Peach glue for sheet vinyl

[highup]

Will 630 work for sheet vinyl flooring? It's some skinny Armstrong stock vinyl that a shop sold to a customer. The material feels pretty durable even tho it's pretty thin. They sold the Peach glue because it's a lot cheaper than the Armstrong. This job has seams in the kitchen doorways leading to a hall, and into a dining room. I'd like to we set it.
I recall using Peach glue on another installation years ago but for a different product.....possibly IVC that time, I don't remember for sure, but it was a thicker product than what I'm working with now. That other installation was done letting the adhesive dry first. That installation had no seams.

I made a small test patch last night before I left the job. I smeared a thin film of Peach glue on a scrap piece of underlayment and immediately layed the material into it and placed a light weight on it so that it would stay flat. I didn't have time to wait around and babysit the material.

 

[highup]

For what it's worth, I'm installing new 4x5 underlayment over everything.
I'm wondering if I should try to swap out the two gallons of 630 for a gallon of 288. The 288 is a lot more expensive. I have close to a gallon of Tarkett Q-bond which would probably be enough to finish the job.

 

[Jon]

High you cant use a latex based glue on these plastic/fibreglass backings as it makes the vinyl go yellow
I only use an archylic based glue on the vinyls I lay these days

 

[Incognito]

I'm sure it will work. I'd trowel it and then paint roll it and set it in tacky but but not completely dry.

That's an incrediby strong glue. Can't even imagine anything not sticking to that glue. As far as incompatibility I wouldn't be concerned other than to make a call to Henry's technical department to confirm the Peach glue is compatible with the specific product you're using.

 

[highup]

High you cant use a latex based glue on these plastic/fibreglass backings as it makes the vinyl go yellow
I only use an archylic based glue on the vinyls I lay these days

But what if it's discolored evenly?
I think the Armstrong S-288 adhesive is latex based....... not sure tho. Now ya got me thinkin' Good point by the way.

 

[highup]

I'm sure it will work. I'd trowel it and then paint roll it and set it in tacky but but not completely dry.

That's an incrediby strong glue. Can't even imagine anything not sticking to that glue. As far as incompatibility I wouldn't be concerned other than to make a call to Henry's technical department to confirm the Peach glue is compatible with the specific product you're using.

I called Henry and they don't recommend Peach Pro for vinyl flooring. He wouldn't even say if it would work for wet set.
I did a test yesterday laying a small scrap into the adhesive wet with no flash time at all. Seemed to stick pretty good after 24 hours, but you could pull on it and it will peel off the board clean. It stuck good tho. With that test alone, I'm sure it would work wet set with the right trowel notch........... whatever that is.

Henry has a couple other adhesives that are designed for vinyl backed sheet goods. There must be some reason they don't recommend this adhesive for sheet goods, but not sure why. Maybe it stays softer and doesn't cure to the same hardness as S288 or Henry vinyl back adhesives. Maybe like Jon mentioned about not being acrylic.
I talked to the shop and I'm going to exchange the Peach Pro for S288.
The 288 has exactly double the coverage rate as Peach Pro if you use their recommended trowel, so the excessive cost of 288 isn't really so.

 

[Jon]

I called Henry and they don't recommend Peach Pro for vinyl flooring..

This is why he said that glue wouldn't be recommended as compared to this glue on vinyl
Plastic migration
Now this glue would be okay
Notice the different wording

https://www.lfishman.com/index.jsp?...=mfr&process=search&qdx=0&ID=,Henry.Adhesives

I am still talking these plastic type backings

 

[highup]

Henry has 4 adhesives that work for sheet vinyl and other vinyl products. The top 4 on this page.......... I see redundancy.

http://www.wwhenry.com/content.aspx?id=130

 

[highup]

This is why he said that glue wouldn't be recommended as compared to this glue on vinyl
Plastic migration
Now this glue would be okay
Notice the different wording

https://www.lfishman.com/index.jsp?...=mfr&process=search&qdx=0&ID=,Henry.Adhesives

I am still talking these plastic type backings

That's the adhesive I mentioned in the topic. The Henry rep said he would not recommend that product for sheet vinyl with vinyl backs.

 

[Jon]

That's the adhesive I mentioned in the topic. The Henry rep said he would not recommend that product for sheet vinyl with vinyl backs.

Yeah but what I am saying is there are different numbers/names for their glues
for different types of vinyls

 

[Nick]

I would listen to Jon Hi, and what the manufacturer recommends . cover your back .

 

[Jon]

Our outfit used to have the old asbestos backed vinyl rolls standing a end and used to unroll a length, mark the yardage with a ball point pen/marker pen unroll more and repeat lots of times making each unroll. Not a problem
Now these plastic backed vinyls came out so they just carried doing the same
Three months later people were ringing up saying they could see numbers on their new vinyl floor
The ball point pen measurement had transferred to the surface
Red builders bog where the builder repaired holes in the floor would also show through later
Never had this type of thing with the old asbestos backed vinyls
When these new backed vinyls arrived nobody told the layers we couldn't use latex type glues we have been using forever until all the lighter coloured vinyls started going yellow
Thats when we found out we were using the wrong glue was it was the layers fault and we had to use archylic based glues even though there was none in New Zealand
Different types of glue from the glue manufacturers do make a difference

 

[Incognito]

This is why he said that glue wouldn't be recommended as compared to this glue on vinyl
Plastic migration
Now this glue would be okay
Notice the different wording

https://www.lfishman.com/index.jsp?...=mfr&process=search&qdx=0&ID=,Henry.Adhesives

I am still talking these plastic type backings

I thought that was the glue he was talking about. They make another Peach Glue? We used this glue mostly on vinyl backed carpet tiles. I've used it on VCT and some sheet vinyl-------homogeneous and felt backed.

 

[Incognito]

Henry has 4 adhesives that work for sheet vinyl and other vinyl products. The top 4 on this page.......... I see redundancy.

http://www.wwhenry.com/content.aspx?id=130

Those first four on that list would all work fine and Armstrong has similar redundancy. That's really about meeting the different levels of problematic backings and condirtions as well as meeting various price points to remain competitive.

You could pretty much always use epoxy and sand bag the job if money and time were no object.

 

[Jon]

I dont know your glues so I was just trying to point high in the right direction about the type of glue one has to use for different types of backings of flooring products these days
Even seen "latex" type glues used years ago ending up going slimy due to the reaction between the backing of flooring products and the glue.
Plasticizer migration

 

[highup]

I would listen to Jon Hi, and what the manufacturer recommends . cover your back .

That's why I called Henry. I know Peach pro is sticky as all getout, but If it doesn't behave well in wet set, has slower grab, or like Jon says........ possible discoloration issues. I called Henry to see what the real scoop was.
The shop told me the rep told them it works for vinyl backed sheet goods.
........so how come the rep doesn't know what I do? ....I'm just an installer dude.
When I was told the Armstrong 288 costs $80, and the Henry Peach pro cost $55.......... looks like a bargain, until you read that 288 has 2X the coverage if you use each manufacturers spread rates.
The shop traded me one gallon and one quart of S288 in trade for the two gallons of Peach Pro.
..............now, if I can just keep the trowel marks from showing through this super thin Armstrong vinyl. It's like thick wall paper.
It's low gloss, so that will help.

 

[highup]

Those first four on that list would all work fine and Armstrong has similar redundancy. That's really about meeting the different levels of problematic backings and condirtions as well as meeting various price points to remain competitive.

You could pretty much always use epoxy and sand bag the job if money and time were no object.

I'll have to check prices on all 4 Henry products for the heck of it.

 

[Jon]

I'll have to check prices on all 4 Henry products for the heck of it.

Buy the most, well one of the higher priced glues if you are going to do much vinyl laying as it works out cheaper time wise
When other layers tell me you cant do things like sticking up 2 mm vinyl on walls with Probond I say just watch, want to see this glue pull down those ends, just watch. The glue I use is one of the higher priced ones but it ends up with me doing the job quicker. A lot of layers who I meet have changed to Probond as they can see they arent really saving money with the cheaper glues
You pays for what you get
Re your thin vinyl, still talking these plastic backed vinyls, don't forget lots of them are meant to be loose laid so one doesn't need a big notch, I have been told I could use a flat trowel with no notches, but I think a small notch laid in wet then rolled with a domestic type broom works well. I use a larger notch around the walls so the vinyl grabs
Also we are neat fitting to the skirting boards soif the vinyl is that fraction tight the vinyl has a better chance of holding

 

[highup]

Buy the most, well one of the higher priced glues if you are going to do much vinyl laying as it works out cheaper time wise
When other layers tell me you cant do things like sticking up 2 mm vinyl on walls with Probond I say just watch, want to see this glue pull down those ends, just watch. The glue I use is one of the higher priced ones but it ends up with me doing the job quicker. A lot of layers who I meet have changed to Probond as they can see they arent really saving money with the cheaper glues
You pays for what you get
Re your thin vinyl, still talking these plastic backed vinyls, don't forget lots of them are meant to be loose laid so one doesn't need a big notch, I have been told I could use a flat trowel with no notches, but I think a small notch laid in wet then rolled with a domestic type broom works well. I use a larger notch around the walls so the vinyl grabs
Also we are neat fitting to the skirting boards soif the vinyl is that fraction tight the vinyl has a better chance of holding

Yup, small notch from the Armstrong trowel...... not much adhesive. 1/32" wide by 1/16" apart by 5/64" deep.
I figure better to drop it right in rather than give 10 minutes of open time.

http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/ima.jsp?itemId=50761

 

[Jon]

Yup, small notch from the Armstrong trowel...... not much adhesive. 1/32" wide by 1/16" apart by 5/64" deep.
I figure better to drop it right in rather than give 10 minutes of open time.

http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/ima.jsp?itemId=50761

As you are laying over a wood type underlayment you will not get any "gas" bubbles by dropping in wet so therefore the trowel marks shouldn't show
The underlayment you mentioned is a wood type isn't it?