a 1"x1-1/4" reducing elbow. The 1-1/4" line will have a 1-1/4 socket x fip adapter to attack to a 1-1/4" stainless steel nipple. A 1-1/4" stainless steel corrugated hose will bridge the gap over to a 1-1/4" stainless steel street elbow (male threaded on one end female threaded on another). That will attach to a 5" long male threaded stainless steel pipe that threads in to the inlet side of the jet pump. I'm going to use pipe dope on top of teflon tape to make sure everything threaded is sealed up properly. That should stop the leaks. It will also bring the suction line down below the level of the pump so air won't build up. I did a mockup in Paint. Don't know why I have an extra coupling in there. LOL.
If the stainless steel pipe hadn't gotten so expensive, I'd replace all of it. If the outlet side ever has problems, I might replace the galvanized steel with stainless steel.
Attachments
I don't know about them, but I'd give the owners your phone number.
I've seen guys bring huge patterns to the warehouse....15 and 20+ feet long. Patterns made of red rosin paper. Patterning is one thing, but that paper can grow or shrink a lot................ so I think they are nuts.
I've seen guys bring huge patterns to the warehouse....15 and 20+ feet long. Patterns made of red rosin paper. Patterning is one thing, but that paper can grow or shrink a lot................ so I think they are nuts.
Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
Camping trip canceled. And lawn tractor chewed up the starter. Good week for me...
Baseboard is finished. Will let it sit a day or two before standing it along wall.
Still need to work on floor.
Baseboard is finished. Will let it sit a day or two before standing it along wall.
Still need to work on floor.
Amazon has starters cheaper than most.
I've been moving my flooring drawings, job layouts and job photos and other stuff to a new flash drive.
I've made layout drawings on most of my jobs and have taken photos of a lot of them too along with my tool creations/concoctions. Reliving my old jobs through those images, scares the daylights out of me. I'd never want to re do a lot of jobs because of their "one-of-a-kindness" I just don't have the nerves or stupidity to attempt some of the difficult stuff anymore. I've gone into a lot of jobs, crossing my fingers that I'd figure out how to do them.
I've made layout drawings on most of my jobs and have taken photos of a lot of them too along with my tool creations/concoctions. Reliving my old jobs through those images, scares the daylights out of me. I'd never want to re do a lot of jobs because of their "one-of-a-kindness" I just don't have the nerves or stupidity to attempt some of the difficult stuff anymore. I've gone into a lot of jobs, crossing my fingers that I'd figure out how to do them.
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I've read about using both Teflon tape and pipe compound. Never thought about which comes first.
I was thinking a braided flex line like for hot water heaters until I saw the diameter needed.
The flash drives are becoming so popular that some computer cases are being built to not be able to hold DVD players. Some software is now coming on flash drives or they want you to download it-- which sucks if they want you to download software to make internet work and you need internet to get it. The new solid state drives are pretty good from what I've heard. More stable & supposedly more reliable than old style hard drives.
Someone informed me that its best to put pipe dope on the threads first & then mash it in with the teflon tape- although the hose manufacturer suggested not using either with their hose bc it has rubber washers & they say it might damage the washers. Not sure how teflon tape would damage them, but whatever. LOL. The inside diameter of the 1.25" hose is 1.24" (per feedback from the mfr). Considering my pipe currently goes down to 3/4", the difference in size is not going to matter much. If I had more space, I'd do it all w/ solid pipe but there isn't enough room once I use the new larger fittings. There is only a small space between the pump & the pressure tank.
I'm thinking of getting a portable telescoping ladder that is lightweight so I can take it over to my friend's house & help him work on his roof. I could also use it in the house & it wouldn't give me trouble carrying. All the ladders I have are either too small to reach or too large to fit in my truck & too heavy for me to carry.
I'm trying to type with cats piled on me. It's not even cold, but I guess they wanted the comfort. They are also snuggling each other so it's adorable. Meanwhile, the dog has burrowed under a pillow to sleep. Instead of sleeping on the dog bed pillows, she sleeps under them. I'm waiting on my mother to page me bc I e-mailed her the plumbing supplies as well as a link to a whole house surge protector that can come in handy.
Someone informed me that its best to put pipe dope on the threads first & then mash it in with the teflon tape- although the hose manufacturer suggested not using either with their hose bc it has rubber washers & they say it might damage the washers. Not sure how teflon tape would damage them, but whatever. LOL. The inside diameter of the 1.25" hose is 1.24" (per feedback from the mfr). Considering my pipe currently goes down to 3/4", the difference in size is not going to matter much. If I had more space, I'd do it all w/ solid pipe but there isn't enough room once I use the new larger fittings. There is only a small space between the pump & the pressure tank.
I'm thinking of getting a portable telescoping ladder that is lightweight so I can take it over to my friend's house & help him work on his roof. I could also use it in the house & it wouldn't give me trouble carrying. All the ladders I have are either too small to reach or too large to fit in my truck & too heavy for me to carry.
I'm trying to type with cats piled on me. It's not even cold, but I guess they wanted the comfort. They are also snuggling each other so it's adorable. Meanwhile, the dog has burrowed under a pillow to sleep. Instead of sleeping on the dog bed pillows, she sleeps under them. I'm waiting on my mother to page me bc I e-mailed her the plumbing supplies as well as a link to a whole house surge protector that can come in handy.
If it's got a rubber washer, then the washer does the sealing, not the threads. Same with connections on the toilet or sink. If it has a rubber O-ring or a brass compression fitting, it's not supposed to have thread sealant because those threads were never designed to seal anything.
It would be like putting pipe dope on a garden hose fitting.
The PCV fittings need a sealant that is made for that type of plastic. I don't think Teflon paste is. Be sure to check that out.
It would be like putting pipe dope on a garden hose fitting.
The PCV fittings need a sealant that is made for that type of plastic. I don't think Teflon paste is. Be sure to check that out.
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Here ya go. Way more information I ever knew about this stuff.
http://www.lascofittings.com/threads
I think there's a lot of difference between hand tight and finger tight.
Since sealant or tapes that contain Teflon® reduce the friction, they will mask the loads and stress being applied during the tightening sequence. Because of the clearance between the root or valley and the peaks of the mating threads, there is a small spiral leak path that extends the length of the threaded connection. This leak path must be sealed, and this is the reason for thread sealant. Notice that I did not say lubricant. The lubricating qualities of thread sealants can cloak the resistance the installer expects when tightening a joint. This leads to over tightening to get the “feel” of being leak free, while exerting the excessive stress of wedging the male and female components together.
The procedure to make leak free joints that will not cause split fittings is simple! Make-up the joint to finger-tight, not hand tight, then tighten 1 to 2 more turns. This method will provide a joint that is leak tight without causing excessive stress within the connection. It is important to realize that pipe thread sealant; especially those made with Teflon®, lubricate the threads and mislead the installer to believe the joint is not tight.
Don't use Teflon tape, Teflon paste or pipe dope. Do use a sealant.
Teflon tape, Teflon paste and pipe dope is intended for metal pipe and fittings. Metal to metal fitting joints are more difficult to tighten than plastic; the surfaces tend to gall without the aid of such lubricants as Teflon or pipe dope. Plastic fittings do not need this lubrication.
http://www.lascofittings.com/threads
I think there's a lot of difference between hand tight and finger tight.
Since sealant or tapes that contain Teflon® reduce the friction, they will mask the loads and stress being applied during the tightening sequence. Because of the clearance between the root or valley and the peaks of the mating threads, there is a small spiral leak path that extends the length of the threaded connection. This leak path must be sealed, and this is the reason for thread sealant. Notice that I did not say lubricant. The lubricating qualities of thread sealants can cloak the resistance the installer expects when tightening a joint. This leads to over tightening to get the “feel” of being leak free, while exerting the excessive stress of wedging the male and female components together.
The procedure to make leak free joints that will not cause split fittings is simple! Make-up the joint to finger-tight, not hand tight, then tighten 1 to 2 more turns. This method will provide a joint that is leak tight without causing excessive stress within the connection. It is important to realize that pipe thread sealant; especially those made with Teflon®, lubricate the threads and mislead the installer to believe the joint is not tight.
Don't use Teflon tape, Teflon paste or pipe dope. Do use a sealant.
Teflon tape, Teflon paste and pipe dope is intended for metal pipe and fittings. Metal to metal fitting joints are more difficult to tighten than plastic; the surfaces tend to gall without the aid of such lubricants as Teflon or pipe dope. Plastic fittings do not need this lubrication.
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Thanks, Highup. The pipe dope I'm using is good for plastic and metal & plumbers said they use it on plastic threads instead of or with teflon. So, I'll think more on that when the parts arrive. Might go with teflon for the plastic parts & pipe dope for the metal (excluding the hose with the washer).
Anyone know if the transition trim pieces usually come with the track needed to install them, or is track usually purchased separately?
Anyone know if the transition trim pieces usually come with the track needed to install them, or is track usually purchased separately?
Teflon tape builds up thickness and messes up how the threads engage. The site says a plasic compatible sealant, not tape or "pipe dope"
Carpet installers don't follow the rules all the time so I wouldn't assume plumbers do.
The article is from the people that manufacture the plastic pipe. That's who I would trust.
The trims come with the track.
Carpet installers don't follow the rules all the time so I wouldn't assume plumbers do.
The article is from the people that manufacture the plastic pipe. That's who I would trust.
The trims come with the track.
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Grandson called me about one. He was taking out the trash and caught a woman in their yard vandalizing a car. He yelled at her, she assaulted him and threatened to bring someone back to beat him up. He called the police and then me. I beat the police there. I am pissed. She got away. Might be a good thing. I might have shot her.
Thanks, Highup. I wonder what sealant Lasco would recommend-- they don't seem to mention that & when I do a google search I find pipe dope or teflon tape. LOL.
The 5" long nipple, the elbow, & the hose all arrived but one of the pieces I need was backordered by the time Mom ordered it (she has prime so I figured she could get 2-day shipping) so they said it might not arrive until next month. I'm considering canceling it & just using something else. I'll have to see what they have at the store when I go to pick up PVC fittings. Maybe I can temporarily use galvanized steel or brass. I'm just hoping the old pipe won't completely splinter when I go to cut it. I'll have to be careful. I'll cut far away from the shutoff just in case.
I'm glad the trim comes with the track. The manufacturer didn't actually read the question & said something about calling a number to ask about maintenance- which had nothing to do with the question.
What would I use to cut the track? Some sort of metal snipers or something?
The 5" long nipple, the elbow, & the hose all arrived but one of the pieces I need was backordered by the time Mom ordered it (she has prime so I figured she could get 2-day shipping) so they said it might not arrive until next month. I'm considering canceling it & just using something else. I'll have to see what they have at the store when I go to pick up PVC fittings. Maybe I can temporarily use galvanized steel or brass. I'm just hoping the old pipe won't completely splinter when I go to cut it. I'll have to be careful. I'll cut far away from the shutoff just in case.
I'm glad the trim comes with the track. The manufacturer didn't actually read the question & said something about calling a number to ask about maintenance- which had nothing to do with the question.
What would I use to cut the track? Some sort of metal snipers or something?
